Paint: Semi CASO paint question

[Ron Dame]

Paint has never been cheap in the past 30 some odd years that I've been painting, but geeze, it has gotten way out of hand. I'm talking about materials only. The last car I painted was about 15 years ago (which sounds way longer than staying I painted it in 2010) ran about $1200 for primers, fillers, BC/CC, reducers, and all. Now for the same type of job, it's well over $4000. What brands or systems are out there for the home restorer that will provide a good driver and local show winning finish that are reasonable? Given that I have no more usable reducers, catalysts, and so forth, are water based systems viable for the amateur painter?
Basically, what is the best way to go to combine cost, quality, and ease of use, and what kind of materials cost should I expect?

[StudeRich]

Here is one good CASO Paint:

https://tcpglobal.com/pages/automotive-paint-home



A Color Cross reference Chart:

https://paintref.com/cgi-bin/colorcodedisplay.cgi?make=Studebaker&con=k&year=1963&rows=50

[Crider]

Check out the offerings from Tamco auto paint. Been doing body work for a living since the mid 80's and they have the best primer I have ever used. I've only used a little bit of their base and clear, but so far I have been very happy with all of it. Another good option for budget friendly is the omni plus line from PPG.

[Topper2011]

+ one on TCP Global. I was able to get my Desert Tan from them for a reasonable price. I just bought some paint from them for a motorcycle that worked out pretty well.

[Tired iron]

Another vote for TCP global...but what does CASO mean?

[Topper2011]

Stands for "Cheap A$$ Studebaker Owner". I don't know how that started, but I believe they are definitely not, judging by all the quality cars that have been presented by many of the members here.

[Hallabutt]

Are you just trying to make it all one color or are you trying to make a color match? Also is you job going to be a single stage without hardener and do you plan to cut a rub, or clear coat? Frankly speaking a quality paint job can mean the difference between a valuable collector car and a car that is not respected and that nobody wants. A penny saved know might cost you later.

[wdills]

Since you stated semi caso, I'll make the suggestion of Southern Polyurethanes for everything except your color. Their primers and clear are just as good as anyone but a little less expensive. And for a DIY'er they have awesome tech support. I have actually called on a Sunday and the owner of the company called me back and set me straight. My experience with basecoat is that cheaper doesn't necessarily save money because it doesn't cover as well so you have to apply more coats therefore you need more material. And later on if you ever have to make a repair the top shelf basecoat colors are much easier to match than the cheaper stuff. I have only discussed base/clear because as a DIY'er myself, I find it easier to get a good finish, especially if your color is metallic. Spraying basecoat is very forgiving. You don't have to lay down perfect coats of paint, just make sure you don't get too heavy and cause a run. Then when you spray your clear, you got to get it wet enough to shine but if you get a run it is easy to fix and as long as you put down enough material you can fix most any blemishes with a little elbow grease for a cut and buff. Just my opinion.

[Jeffry Cassel]

I use Nasson enamel. I use Rustolem primer filler and primer sealer in rattle cans so I can do one panel at a time. The paint is low tech and buffs out nicely. And not super $$ --as long as you don't use red! I hate 'two stage' and polyurethane! But enamel might be just a bit more challenging.

[Ron Dame]

Here's a bit of follow-up: in 2000, I painted my Champ with (Dammit, forgot the brand, but I think it was a PPG product) a high quality BC/CC over their primer system. Won 1st at the 2001 SE Zone meet with the fresh paint, while Ray Fichthorn put the letters on the tailgate. The truck has been outside a lot, doesn't get the wash and wax services it should, but people still are impressed with the paint. Even more so when they found out that I did it in an ancient wooden garage, myself. I also restored a '60 Lark HT with the same BC/CC with equally impressive results, if I do say so myself. Yes, I cut and buffed both, mostly because of my spray technique and fear of runs, and part because of trash in paint from that dusty old shed.

Now I have a 1980 Avanti II, in a dark red metallic. I paid too much, but so what. I'm not in it to make money, or even break even. It's been resprayed once, possibly because of the early water based paint system they used that was recalled, or maybe not. It still has good gloss, but it chipping and peeling in many places, so I will have to take it down to at least primer and work my way up again. After a minor collision a couple of years ago, I used a local shop who does a lot of stuff like older cars and some customs that other shops won't do. He did the front clip and the deck lid, because it was peeling badly, and I was quite pleased. But both are peeling again, and it may be because he doesn't do much fiberglass and used the wrong products? I don't know. Anyway, the paint lets it down, and I'm not fond of the color anyway.

I'm considering a different, not metallic red, something like Comanche Red perhaps, that is not metallic, partly because as a semi CASO, I wouldn't need to do jambs, underhood, and trunk. I could probably do it as a single stage as well, assuming that might be less expensive, though require more after-spray labor. And I like the look of the non-metallic reds.

I'd like to drive and enjoy it a few more years and then move it on to a new owner. Let's face it: an Avanti II has never commanded prices of a Studebaker Avanti, and maybe never will. So I'd like to end up with something I like but that minimizes my future financial losses.

What does this do to any advice?

[Crider]

If I were going to do a single stage red, PPG concept is the only choice for me, it's far from the cheapest, but it looks amazing, holds up great, and spraying it is a breeze

[Hallabutt]

You indicated single stage and indicate "after-spray labor," so that means that you intend to use a catalyst, correct? You are going to have a hard time cutting and rubbing if you don't use a catalyst.