Gas tank cleaning

[spqr_67]

I wanted to get everyone's feedback on the best method to clean/seal a tank that's been out of service for 40 years.
I "borrowed" the following from a Mopar website. Seems sound. Thoughts?

I remove the tank and rinse out with soap & water (Dawn or Mr. Clean works good). If there are any large holes you can repair them now by soldering or welding patches without blowing yourself up.

Next remove the float & sender unit, plug all openings good with cork or rubber plugs and duct tape, stand tank up on end with the filler neck straight up, fill with 1 gallon of Muriatic Acid and top off the tank with cold water from a hose. Let it sit for a couple of days, topping the water to cover for evaporation Wherever the water line is will be some surface rust when you are done....easy to take it off up at the filler neck opening.

Really bad tanks will need 2 gallons of acid. After the days pass, you can look in with a flashlight & see that the metal should look like brand new. Now have these chemicals ready when you dump the water so you can treat the tank right away.

Baking soda (Neutralize the acid in the tank)
Isopropyl rubbing alcohol
MEK (methyl ethyl ketone)
Bill Hirsch's alcohol-proof sealer or Equal

Dump the water from the tank, dump in a box of baking soda and refill with the hose to stop the acid's reaction. After a little while, dump the tank and flush with the hose. Then empty it, pour in 2 or 3 cheap bottles of isopropyl rubbing alcohol to soak up the water, slosh it all around and dump. Then pour in a quart of MEK (methyl ethyl ketone), slosh this around in all the nooks and crannies, and dump it out. Lastly, pour in some MEK-based gas tank sealer (I use Bill Hirsch's alcohol-proof sealer) and slosh the tank. Any little bit of MEK from the last step will mix perfectly with the sealer (unlike lacquer thinner). Pour the excess back into the container so you can repeat the sealer sloshing after the first coat dries. Maybe do the coating a couple of times, and a third coat on the bottom. That's where the water lays.

Let it dry out real good and install.

Thanks all!
Michael

[Chucks Stude]

I think that we have discussed this one before, and decided that Muratic is way to active to use on an old tank, unless one wants a tank full of swiss cheese. There will be several different methods discussed here, but Muratic is pretty much no joy as far as I am concerned. I have even used chains and lacquer thinner and gotten them clean.

[bradnree]

I have used the "DRAINO" method found on this site. Search "DRAINO".

But I have had several done for $35.00 each at a company using a hot water high pressure spray system. This works very well and you get a spotless tank. If you want to coat it inside try NAPA's red sealer.

BRAD

[dday392]

Whatever method you choose, take out the sender FIRST. Remove the sender as soon as you lower the tank down (or even before, through the access hole). Don't turn the tank sideways or upside down with the sender still in the tank. You never know, there could be something heavy enough in there to damage the float arm.

Dave Davis
Bakersfield, Ca.
1953 Commander Regal Starlight
'58 392 Chrysler Hemi powered

[mjeansonne]

I have cleaned, patched and sealed several tanks. An old mechanic friend of mine told me early on to put rocks (about the size of medium eggs) into the tank with the water and soap solution. Slosh it around really well... that will dislodge any rust or scale in the tank. Remove the rocks and water/soap solution, let dry and use Bill Hirsch' tank sealant.

I wouldn't use muratic acid though. If the tank wall is really thin, you could make it thinner and the new thinness not show up.



Laisez le bon temps roulez avec un Studebaker

[Johnnywiffer]

The acid method may be wonderful but my concern is: where do you dump all that stuff? Not supposed to dump ANYTHING bad, where I live, even down the drain. You may have the "Dumping Police" after you!

John

[wolfie]

Ive used the muratic acid trick on a number of tanks, automotive,small engine and motorcycle. The only tank I have ever had I couldnt clean and seal by that method was a motorcycle tank that had been cleaned with chains and rocks and not sealed before I got it. chains and rocks do way more damage than the acid. Use a good sealer (I use kreme brand) and you will have no more problems.Steve

[Transtar60]

I just take them to a radiator shop that cleans and seals gas tanks too.
They do a professional job and the tanks I have had done work like new.



3E38
4E2
4E28
5E13
7E7
8E7
8E12
8E28

59 Lark
etc

[hotrodstude]

transtar60 is right do it right the first time and you will have no problems for a long time,plus it will show any rust out or broken seems. go with the radiator shop.

[jjones]

I just finished sealing the tank on my M with a KBS gas tank sealer kit. The kit had everything I needed to clean, etch and de-rust, and seal the tank, and worked as advertized. I have used these kts twice before with excellent results and highly recommend them. www.KBS-COATINGS.com


Jeff Jones
Tucson Arizona
1947 M-5

[gearhead49]

I have used the POR 15 sealer a number of times and love it. I have a old Jeep J10 that we plow the drive with and it had a ton of pin holes. POR 15 sealed them and it has been holding gas for 7 years now.

[Guest]

Not to hijack Michael's thread, but could someone suggest the best goo to use for the neoprene SW sender gasket? I know some recommend dry, but I'd prefer to use a sealant. Thank you!

[52 Ragtop]

If you have a "Ready-Strip"near you, take the tank to them, have them "dip-strip" it, you will get back a perfectly clean tank! (inside and out) Get some "Red-Kote" sealer from a radiator shop and seal it yourself.

Jim

[Kenmike2]

Eliminate all the IF"s and what'ifs. Just take it to Gas Tank RENU and let the professionals do it right. There're 52 agencies around the world and they've done literally millions of tanks. If you spend a day and a half doing a tank you've lost money just on your time alone. The RENU process bakes on a PVC finish, inside and out, that is absolutely permanent.
A RENU'd tank is [u]better than a new tank</u>, because it comes with a lifetime warranty. When was the last time you saw any new piece of bare sheet metal come with a lifetime warranty?
No cold treatment will ever go inside one of my tanks again.
REgards

[leyrret]

" could someone suggest the best goo to use for the neoprene SW sender gasket? I know some recommend dry, but I'd prefer to use a sealant. Thank you!"

Nitrile or viton is better choice if your gasket is truly neoprene. Exposure to gasoline makes neoprene somewhat brittle. I took a piece and soaked in in gas for a day. It could then easily be pull to pieces. That being said #2 non-hardening Permatex or Locite gasket sealer works well with gasoline. A good rubber gasket shouldn't need sealer. It will sometimes make the gasket slip.