Electrical: 1962 Heater blower motor re-funk/bench test ? !

[jackb]

I decided to start a newer thread rather than add to my original one for an updated and clarifying assessment.

My Lark heater motor was blowing fuses that "seemed" to occur when it rained. I cleaned the switch. I tested it and the wires from it to the motor, They tested fine. As it turns out, I was losing fuses with normal weather conditions whenever I started in Hi speed. For a short while, I was able to start in lo speed then to hi with intermittent failures. To test for wetness and motor function on the bench, I removed the lower half of the housing with the motor and found no moisture under there after a good couple of days of rain. I have hooked up all connections to a good battery with a spare switch, a 20 amp fuse, and have yet to blow a fuse in several running's regardless of speed chosen at start up. My only guess now is a possible ground issue ? I laugh when I see the diameter of the round ground connector that attaches to the blower housing . Its about twice the diameter of the small mounting screw.

So, any suggestions ?

[r1lark]

Couple of thoughts. When you are running it out of the car, do you have the motor and squirrel cage positioned the same way they are positioned when in the car? I've had some fans that ran quiet and smooth 'upside down', but when turned in the same orientation as in the car they got noisy.

Given the age of the motor, it might be time to disassemble it and check for rust, debris, bushings that need lubrication, etc that might be making it harder to get up to speed (and thus pull more amps on startup).

[Warren Webb]

My Champs seem to have their own sound system. I've been meaning to spray them with "Superzillo"(from Ace hardware) that maybe that will penetrate enough to quiet it down.

[StudeRich]

Remember that many of the 2 Speed Lark Fan Motors from '62-'66 are Open Motors, upside down, Below the Heater Core, so after 60 years of sometimes leaking heater cores, or Windshield they are beyond saving.

NAPA has a good replacement Motor for '60's and Newer Ford Econoline Vans/Trucks that works, but is single speed so I just run it full speed, never used Low anyway.

[jackb]

To get back... I am running the motor with the fan cage on and held in a vice as it is in the car. Quiet as a mouse. Also, this motor sat in a plastic baggie for 40 years after I bought it NOS from N&A in 1983. It has been working flawlessly x 3 years. I have another motor, 1 speed that was noisy in my 62' Champ truck . It's been sitting in a baggie for 10+ years and I've oiled the bushing and may use that if all else comes up for not.....

[Lark Hunter]

Any inadequacy or compromise in the wiring will add resistance to the circuit, which will lower the amperage draw of the motor to a certain degree, not increase it. Your blower motor sounds like it's getting ready to pack it in. I think your Climatizer is supposed to use a 15 amp fuse. Over-fusing it to 20 amps probably isn't going to burn your car down; it will still blow quickly if there's a short circuit, but the gimpy wiring is going to suffer if it's overloaded to, say, 18 amps, for long periods of time. If everything is copacetic, a 15 amp fuse will have enough overhead to handle the inrush of starting the motor from a dead stop when it's hot, cold, wet, dry. I haven't measured it, but am going to guess that a healthy motor probably requires 8-10ish amps on high at most; much over that would've overtaxed the stock 35 amp generator and left people stranded if they tried to drive on a cold, rainy night.

[jackb]

Just for testing purposes, I installed a 3 amp fuse in the 1 speed (hi) switch. Turned on the motor several times from a stop (hi)without issues. Tried again several times on lo speed, same thing = no problem. A quandary. I'm chasing my mind thinking is my test switch, 1 speed, in better condition than my original 2 speed in the car ? Are the 2 intermediate wires (from switch to coupling) questionable ? I don't want to replace the switches and wires with new unless necessary. Maybe I open up the motor and look for what ?

[Jeffry Cassel]

lubricants turn into a sticky gooey nasty stuff over time (including WD-40) The fan is pulling too much juice trying to overcome the friction. I am a new fan of Superzilla too , so try it. Do not try to solve the problem with a larger fuse! Superzilla or 3in1 Oil on the bushings will solve the problem.

[jackb]

Ok - an update. I now have noted some rust settlings inside the lower half of the blower housing. The fan is flash rusted, but there is what looks like a quarter's diameter of pooled (?) rust inside that lower half case. It should be noted that both front and rear glass have had substantial leaks around the w/seal that had required much sealer to dry things up. Also note that this car sat outside for some extended time with the leaking seals. Funny thing is, there is no sign of water or rust dripping from around the upper cowl seal. Where else could the water be coming in ? So, long winded as this is.....I'm still perplexed at the puzzle.

[StudeRich]

As per Post # 4, it came from the leaking Heater Core, or a clogged Air Box and Drain, full of leaves & possibly Mud allowing water into the Heater Core Box.

[jackb]

You know Rich, I think you're on to something...again. I went outside yesterday and doused the area with gallons of water to see if there was any sign of leakage . Absolutely none. Then, I did check the core itself with no obvious wetness. That was after I opened and closed the water valve several times while running. This maybe the one time I can bring a spare core (3) to the radiator shop and make a a known good one. It makes sense that the coolant is running inside to the blower motor, insulation etc, and never dripping on to the white towel I've had under the open area for over a week now. After a time, it dries, motor works until next amount of infecting coolant.

[jackb]

SOLUTION / FINAL FIX : After blowing a fuse with a replaced 1 speed switch and 1 speed motor, I found the problem by accident. While dropping the switch from the dash, I had forgotten to disconnect the battery (I've disconnected it now 5+ times to check this problem) ..... anyway as I lowered the switch, and with the switch "on"......... the motor started blowing ! Upon close inspection I could see the wire shining thru at the wire- to - connector joint. With wiggling it the blower came off and on. Replaced with new connector = all appears well.