Transmission / Overdrive: Hydraulic throw-out bearing

[what huh]

I have been doing research on hydraulic throw-out bearings. There is plenty of reading and watching to be had. Enough so that I think that I have thought all the way through it because the T-85 is pretty much a T-10 and there are loads of stuff for T-10. Then I got to thinking. Has anyone already put a hydraulic throw-out bearing on a T-85? What complications did you run in to?

I do have a used stock clutch fork and throw-out bearing which I could use cause its in decent shape, however Im not a fan of using used parts when it comes to something that is that deep inside of your drivetrain.

[StudeRich]

So what is wrong with just buying a new Throughout Bearing and welding the levers on the inside release Shaft to reinforce it ?
There is nothing else left to "Break" if all the outside levers and shafts are good.

The only Stude. owners I have heard of, that use hydraulic Clutch systems are those that do not have a Transmission that will FIT a Stude. like you do.
Just use available Stude. Parts that make your T-85 fit where a T-86 should be.

[PackardV8]

I have been doing research on hydraulic throw-out bearings. There is plenty of reading and watching to be had. Enough so that I think that I have thought all the way through it because the T-85 is pretty much a T-10 and there are loads of stuff for T-10. Then I got to thinking. Has anyone already put a hydraulic throw-out bearing on a T-85? What complications did you run in to?

I'm using a '90s Chevrolet truck hydraulic thowout bearing on the T85 behind the Packard V8 in my '55 E12. The Ford, GM and Studebaker front bearing retainer noses are all different diameters, so make sure the throwout bearing you choose has an ID which matches the nose.

FWIW, the OEM throwout bearing was $45 and those from Tilton an McLeod were more than $300. I haven't priced either lately.

You'll also need a braided stainless flex line which has the proper ends. Most OEMs these days are a push-on and of course the Stude master is a screw-in.

Pro tip - for the master cylinder, just buy another Studebaker brake master cylinder and some long bolts. It sits beside the existing one. Again, it is CASO priced, where the Tilton/Wilwood parts are serious bucks and require a custom mounting.

In my truck, I was able to turn the actuating rod 180-degrees so it pushes backward. Been so long since I've done one on a car and since C/K bodies are different than Larks and sedans, you'll have to puzzle that one out yourself.

jack vines

[bensherb]

I had planned to install a hydraulic clutch slave cylinder to the outside of the bell housing and push the stock clutch arm with it on my Hawk, primarily to reduce clutch pedal effort (bad knees). They're still quite common. But my trans came apart before I got to it, so I instead replaced it with a GM 4L60 AOD instead.

[what huh]

I'm using a '90s Chevrolet truck hydraulic thowout bearing on the T85 behind the Packard V8 in my '55 E12. The Ford, GM and Studebaker front bearing retainer noses are all different diameters, so make sure the throwout bearing you choose has an ID which matches the nose.

FWIW, the OEM throwout bearing was $45 and those from Tilton an McLeod were more than $300. I haven't priced either lately.

You'll also need a braided stainless flex line which has the proper ends. Most OEMs these days are a push-on and of course the Stude master is a screw-in.

Pro tip - for the master cylinder, just buy another Studebaker brake master cylinder and some long bolts. It sits beside the existing one. Again, it is CASO priced, where the Tilton/Wilwood parts are serious bucks and require a custom mounting.

In my truck, I was able to turn the actuating rod 180-degrees so it pushes backward. Been so long since I've done one on a car and since C/K bodies are different than Larks and sedans, you'll have to puzzle that one out yourself.

jack vines

Cool 90's truck is where Ill start and yes the McLeod options are approching $400 nowadays. Thanks for the Pro tips helps in putting the puzzle together.
Ill probably end up using a pedal assembly from Wilwood for this build once I get to that part. I am starting with a shell, seriously, nothing on this body ATM. If it can be bolted on its been taking off.

[what huh]

I had planned to install a hydraulic clutch slave cylinder to the outside of the bell housing and push the stock clutch arm with it on my Hawk, primarily to reduce clutch pedal effort (bad knees). They're still quite common. But my trans came apart before I got to it, so I instead replaced it with a GM 4L60 AOD instead.

I thought of this option as well. This is what Im familiar with and have serviced while building the other brand that I also like. I have those parts on the shelf as well but I think the ones I have are a bit to light duty and would require some engineering to affix them to the side of the trans. Its still on my options list however.

[bensherb]

I was going to make a bracket that would bolt to the belhousing flange to mount the slave to. It really shouldn't take much more than a thick angle bracket. Maybe with gusset behind it to fill the space between it and the belhousing if needed to control flex. Should be pretty simple.

[what huh]

So what is wrong with just buying a new Throughout Bearing and welding the levers on the inside release Shaft to reinforce it ?
There is nothing else left to "Break" if all the outside levers and shafts are good.

The only Stude. owners I have heard of, that use hydraulic Clutch systems are those that do not have a Transmission that will FIT a Stude. like you do.
Just use available Stude. Parts that make your T-85 fit where a T-86 should be.

Yes you are correct I could buy a new bearing for less the $100 like Jack pointed out. So the stock option is still on the table because it is tried and true.

Here are the other things that are factoring into my decision. I am starting from scratch and the only items I do have are the clutch fork and the TO bearing. No pedal assembly or linkages. I fell drivability can be gained and I like other options that will be gained by getting a new brake/clutch pedal assembly from a company like Wilwood because I also dont have a brake master and pedal.

By the time I acquire all these items I will be well on my way to putting a Hydraulic setup together. $400 for TO bearing, $400 for Brake and Clutch pedal assembly.