Other: New 1950 to restore

[carlj8]

I just bought a 1950 Champion convertible from my cousin. He has had it stored in his regular garage for the last 50 years. It originally belonged to his wife's father. He bought it new. It has 63,000 miles on it. I just brought it home Sunday. I have the wheels out to be sand blasted and powder coated. I have Coker wide whitewalls on order. Until all that gets done, the car is stuck on my lift.

I know I am going to have a lot of questions for you guys as I did for my SilverHawk that I restored a few years back. SilverHawk by the way placed in top 20 out of 200 cars at a show a couple of weeks ago.

My first question is "How do I know if the car still has a positive ground"? My cousin didn't know, but he didn't think his father-in-law would have messed with that. No battery in the car which would have made it easy to find out!

[6hk71400]

Carlton,

Welcome to the forum. Here you will find all types of information on Studebakers.

Your car, as well as all Studebaker cars prior to 1956 were 6 volt positive ground systems. One problem is the heavy battery cables used are for 6 volt but most cables now are 12 volt and they provided hard starting for our cars. You will need a 0 guage cables for both positive and negative cables. When you have the correct cables, the engine will fire very quickly.

You have one of the most iconic Studebakers and a convertible as well. An electric motor under the back seat runs two cables to the screw type top rams. If you clean them they will give you trouble free operation.

Keep us posted and we all love pictures!

[Champ51]

Carlton,
Wonderful car! I've got a very similar '51 convertible Champion just up the road in Northfield.

I want to reinforce Bob's cautionary statement about the convertible top mechanism. You do not want to bust a hinge if something fails. Make sure those boden cables that drive the screw jacks are in good shape and spin easily. Take the center cables out for inspection and lubrication. Inspect the ends. They should be square and fit snugly into the motor.

Even though our car's cables are new and our jacks work easily, we have disconnected the jacks and just manually raise and lower our top. Better to insure that nothing is binding.

As to grounding, turn off the radio, install a battery, turn on your headlights and if the ammeter swings left, you've probably got the polarity correct.

Dean

[carlj8]

Hey Dean, does your convertible have a little switch just below the rear view mirror? What is it for?

[yeroldad]

An easy way to find out if the car is positive or negative ground is set a battery in and try to put the cables on, one post is bigger than the other, so the cables will fit easily, or not. If they don't want to fit, try switching them. If it/they fit easily, then you have them on the correct posts. This will let you know if it's positive or negative ground. Make sense?

[StudeRich]

Also Know that there WERE NO Negative Ground 6 Volt Chrysler Products, Ford Products or Studebakers.

The other thing that someone COULD have changed/got Wrong is the Coil Polarity, it should have the Wire to the Distributor on the + (Ground) Coil Terminal, you could check that.

Your Battery needs to be a Group ONE Size, 6 Volt.

[Bullet]

Great car, excellent color! lucky you.

Mark

[rockne10]

Until all that gets done, the car is stuck on my lift.

it is NOT "stuck on the lift" if you take this opportunity to thoroughly examine your total brake system; unless you know your cousin's FIL has already replaced ALL the hard lines and hoses or leaky cylinders.
Seventy, or even thirty-year-old, lines on a single master cylinder system is a tragedy waiting to happen.

[carlj8]

Thanks, I am doing just that. I took off all of the drums and by golly they all have brand new shoes!!

[carlj8]

After inspection I ordered the dual master cylinder kit from Turner. Called Classictube and Inlinetube to see if I could get the pre-formed SS lines. Seems all that is available is for the stock single MC. Looks like I will be forming my own!

[Champ51]

Carlton,
The little switch controls the windshield wipers. Most likely vacuum wipers on your car. On a '51 the vacuum motor is just opposite the switch on the engine side of the firewall. I presume yours is the same.

[Champ51]

Carlton,
The little switch controls the windshield wipers. Most likely vacuum wipers on your car. On a '51 the vacuum motor is just opposite the switch on the engine side of the firewall. I presume yours is the same.

[carlj8]

A little update, and a couple of questions. I thought I might get it to run yesterday, but it didn't happen - no spark! Have new ignition (points, rotor, condenser, coil, bulk solid copper wires, wire ends) on order - should have all that by Wed or so. I would hope that takes care of the spark!

