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rebuilt afb 4 bbl

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  • rebuilt afb 4 bbl

    I rebuilt it and started right up but was dumping to much gas in manifold had black smoke and leaking around bottom. Took off and tore it apart again found a small gasket missing and replaced it. Floats are all properly set,blew all passages out, no leaks but when I start it up it runs about 3000rpm. I don't know what to do next. It ran and I could adjust it after the first rebuild but not after I went over it again. What went wrong? I am not a mechanic but have rebuilt a 2 barrel before successfully. Any and all opinions would greatly be appreciated, Thanks, Ron

  • #2
    in my post it did not show that I rebuilt a afb 4BBL

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    • #3
      Check for air coming in around all gasketed areas. You had to have tweaked something. Most often it is a leaky gasket in the carb or the flange where it bolts to the intake. Maybe metering rods but doubtful.

      PROUDLY MADE IN AMERICA

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      • #4
        I have an electric fuel pump that pushes 7.5-8.0 psi. the carter rebuild sheet that I got from another member off this sight says, it should only have 5.5 psi could this have anything to do with the high rpm?

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        • #5
          There are two idle adjustments fast and curb. When the choke closes it lifts a cam that hits a screw hidden down low by the throttle linkage. First check to see if you have that cam on correctly or that the actuating rod isn't sticking causing it not to drop down as the choke opens.

          Too much fuel pressure can cause problems but high idle wouldn't be one of them.

          ErnieR


          On its way to a 15.097 Island Dragway Great Meadows NJ Spring 2006.

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          • #6
            As you are looking at the throttle linkage side when I set the screw on the cam that is when it runs fast, but if I swing the cam up and have the screw behind it it idles fine and I have adjustment it at the

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            • #7
              I had assumed but should not have. It sounds like you have the fast idle cam in the wrong spot or is sticking and needs adjustment. The fuel pressure will cause a flooding condition. You will need to get a regulator on it and set it at no more than 5 psi.

              PROUDLY MADE IN AMERICA

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              • #8
                I'm a little confused by this last post. The fast idle cam only comes into play when the choke is closed and the car is cold. Once the choke begins to open the cam falls away and the idle is now set with the screw that is readily visible and in direct contact with the throttle linkage.

                Is your choke opening properly as the car warms? If it is but the cam stays up you have a choke to cam rod problem.


                quote:Originally posted by rkspence

                As you are looking at the throttle linkage side when I set the screw on the cam that is when it runs fast, but if I swing the cam up and have the screw behind it it idles fine and I have adjustment it at the

                On its way to a 15.097 Island Dragway Great Meadows NJ Spring 2006.

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                • #9
                  Thats right bige but I have seen where people had rebuilt them and for some odd reason the fast idle cam was hanging up and causing it to idle way too high. Most often it is due to installing wrong. I am guilty of it that is why I suggested it. We all begin and learn somewhere.

                  PROUDLY MADE IN AMERICA

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                  • #10
                    That cam is one thing I did not take out at rebuild, that is the way I got it. Can I change it if need be without taking carb off again? Here is some pics. the choke works fine a little faster idle slows down as it warms up, after warming if you take the throttle linkage and push back the cam slides up so the screw is behind it[im[img][/im[img][/img]g]g][/img]I don't know how to send pics!

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                    • #11
                      You 'almost' had the pic in there...almost!

                      Go in to the edit function and move your pic address over so it is 'in between' the brackets. Your pic looks like it was off one space.
                      it should look like this [ img]pic-address[/ img]....
                      Yours looks like it might have been off...like this [ img][pic-address/ img]

                      Hang in there! You'll get it!
                      HTIH
                      Jeff


                      quote:Originally posted by rkspence

                      That cam is one thing I did not take out at rebuild, that is the way I got it. Can I change it if need be without taking carb off again? Here is some pics. the choke works fine a little faster idle slows down as it warms up, after warming if you take the throttle linkage and push back the cam slides up so the screw is behind it[im[img][/im[img][/img]g]g][/img]I don't know how to send pics!
                      HTIH (Hope The Info Helps)

                      Jeff


                      Get your facts first, and then you can distort them as much as you please. Mark Twain



                      Note: SDC# 070190 (and earlier...)

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                      • #12
                        Ok so it sounds like it comes down as it warms up..... so look at the high idle adjustment screw that holds the high idle cam, How far is it turned in? That may be all you need to do is adjust your high idle. Try the pic again.

                        PROUDLY MADE IN AMERICA

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                        • #13
                          I still can't figure out[img]116.jpg[/img] the pics but this morning I put a fuel regulator on,did not try to start it. The choke did not close and the cam is the same now as after it warmed up last night in other words every thing is just as if it were running last night. If this pic does not show up. I will get my son to show me how. Thanks Ron

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                          • #14
                            javascript:image();[img]http://[/jpegimg]

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                            • #15
                              RK. Sent you e-mail..

                              nibbs53

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