One solution that I've run into over the years is someone fixing studs to the hub with small welding spots. Balance might be off some (maybe), but look at the amount of weights in your pic on those drums. Most Stude drums look like that. I would guess out back, balancing at that amount may not even be noticeable....... or as has been said here: "your results may vary"......... Great quote.....
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Finned Front Brake Drums for V-8 64 Daytona
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I think you are talking about Machining the Brake Drums.
People/Mechanics/Machinists for Many years ave been Turning Drums up to 11 Inch diameter as much as .060-.070 oversize and installing them as usual with no issues, so no, you would have No way of shimming under your Linings on the Shoes anyway.StudeRich
Second Generation Stude Driver,
Proud '54 Starliner Owner
SDC Member Since 1967
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My assumption is that one advantage of the “swedging” process is that it pulls the hub as physically tight against the drum as possible.
A couple of years ago, I installed a set of NOS 11” front drums onto a pair of used hubs. I simply pressed in the new wheel studs and assumed it’d be okay. (And, yes, I know how to press in wheel studs the right way so that nothing gets bent or warped. On earlier Stude cars and pickup trucks where the hub mounts to the outside of the drum, the studs aren’t swedged and this same process works fine.)
The drums were so far out of balance that the car was undrivable. My best guess is that since the studs weren’t swedged, there was a slight gap between the hub and the drum which caused an out-of-round issue.
If your original drums are within spec, use them. And if they are worn out, I’d consider the readily available reproduction drum and hub assemblies being sold by the major Stude parts vendors.
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