Brakes: Brake lines: inverted flare vs standard

[TN GT Hawk]

Been buying and installing pre made straight steel brake lines for rear axle and front to back brake line replacement and just noticed that they are available in standard and inverted flare. I assume that cars of this age ('54 Conestoga) used standard flare lines and junction blocks. The very first line I installed MIGHT have been inverted flare because at that point I wasn't checking, and since the tag is gone I won't be able to tell. Will this line not hold pressure?

[gordr]

The standard flare for brake lines has been an inverted flare for as long as I can remember. The thickness of the metal is doubled in the flare to compensate for the stretching caused by the flare. I don't believe single flares are legal for brake lines, but may be found on fuel lines and domestic water lines. I really doubt any reputable parts house would sell single-flared lines as brake lines. Maybe there is some confusion in terminology? There is a metric button flare out there, and is used for brake lines, but it is not compatible with invert flare fittings.

[r1lark]

Not sure what they mean by "standard" flare. Studebakers used 45 degree double inverted flares on their brake lines. Go to a brake parts website like FedHill or Wilwood and look around.

There are also bubble flares which a Studebaker wouldn't have unless it has been retrofitted with brakes from some other vehicle that used bubble flares. There are also SAE ("American") thread versus metric thread fittings so be careful there too.

Here is a .pdf from Wilwood that shows the 45 degree double inverted flare:

[TN GT Hawk]

Yep, found the same info on Wilwood before coming back here. Looks like I need to make sure all my lines are inverted flare. The parts store clerk didn't know much and sent me back to grab a line off the rack. I must have grabbed a 3/16" transmission line, which could be single flare.

[Skip Lackie]

What Gord said. Brake lines must be inverted flare. Anybody who works in an auto parts store should know that.

[gordr]

I really don't know if you can find ready-made single flare lines in an auto parts store. Look carefully at the flare. If it is a double flare, it will have a profile like that in the Wilwood chart above. The outer edge of the flare will be rounded, and fairly thick. A single flare will be thinner, and have a thin, but squared-off edge to it, reflecting the shape of the cut pipe before flaring. The double flare has a rounded edge because the metal is folded back on itself. And if it's 3/16" line, it almost has to be brake line, or maybe oil pressure line. Transmission cooler lines, and power steering lines are usually at least 5/16", and more commonly 3/8", or bigger.

[Dan Timberlake]

" Anybody who works in an auto parts store should know that. "

A decade or so back a well meaning but not very old counter person at an Autozone/ADAP or Advanced wanted to sell me a few compression fitting unions for the brake lines I'd just bought.

https://cdn3.volusion.com/dfrau.gmyce/v/vspfiles/photos/B-62-2T.jpg?v-cache=1594725217

I //think// they have all wised up since then.

[rockne10]

In most states (not all), anything but a double flare is not permitted; reason for failing a safety inspection.

[rockne10]

Of course, SOME states are less concerned with the safety of their citizens, and hav either meager safety inspections, or none at all.

[Warren Webb]

Rather then trust a counter person who most likely wasn't born before 1970 I would flare your own instead. i bought a flaring tool from Eastwood years ago & it was money well spent. Do your own & have the piece of mind.

[gordr]

I made 4 double flares on Cunifer tube today for a non-Studebaker project I am working on. The two lines across the rear axle on a '49 Ford. And the hose from the junction tee to the frame? Same as Studebaker, and I had one on hand.

[wh22366]

I don't know how many of you might have run into this tool or variations, but it's the easiest and least expensive tool to double flare 3/16" brake tubing I've ever found. I use copper/nickel line for its rust resistance and ease of routing and my old flaring tool with mandrels often makes the flare off-center and difficult to seat. When I use this tool, the flares are perfect every time. Do a search for Titan flaring tool and you'll find a bunch of sellers. This pic is from Speedway Motors.

Wayne

[ColoradoHawk]

I second the recommendation for this tool. I have one too, and every flare is easy to do and perfect.

[StudeRich]

Looks Very Different than most, but if it is THAT good, and better, it would be worth the Price, good stuff is NOT Cheap!