I wanted to add a Bluetooth audio system to my ’64 Daytona while I installed the rear 3pt seat belts and had the seat and package tray removed. Some folks might hate on that (theres another recent post complaining about connecting phones to everything). I wanted something where I could stream music off my phone and use Google maps, kind of like android auto (if you have newer other vehicle) without adding a reciever for it. My Daytona has a factory am/fm and I didn’t really want to tear into the dash or get a retro looking stereo so I looked at small amps that had Bluetooth connectivity. I chose the Boss amp as it had enough power for two rear speakers, 5 ¼” Kickers. It was relatively cheap, ~$100 and had a remote control to adjust the volume and change songs. I also added a Boss Audio USB and aux in connection which plugs right into the amp so that I can charge my phone when I use it on longer road trips for directions/music.
- Control Mount – I wanted to mount this so that if I wanted to go back to a full stock look I could do it relatively easily. It also needed to be accessible while driving. I chose to mount it to the underside of the ashtray. I used zinc corner bracing from Menards, ~ $1.50, and mounted the bracing underneath the ashtray. I used some flat black paint before installing so that the bracing is less visible. I ran the wiring under the dash and along the side under the carpet. The wiring is hardwired to the control buttons so I mounted the control and then ran the wiring under the dash, then down the front kick panel and under the carpet to the back where I planned to mount the amp in the trunk behind the rear seat. This control had plenty of wire already to get it to the back of the Daytona. If you have a center console/cup holder, you could easily hide it in there.
- USB and Aux in Mount – The Boss Audio amp came with a motorcycle handlebar mount, a hose clamp with a bracket. I decided to use the bracket portion to mount this under the dash to the metal crossmember and then use the hose camp part to hold the aux in/USB connections. Similarly, I painted the bracket flat black so it wasn’t noticeable. The Boss Audio aux in and USB connection only had about 6 feet of lead. This only allowed me to get it routed under the dash and down to the carpet just in front of the front seat. I ended up buying two 6ft USB extensions (male/female) from Menards, ~ $4 each, and 17ft of RCA wire ~$8, and an RCA coupler ~$4 so that I could get it to the back of the Daytona. I would have liked to put heat shrink over these connections but I did not have any that would fit, so I just used electrical tape to ensure that all the metal portions where completely covered and that they would not come apart.
- Power and Ignition wiring – The amp requires a direction connection to the battery, I’m assuming it requires some memory to remember the Bluetooth connection so you do not have to pair a phone with it every time you turn the car on. I just ran 14 gauge wire from the battery connection on the starter solenoid, through a hole in the firewall and then following the routing of the other wiring. Similarly, I just ran a wire from the ignition to back of the car.
- Amp – The amp has a separate harness that the speaker wires come out of along with the ignition and battery power wires that plugs into the amp. The battery connection on the harness includes a fuse already so I decided to not include one in my wiring. I connected these using butt connectors and heat shrinking over these after testing it and added speaker wiring and speaker connections as the wiring supplied is not long enough to reach the speakers. The lighting for the controller also plugs into this harness with the supplied connector. For the ground on the harness, I used a sheet metal screw and just put it into the floor. The amp itself has the pre-out, aux in RCA, USB, and controller connection hardwired to it. I just plugged in my USB extension, RCA extension, and controller wire to these connections. I did a continuity check on my ignition, battery, and ground wires to make sure the connections were good before connecting the battery again. After the test to make sure everything worked, I mounted the amp to the floor of the trunk and taped my unused connections together, so they were not loose. The amp has two additional speaker connections available, but on the Daytona being small I didn’t feel like I’d get much adding some front speakers either under the dash or to the kick panels. Here is a pic of the amp mounted in the trunk. The wiring still looks like a bit of a rats nest. I need to be tie it up some more and tuck it behind the rear seat backer board. I plan to do this after a few drives to ensure I don't have a loose connection or anything like that.
- Rear package tray – I purchased a new replacement package tray from SI since the one I removed was completely warped beyond repair. Since I installed 3pt seat belts I started with trimming the edges of the cardboard to get the package tray to sit properly around the belt where it comes up through the package tray from the trunk to the pivot point. I did this first to ensure that I could get it where I wanted and laying completely flat before cutting holes in it for the rear speakers. I then traced underneath the package tray where I wanted to mount the 5 ¼” Kicker speakers.
- Speakers - For the speakers I went with 5 1/4" Kickers to avoid cutting the two inner holes around the single speaker hole in the package tray. Since the speakers aren't a perfect match for the hole size, I decided to use 8-32 x2" machine screws, rubber washer, fender washer, and nut to hold the speaker in place above the package tray. So essentially it is "sandwiching" the package tray. This worked well, but I've only driven the Daytona twice. So far no rattles or movement.
- For my phone, I ended up with a cheap windshield suction cup mount off of Amazon so that I can have my phone in reach.
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