Yet another oil pan gasket install thread

[M-Webb]

That is a very good question. I have no idea as this is my very first motor build project of any sort, let alone a Studebaker. But it seems to me that this whole process is a bit more of a PIA procedure than it really needs or should be, even for such a legacy thing from way back. The seals really should just be pretty easy to install with minimum chance of messing it up, and come precut to exactly the size needed since there is no variances in the motors themselves.

But the rear main seal especially is clearly either a PIA mess to have to force into place at such a critical spot, or it is way too long and needs to be trimmed. The front not as much, but maybe some there as well.

At this point in technology, like what seems to be the case with modern motors, a 1-piece synthetic modern material gasket perfectly formed and shaped would be ideal and probably a lot easier to install with min chance of failure. But given the projected volume of sales for something like that, I doubt it would make much sense for anyone to have something like that made. And given the nature of a lot of us, if it costs $5 more than the current ones, it will have a hard time selling no matter how much better it might be or how much time and effort it might save.

But I am still of the opinion that next time around, if there ever is, I’m going to trim that rear seal even a bit more and just let the sealant do it’s job and fight it as little as possible to get it in.

Another thought is I was tempted to put sealant on the block side of the gaskets and dry fit it on the pan side first and then torque it all down for a day. Then remove the pan and check everything while it is sealed and held in position. Then remove the pan and put sealant on the pan flanges and put it all back together one last time. If I do it again, I think I possibly will do that, see how that works out. But that is likely only a good idea if the gasket is only slightly bigger than needed, minimal compression. Not a good idea if at full length and had to fight it to fit the first go around, will probably just pop back loose if so.

[Desert53Stude]

That is a great write up Mr. Webb. I will be re-reading it a few more times. The pictures are fantastic add.
Thanks again.

[M-Webb]

You are welcome. That is exactly why I took the time to do it, hopefully help others and make it easier for others to learn and figure out the best way for themselves also.

But yes, do not overdo it with the gasket sealant. It seems like less if better actually on most all of it, except a bit more at those corners. Make sure everything is as clean as you can make it before you start putting it back together. Take your time. And I would definitely trim that rear gasket to just bit a bit longer than it fits as Rich noted. You want it to compress some, but not so much that you will need to fight it, especially if doing this underneath the car with gravity working against you. And yes, making some guide studs for the corners will help you a lot as Rich also noted. And I would suggest the studs, not just pins like I did. The pins were helpful, but not as much as studs would be. Again, especially if you are doing this under the car with gravity not helping with just the pins. Being able to put a nuts on those corner studs would help that a lot. Get the pan on loose, then check you gaskets, then slowly tighten those up and you keep an eye on the gaskets to make sure they are squeezing in place properly.

Good luck with it. Feel free to take a few photos and do a write up yourself too if you want. Maybe it will add some good info to help others with doing it in the car vs out of the car like I am doing.