Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

What BULK carburetor cleaner are you using?

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Fuel System: What BULK carburetor cleaner are you using?

    For the first time in a very long time, I have to re-build a carb which is in serious need of--to start things off--a basic cleaning, i.e., immersing it in a large container of cleaner.

    The last time I did this was on a 1979 Suburban's 4-bbl, and the cleaner was one of the most fantastic cleaners of all times: Turco. Turco could--and did--clean any carburetor, as weIl as take the paint off anything. I kept a gallon for years, but no longer have it.

    If it's still available under that name, I'm sure that the feds have 'de-fanged' Turco just as they have everything else which used to be very useful---and very potent.

    What do all you carburetor-rebuilders dunk your carbs in nowadays, overnight, before starting the serious 'watchmaker' part of the rebuild?

  • #2
    Jon,
    I don't recall the brand (Gunk maybe?) , but I do know I still find the odor for whatever reason, to be very close to an aphrodisiac.
    Miss the good old days.
    Bill

    Comment


    • Topper2011
      Topper2011 commented
      Editing a comment
      That and for some reason, the smell of a boiling tank for cleaning to engines remind me of auto shop.

  • #3
    This is what I have been using for many years https://www.berrymanproducts.com/pro...parts-cleaner/ It works good cleaning pistons too.

    Comment


    • #4
      Originally posted by enjenjo View Post
      This is what I have been using for many years https://www.berrymanproducts.com/pro...parts-cleaner/ It works good cleaning pistons too.
      I just rebuilt two Carte WEs and used this. It's not as potent as it was in the old days - like strong enough to shrivel up the skin on your hands if you got any on them. But if you let the parts sit in it overnight it will get them clean enough. One of my carbs I had to let sit over a couple days.

      The spray stuff is still full strength, so if you have some stubborn stuff or can't seem to get it all out of those little cracks and crevices, get a couple cans of the spray carb and choke cleaner and that will do the trick.

      Be sure to protect your face/eyes when you do that.

      Comment


      • #5
        Ah, good old Chem-tool. Used to be made by Berrymans. Takes almost a week to get the stink off of you, no matter how hard you scrub.

        Comment


        • Big Dan
          Big Dan commented
          Editing a comment
          That's because I've found that it will burn itself into your skin!

      • #6
        I've been using Pine-sol in my ultrasonic cleaner the last several years. But you can't just throw the carb in and leave it overnight. If left too long the carb will discolor. Also, it doesn't like zinc, so the higher the zinc content the more and faster it will discolor. I've even had it dissolve fittings that were zinc disguised as brass.

        Comment


        • #7
          Take a looks at bensherb's post (#6); it is very informative.

          1) The use of Pinesol.

          2) The possibility of damage due to a cleaning agent.

          3) On a (possibly ) personal note: I don't have an ultrasonic cleaner, so I must depend on "soaking" only--the only method I've ever used.

          Another question regards the use of something which comes up anecdotally...even here1...from time to time: the use of a (most often stated) 50-50 mix of acetone and ATF---
          Does anyone have any solid experience--regarding effectiveness--with this solution?
          Does anyone have experience with trying different ratios of ATF-to-acetone?

          This acetone/ATF-mix shows up often enough, in enough different places, to be more than just an 'urban legend', or hearsay.


          1 See jts359's response (#7) to cleaning pistons:
          "I recently cleaned the pistons on a Ford 347 and found that a 50/50 mix of acetone and atf did a pretty good job of cleaning them , I sprayed it on and let it sit for awhile , Ed"
          Last edited by jcharlestc; 10-25-2022, 12:02 PM.

          Comment


          • #8
            I used the 5 gallon buckets of carburetor cleaner for years. The stuff that, as said, shrivels your skin and smells that lingers on the skin for a long time. But, finally my last "good" can was rusting through the side and had lost its effectiveness. At work we have an 20 liter ultrasonic cleaner and a guy started cleaning carburetor parts in it using Simple Green/water mix. I'm sold. Very effective. It is a heated one. I just bought a 10 liter used unit off ebay for my own use. So far looking good. 5 gallons of the newer not so great stuff was more than buying the used ultrasonic. You can also buy a smaller new one at Harbor Freight. Check dimensions to make sure the carburetor you are wanting to clean will fit.

            I also use the 50/50 mix of Acetone and ATF on rusty fasteners. Seems to work good. I use Kroil also. As to other ratios, well, it's not like I used a graduated cylinder to measure the ATF and Acetone.... And at 100% ATF, I keep drained ATF (that still smells good) to soak rusty tools in.
            Frank DuVal

            50 Commander 4 door

            Comment


            • jcharlestc
              jcharlestc commented
              Editing a comment
              Many thanks for all the information
              Simple Green is my favorite for general cleaning and de-greasing; now I'll try it for carb work
              Regards...

          • #9
            I tried Simple green at full strength in my ultrasonic for cleaning carbs and no matter how long they were in it they did not come clean. It was as though they had soaked in water.

            I've also never had any luck or results from acetone and atf. There again, by time I get to the point of trying it, I've tried everything else. There is one thing I still have never got apart, no amount of heat, solvent, Liquid wrench, Kroil, oil, parafin, atf/acetone, acid or anything else has worked on it. The only way I can think to get it apart at this point is to cut it apart to salvage the large parts and make new small parts that I need to destroy to get it apart.

            Comment

            Working...
            X