I have a completely installed a new brake system - dual master cylinder, all new wheel cylinders, all new lines, and brakes bled - with solid pedal! So, when I get it running I will certainly be able to stop! I had installed a remote filler, but I took it out. I couldn't get the master cylinder to stop weeping. The master cylinder is not made to be over full. So, I cut a bigger hole in the floor and made a cover for it - that fixed the weeping!

I had the gas tank cleaned and lined with plastic. All installed with completely new gas lines. I rebuilt the fuel pump so it can handle the new gas. I have cranked the engine for quite awhile, but no fuel in the glass bowl. Question - will a new fuel pump suck gas without any sort of priming, or should I suck gas up to the carb? I could probably hook up my pneumatic brake bleeder to do that. Comments.

Misc - I have replaced all of the rubber water line hoses, put in a new water pump, had the radiator boiled out The antifreeze that I drained from the system was really clean - so I am just assuming the motor water jacket is clean also. If it overheats, I guess I would look into that.

Had the wheels sand blasted and powder coated. Put wide white walled Cokers on them - looks great.

Found a body shop that is willing to do the paint for a reasonable price - just need to get it running.

New top sitting in the shop ready to install.

[jackb]

yaba daba doo

[Big Dan]

Carlton,

Welcome to the forum. Here you will find all types of information on Studebakers.

Your car, as well as all Studebaker cars prior to 1956 were 6 volt positive ground systems. One problem is the heavy battery cables used are for 6 volt but most cables now are 12 volt and they provided hard starting for our cars. You will need a 0 guage cables for both positive and negative cables. When you have the correct cables, the engine will fire very quickly.

You have one of the most iconic Studebakers and a convertible as well. An electric motor under the back seat runs two cables to the screw type top rams. If you clean them they will give you trouble free operation.

Keep us posted and we all love pictures!

I've always found it much more reliable to MAKE your own battery cables rather than to buy them and possibly suffer with them being too small or cheaply assembled. And while relatively expensive, they are very easy to make. There are certain things that are worth paying more for - this is one of them, especially if you are sticking with the 6-volt electrical system which requires heavier wiring.

Kimbluth 1/0 Gauge Battery Cable Copper Wire, 10FT Red+10FT Black 1/0 AWG Welding Cable Standard USA OFC Wire for Automotive, Battery, Solar, Marine and Generator: Amazon.com: Tools & Home Improvement

TKDMR 10pcs 1/0 AWG-3/8" Battery Lugs,Heavy Duty Wire Lugs,Ring Terminal ,0 Guage terminals,Battery Cable Ends/Terminal Connectors with 10pcs 3:1 Heat Shrink Tubing: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

[carlj8]

Got it running today after 6 months on the hoist!! New electrics (points, rotor, cap, condenser, coil, solid copper wire) and it runs OK. Gas guage working, oil pressure 40+, generator generating, lights all work except one headlight (pair on order). Still need to time it. I did find out that the rebuilt fuel pump needs priming! The glass bulb filled after using starting fluid about 10 times. Smoke coming out of the exhaust, hoping that is from sitting for 50 years! Otherwise I guess I am looking at new rings.

I tried to upload a video, but it didn't work. Can't this be done?

Problem I have now is I can't get the passenger door open. Messed with the key to no avail. It is really solid. Any ideas?

[yeroldad]

Put some Risilone down the spark plug holes and let it sit for a few days. Rings are probably stuck. Spray some PB blaster into the door keyhole, and if you can get some on the latch that will help also cuz it's probably rusted some also. Be a good thing to PB Blaster all the hinges, ignition switch, other switches, trunk lock, latches, etc.

[carlj8]

I managed to get it open, removing some trim from inside the door, then tapping on the lock wheel with the door handle in the position to open. Now the problem,that lock wheel is in pretty tough shape and that is what caused the problem. Looks like I need the lock mechanism PN 2317-1. I have no idea where I might get one of those. I own a machine shop, so I guess I could take it apart and make one! Don't want to, but I could. The key to lock the door works as it should.

[carlj8]

I just finished checking the compression, and I would say it is more than perfect --- 122,118,119,118,120 and 120 starting at the front. So, I am assuming the valves have to be seating as they should. I think the smoking has to be a stuck oil ring or maybe a few. I guess it could be valve guides. Am I thinking right? Will SeaFoam work as good as Risilone, or should I go out and get Eisilone?