Fuel System: What is the best way to run fuel line on my skyhawk.

[cabforward]

I am going to run a new fuel line on my skyhawk with the body still on the frame. It does not look like an easy feat to run the as factory from behind drivers side outside the frame 'up and over the frame to the inside of the frame back to the gas tank.
There is only 1 joint under the frame near the engine. This is a straight line in that area and I am not sure why they split the lines there.

My questions are as follows.
1. is it ok to have multiple joints in the fuel line I am think of the place it goes up and over the frame (as described above).
2. original line is 5/16. (is it a double flair? I am perfecting my skills on short pieces as of now.

I have a brake line question also. The brake line is .190 (.187) . Is it ok to run .25 line or should I source some 3/ 16 line?

[StudeRich]

Other than Not looking professional, and cosmetically Nice, extra coupling sleeves should not restrict Fuel flow.
The Two piece Line was done that way to ease installation, and no more were used to keep cost and labor down.

Normally Trucks use 1/4" Brake Line and Cars 3/16", you will have too many problems fitting the Brake lines to the Hydraulic Units if you don't use the Factory 3/16", it isn't broken, so don't re-invent it.

[gjamesk]

When I did the fuel line on my '52, I used stock lengths of CuNi brake line. I added a union mid-length; as I remember the longest available from O'Reilly was 60". I double-flared them and have never had any leaks. I'd say split it where convenient, do it right and don't worry about it.

[cabforward]

ok cool, good advice thank you

[skalka]

I used 2 unions with my '59 hawk. I cut the original gas line where it looked like I could remove it with mangling it, and just made the new line to match. Made it relatively easy to install. Probably could have gotten by with just 1 union if it didn't have power steering. For some reason that short piece was a real PITA to remove and install.

[Jeffry Cassel]

I was told by a pro a couple weeks ago that you should never use anything but rubber fuel line to join metal fuel line as other means tend to leak. You want to put just a little flare one the ends and if you are really paranoid loke me, double clamp it. The little flare keeps the hose from sliding off. Cu-Ni is wonderful stuff--expensive but well worth it. As for route--put it right back where it was. Does it really need to be replaced?

[enjenjo]

Properly assembled an inverted flare union fitting will not come loose. Even a properly assembled compression union is good for over 300 psi. Of course the line should be supported every 16 to 24 inches, and at least one support near the connection. I'm a retired professional

[acolds]

When I did my 57 Clipper made short piece from tank over frame to outside of frame rail then mounted electric pump (to prime system after prolonged non use aid starting) then another piece to factory joint at front of frame kick up. Took a little time to get rear piece to correct bends as mine also connects to the fuel sender at top of gas tank. Think I used two four ft 3/8 NAPA lines . Used rubber to connect to electric fuel pump

[jg61hawk]

Be sure to look at it from all angles...removing the rear wheel provides good access to the tank and frame right where you describe it as being hard to access.

[bezhawk]

Hawks had a weird line cover or reinforcement under the frame where it crossed over back by the front of the drivers side rear spring. The line often rusts there. I you can, route it over the frame in that area.