The bracket for the compressor is over the water pump and blocks the plug for the line to hook the heater hose.Is there some other place to connect the line.Thank You,Don
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heater hose placement on a 64 gt hawk with air condition
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A '64 Water Manifold should have a "Boss" raised on the Left Leg of the Manifold similar to the right one.
You can drill and tap that spot on the Manifold for a Pipe Thread Brass Fitting to 3/4" Heater Hose, just the way the Factory and Dealers did for AC.
Some Manifolds were already done and plugged.
The "Other" alternative is what the aftermarket AC Co's. like Mark IV did, not knowing Studebaker had a better way to do that.
They made a special little 3/4" Hose fitting that fits the back of the Right head where the water opening block off plate is.
Sorry, in my hundreds of Stude. Pics I have NO pictures of the Engines of the very few, of the VERY few Studes. that actually had Air Cond. Compressors cluttering up the engine compartment and adding nose weight.Last edited by StudeRich; 07-15-2025, 02:50 PM.StudeRich
Second Generation Stude Driver,
Proud '54 Starliner Owner
SDC Member Since 1967
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These pictures should answer the question. They are of my '64 Hawk with factory AC. Someone removed the compressor before I got the car, but left the mounting brackets. (Dang, I needed all of that road-hugging weight from the AC!)
One can buy heater hose with a molded-in 90 deg elbow on one end from a local FLAPS.
--Dwight
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Last edited by Dwight FitzSimons; 07-15-2025, 07:06 PM.
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I loaded two JPG pix using the normal SDC Forum link at the bottom left when I posted my response. I use Firefox. So, I don't know what's up here, but I see two large pix.
Anyway, the pix clearly show the heater hose connected to the driver's side boss on the water manifold just like Studerich posted in response no. 2.
--Dwight
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My GT had the heater hose fitting on the rear of the passenger side head when I got it. I did not like it there, it was in the way of some changes I was making, so I moved it to the passenger side of the water manifold under the AC compressor.
If you are not using the massive, heavy, York compressor and are instead using the far more efficient Sanden one , an notch can be cut in the mount to fit around the heater hose.
Here's mine. I made the Sanden adapter from two short pieces of 2" angle iron, but they are available commercially.
The original york bracket with notch (pic from bottom side), my adapter, mounted on engine , complete.
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StudeRich
Second Generation Stude Driver,
Proud '54 Starliner Owner
SDC Member Since 1967
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"When you can see the photos and we cannot, it is because they are on your Computer, but not hosted on the SDC Forum with acceptable formats like .jpg"
I DID post the two pix in .jpg format, using the "Upload Attachments" button on the bottom left of the screen, as below. If you can see the image below then you should be able to see the two images in my post no. 4.
--Dwight
​Last edited by Dwight FitzSimons; 07-16-2025, 04:08 PM.
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I've never used "upload attachments" to post pictures. I use the "Image " icon and follow the prompts. From there you can post from your computer , or from a URL directly from another website. You can also size the pic whatever size you want , not just small, medium ,large, etc. Never had any problem with pics posting this way. Let's see if "upload attachments" works.
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You want a wider belt for the compressor, and all other pulley sheves in the loop should match. If you have a narrower sheve anywhere in the loop, then you must run a belt that matches the narrower sheve. If you run a narrower belt in a wide sheve, all it does is ride lower in the groove. But if you run a wide belt in a narrow sheve, it will ride too high in the grove, and is susceptible to the belt rolling over (running inside out) in the groove, and / or jumping out of the groove.
Ideally, all AC related pulleys in the loop match the compressor pulley, and allow a wider belt. A wider belt is referred because it is stronger, and rides higher in the sheve so has more leverage in spinning the compressor, which also helps avoid belt screech.
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Lemme try again: Most, if not all compressors, including the Sanden 508, have wide pulley grooves for 7/16" wide belts, which also match the correct (7/16) Stude factory AC pulleys on the crank and water pump.. Other pulleys on the crank, for the alternator and WP, are for 3/8" belts, and visibly narrower, when viewed side by side. Back to my post above, you could run a 3/8" belt on your compressor, but it won't match the compressor grooves. Depends on whether you have correct or incorrect pulleys (3/8" or 7/16") on the WP and crank, whether the 3/8" belt will match and ride at proper height in those pulley grooves. Also, if you have the correct 7/16" pulley on the WP and use a 3/8" belt, it will constantly squeak, because of the radial difference between the 3/8" and 7/16" pulleys, side by side, on the WP.
Again, in sum, match pulleys and belts in each loop (alternator, PS, and AC), and beware the AC loop uses 7/16" belt, and the other two use 3/8". Nowadays, some belts are only measured in MM, so you gotta use a conversion calculator, and pick the closest fit for both.
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Exactly Joe, most all A/C Pulleys and Belts including Original Stude. A/C are ALL single belt 7/16".
I loved the way Stude. designed my Dealer installed, Factory A/C setup on my '64 Daytona Sedan, because when the Alternator quit half way between Everett, WA and Torrance, CA (L.A) I removed the Alt. belt and left the Fan and Water Pump on the original stock pulleys that also run over the A/ C Compressor for 700+ miles driving and stopping at "Service Stations" two times for Battery charges in the Daytime, and sleeping at one at Night waiting for them to open for a Charge, not great with 2 young Boys in the car, but it worked !StudeRich
Second Generation Stude Driver,
Proud '54 Starliner Owner
SDC Member Since 1967
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Yes, stock I also had three separate belts. One AC , fan, water pump; one alternator, water pump; and one power steering. All three have always had the same width belt and are the same as what it had when I got it. In fact, the triple crank pulley is a stack of three of the exact same pulley with spacers between them to complete the stack.
Last edited by bensherb; 07-18-2025, 05:43 PM.
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Thanks, guys! For now, I'm going to use the 3/8" wide 2 belt option as described on the Ray-Lin page, pictured in the article titled Studebaker Air Conditioning Part 2. I will continue to look for the crank pulley that I can sandwich onto the Jet Thrust two-pulley damper and the spacer to add to the water pump pulley to add the 2nd pulley so i can use 3 belts and take the pressure off the water pump bearing. Presently, I need to buy a Sanden 508 and a conversion bracket to anchor to my Studebaker compressor bracket. A fellow in this group has an evaporator I may purchase.
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