Brakes: 1950 Champion Disc Brake Conversion help

[Max]

Hey all,

My 1950 champion has bad brake problems, and its clear that its time for a disc brake conversion, at least on the front.

I'd like some ideas as to how others have done this? I know that Studebakerparts.com has a CHAMPION CAR DISC BRAKE KIT, but I also know there's a machining step I need to do to the hub and I'm not sure what that looks like.

Any tips or advice for finding disc brakes that would work and installing them are greatly appreciated!

I'll admit that this is my first project car and although I've gotten pretty far, there's still a lot to learn.

Thanks,
Max

[fpstude]

I installed a front disc brake system from Turner Brake on our 1950 Business Coupe. www.turnerbrake.com. 317/294-1492. It wasn't a walk in the park as there were steps I had not done before, but the results were good. The system is charged with fluid and ready to go, but the rest of the car is not finished yet. I also installed a dual master cylinder system.

[StudeRich]

On a relatively light, low powered Car like a 80 HP 169 C.I.D. Champion, another very good option would be a Later Studebaker Drum Brake conversion.
Either a '54 to '66 Champion or other 6 Cyl. Model 10 Inch Front, 9 Inch Rear Drum System or the '54 to '66 V8 11 Inch Front 10 Inch Rear, both are "Self Energizing", excellent Brakes More than enough for this Stude.

No Power Brake Units required and IMHO, No Dual Master Cylinder tubing nightmare under the floor is required either.

It will Stop on a Dime with change left over!

[Rafe Hollister]

I installed Turner Disc brake kit in my 56 Hawk. Its simple in concept, but more involved than you might think. No machining is necessary since there is an interference fit sleeve that is easily installed by heating it. The brake lines are the big bugger, proportioning valves, and getting it all hooked up was not hard, but did take some time. I went thru several brake line flare tools before I spent 50.00 on the Titan tool. A retired tractor mechanic friend with his SnapOn tool helped me. The Titan worked soo much better than his tool, I gave it to him for his help.
I spent a few hours trying to get the rubber line from caliper to brake line installed in such a way as not to contact tire, suspension, etc... It was not hard to do, just a lot of 'trial and success'.
Expect the brakes to be so much better than the drums, but they will still not be up to modern car standards. Maybe with a power assist they would, but I haven't done that yet.
During the job, I called Turner a few times for advice. Jim Turner either answered the phone or called me back. I can't say enough good about him or this conversion.
Rafe Hollister
1) Titan flare tool 2) Parts. 3) Installed. 4) Ready to go!

[Big Dan]

I've found in ALL of my restorations, that the job is ALWAYS easier and better if you have QUALITY TOOLS! And you should plan your budget for your restoration to either buy or rent those as needed.

[mbstude]

On a relatively light, low powered Car like a 80 HP 169 C.I.D. Champion, another very good option would be a Later Studebaker Drum

A 50 Champ has 4 lug wheels, all of the later cars have 5 lugs.

[Hugh]

If you get the Turner conversion, then you will need wheels not only with 5 lug holes, but the proper set back from the caliper to prevent rubbing the caliper. YOU MUST get the larger lug nuts to fit the wheels as the oem Stude lug nuts will not fit tightly. Also you will need the RIGHT hand nuts as Stude left side factory studs are left thread. this my Cmas gift from the wife for my 51 Commander

[Rafe Hollister]

irnv;lbdk;d

[Hugh]

Max, I am attaching a few photos of my 51 Commander installation. Have not been out with this yet. Still working on mc install.
Hugh

[Big Dan]

Man, does this bring back some memories!

[Topper2011]

Same here, but without the convenience of a lift!

[RadioRoy]

Most answers (other than Perry's and Matt's) seem to miss the point that the OP has a 1950 Champion. All the direct/easy/bolt-on solutions are for 1951 and newer.

1951 is the year that Studebaker finally settled on the front suspension system that would last more or less unchanged through 1966.

To accomplish the easy bolt on solutions from later cars, later spindles must be fitted in place of the shorter/smaller 1950 Champion spindles.

It would be interesting to see exactly what is included in the Turner system for 1950 Champions that gets around this problem.

[Big Dan]

An outstanding point!

[Hugh]

I could be wrong, I have been known to open and insert, but I believe Turner does not list the conversion for older than 1952, but he does have the 51 kit, and it seemed he had for older as well, call him

[6hk71400]

Our Chapter Secretary and Webmaster has a 1950 Champion Starlight that her husband installed a disc brake setup. He has a full equipped building on his property including a lift. As Roy pointed out, it is a 4 bolt wheel pattern and it has a different suspension from 1951 up to the end of production. Bart had a tough time but he did do a fantastic job. Bart also owns and maintains 2 Morgans and a Ferrari.

soazsdc.org is our website and there is on the home page a way to contact. Her name is Marg.

Bob Miles
Hope this helps

[rusty nut garage]

Turner Brakes does make a kit specifically for the 4 lug champion. You must use your existing hub and there is some machining that must be done. You can use your original wheels.


https://www.studebakerparts.com/stud...i?p_id=7&xm=on

BRK4102 CHAMPION CAR DISC BRAKE KIT


TURNER BRAKE CHAMPION CAR FRONT DISC BRAKE KIT FOR 1939-50 CHAMPION CARS WITH THE 4 BOLT LUG PATTERN, USES STOCK HUBS, STOCK BEARINGS AND FITS WITH STOCK WHEELS

[6hk71400]

Well that should be it. Russ can with a phone call explain the whole process

[Hugh]

Max, so glad I was wrong. I didn’t know for sure, thanks to rustynutgaragw we are ALL up to speed on this. Hugh

[hankrasco]

A little late to the party but here is my experience with the Turner kit. The rotors needed to be turned slightly on the inside diameter in order to mate nicely with the hubs. The substantial mounting brackets mount on the INSIDE of the spindles which are not flat. I ground the plates and added grade 8 lock washers as spacers. Simply adding more lock washers may have worked as well and eliminated the need for grinding.



The master cylinder brackets needed to be redrilled to line up with the pedal linkage.



I would advise anyone doing this installation to put the large caliper bolts on the bracket before installing it. On my car they would not go on after everything was assembled. I learned this after all the bolts were installed, torqued and Locktited.



I am more than happy with this kit and Jim Turner was more than helpful (and patient) in our phone conversations.

I hope this will do somebody some good.

Hank