Joe, Thank-you. I live in Canada but this is never going to be winter driven. Anyway, I had a look now that I know where to look and my heat riser appears to be but a shell with the flapper removed and the holes for the pivots brazed shut. So I don't have a functioning heat riser valve either! Makes sense given this was a Texas car. I presume the manifold cross over ports are still open so there will be some back and forth exhaust flow there.
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All I can say is IF you EVER want to start your Car at all in Fall, Spring or Winter in Ontario, CA without a Heat Riser Valve to warm the Automatic Choke that SHOULD be working, it is Not going to happen !
I am pretty sure it is not a modified "Hot Rod", and it is not in Arizona.
StudeRich
Second Generation Stude Driver,
Proud '54 Starliner Owner
SDC Member Since 1967Comment
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Rich in post 1 he said he has an Edlebrock 1406, so pretty sure he has an electric choke, which does not need a heat riser to function as it was designed to do. If he has an earlier carb, with hot air operated choke then yes, needs a heat riser in cold climates. But NOT if he has an electric choke.Originally posted by StudeRich View PostAll I can say is IF you EVER want to start your Car at all in Fall, Spring or Winter in Ontario, CA without a Heat Riser Valve to warm the Automatic Choke that SHOULD be working, it is Not going to happen !
I am pretty sure it is not a modified "Hot Rod", and it is not in Arizona.Comment
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Actually, the electric choke is broken. I’m waiting for a new bimetallic/electric heater for it. But, dance on the accelerator pump and it will start in freezing cold weather without the choke. And then keep dancing on the throttle until it stays running on its own. Not the preferred method of course.Comment
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A manual choke has always worked best for me. My current "Brauler" 750 cfm carb has an electric but it opens too fast, so if the engine doesn't start on the first try the choke is open for the second. I installed a switch to kill power to the choke until the engine it running; I then switch it back on. It works great this way and starts the second, maybe third try.
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The spacer that I used on my 62 GT was just the thick built up gasket from Studebaker International. I replaced the original WCFB manifold with a later one so that the bores would be correct for the Edelbrock. I first tried it with the old open spacer that I had been using and it ran like garbage. I called Edelbrock support for help and the first question he asked was if I was using an open spacer or not. When I said that I was he told me to get rid of it and use a spacer that had individual bores. He stated that our two level manifolds only work properly with the individual bore spacer. After much searching I could not find a spacer that matched the carburetor bores. The Edelbrock has small primary bores and larger secondary bores, all the spacers I could find for the Edelbrock had all four holes to match the larger secondaries. I'm not sure if it really makes any difference but the built up spacer from SI was the only one I could find that matched the bores and it also allows the transmission control on the throttle shaft to clear the manifold. I don't know if matching the bores made any real difference but the car runs better now than it ever did, and that's over 160,00 miles and 60 years.Roger W. List
Proud Studebaker OwnerComment
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Yeah, That's the problem with an electric choke. They aren't too smart. I wonder if it couldn't be wired in series with a simple wood stove fan thermo-disc type bimetallic thermostat stuck on the intake manifold? Or a variable thermostat used for a rad fan? If exceedingly cold, the choke would remain unpowered. The only good thing about them is they do automatically remove the choke, whereas I've always been lousy at remembering, especially now that I've been spoiled by fuel injection on modern cars. Fred
bensherb commented: A manual choke has always worked best for me. My current "Brauler" 750 cfm carb has an electric but it opens too fast, so if the engine doesn't start on the first try the choke is open for the second. I installed a switch to kill power to the choke until the engine it running; I then switch it back on. It works great this way and starts the second, maybe third try.Comment
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