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62 Studebaker Lark V8 Conversion

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  • buddymander
    replied
    Isn't there an 8.8 that bolts in from an explorer?

    Leave a comment:


  • Chucks Stude
    replied
    As 52 said. You gotta upgrade the rear end to a Dana 44, the rear end for a v-8 Studebaker. The Dana 27 that comes with the 6 cyl just will not handle the torque of the v-8, unless you are really going to baby this thing. Also, get some v-8 brakes. Needs this stuff, bad.

    Leave a comment:


  • buddymander
    replied
    nice simple mounts. I think I'm going to use that type in my 302/40 Nash

    Leave a comment:


  • acolds
    replied
    Nice looking job glad you use a real 289 even even if its the later Ford one as the Studebaker 289 came first The Ford engine has a lot of after market parts almost as many as the Chevy. Looks like it was worth the time and effort.

    Leave a comment:


  • 1962larksedan
    replied
    quote:Originally posted by buddymander

    nice job. looks like a stock oil filter. I bet that SBF weighs the same as the six did. What trans are you using? Those AOD's are a dime a dozen and would be great with the overdrive and low first gear. 85 to 94, I'm pretty sure are the best years. 95 went to computer controlled electric solenoids.
    Ford used a very short oil filter on the 1975-78 Mustang II V6 I believe..........which as the same thread diameter/pitch/gasket as a 302 (289)

    -------------------------------------------------------------------------
    Borrowed Bams50's sigline here:

    "Do they all not, by mere virtue of having survived as relics of a bygone era, amass a level of respect perhaps not accorded to them when they were new?"

    Leave a comment:


  • 52-fan
    replied
    Did you upgrade the rear end?


    1952 Champion Starlight, 1962 Daytona, both w/overdrive.Searcy,Arkansas
    "I may be lazy, but I'm not shiftless."

    Leave a comment:


  • buddymander
    replied
    nice job. looks like a stock oil filter. I bet that SBF weighs the same as the six did. What trans are you using? Those AOD's are a dime a dozen and would be great with the overdrive and low first gear. 85 to 94, I'm pretty sure are the best years. 95 went to computer controlled electric solenoids.

    Leave a comment:


  • stevemcstud
    replied
    I know it has been a while since I posted this but thought I would let you know how it was going. I got the engine installed, exhaust on, pretty much just a couple days work and drive line being cut from getting it running. Still have to rebuild the carb and exchange the electronic distributor I got for a new one (the one I bought was giving me no spark).

    I have been working on this since I was 13 so I am pretty excited (my grandfather gave the car to me and a lot of work has been put into it). I am 22 now and I am excited to take make some brackets in the back seat to mount the car seat to so that we can go on rides together.





    I had to flip the original mounts around and make this bracket. With the little help of an after market oil filter the 289 fit!



    Now just to put the front end back on, a little body work while I am at it and then off for one last paint job!

    Leave a comment:


  • Kurt
    replied
    Got it. Sent you email.

    66 Commander R1 Clone
    51 Commander 4dr

    Leave a comment:


  • ChampTrucking
    replied
    Kurt,sent you a private email.Please let me know if you do not receive it..Thanks.

    Leave a comment:


  • StudeRich
    replied
    Jeez Guys, I was able to say it right after Jack said they were welded, without all the SHOUTING!

    I tried to shoot him down EASY! Lol!

    QUOTE: "a very nice factory cast iron engine mount bracket that excepts a GM Engine Mount now available in aluminum from most of us Studebaker Vendors at studebakervendors.com to secure the front of the SBC engine to the front crossmember [u]by simply bolting it in!
    </u>
    And if you can find a used '65-'66 rear tubular crossmember, [u]it is a "Bolt-in"</u>, after adding a short ext. with only minor driveshaft, shifter & wiring issues with the right hand starter on the GM engine and left hand batt. on the Lark, all very easy stuff, but will add to the cost."

    Leave a comment:


  • Swifster
    replied
    Ease of conversion;

    1) Another 6 cylinder

    2) Studebaker V8

    3) Chevrolet Small Block

    4) Everything else...

    ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
    Tom - Mulberry, FL

    1964 Studebaker Daytona - 289 4V, 4-Speed (Cost To Date: $2125.60)

    Leave a comment:


  • Transtar60
    replied
    quote:Originally posted by PackardV8

    Hey Jack,

    Didnt used to be so easy to change fonts, type size etc
    Used to have to manually separate the codes for the different effects.
    Like this Then I finally figured out to highlight the text first.

    The stock Chevybaker engine frame mounts bolt onto the frame, they are not welded!
    quote:Finding the '65-66 V8 mounts and [u]welding</u> them in as about as difficult as the easy-to-fab SBF mounts. In the engine-swapping universe, either engine into a Lark is as easy as it can get.
    Thanks, Transtar60, I stand corrected, jack vines sorry there aren't any larger, brighter fonts, but I matched yours as best I could.

    PackardV8

    3E38
    4E2
    4E28
    5E13
    7E7
    8E7
    8E12
    8E28

    59 Lark
    etc

    Leave a comment:


  • 4-speed wagonaire
    replied
    quote:Originally posted by buddymander

    WE all know what a studebaker frame looks like. We needed to see the frame with the engine dropped in. But I have used the SBF in several frames, but not studebaker, so I'm familiar with their particular dimensions to a degree. I just recently put one in a 40 Nash. I used an aerostar front suspension and rack so I know about the oil filter interference. The 89 and up sbf used an oil filter relocater in the t-bird. My 88 cougar motor has rear sump; they're pretty common anymore. I just wonder how close the oil pump bump on the front of the pan will come to the bellcrank. That's my only concern. And I would try a short filter to clear the steering link before I used a relocater. There's going to be quite a bit of room there. Use one of fords AOD transmissions in it to make up for the low rear gear ratio. Nice car.
    Ford sells an adapter that was used on the Econoline vans to point the filter down. It can actually be rotated any direction to give room. I believe it is in the FRPP catalog.

    Bill, Many Fords and one great Stude!

    Leave a comment:


  • Dick Steinkamp
    replied
    quote:Originally posted by whacker

    That is a nice looking car! Have you thought about putting another Stude six into it? You should be able to get one pretty cheap. and putting it in would be a weekend job.
    That is the best idea. To switch to a Ford V8 and trans is not going to be easy. In addition, you will need at least the Stude V8 brakes and a V8 rear end.

    Dick Steinkamp
    Bellingham, WA

    [IMG][/IMG]

    Leave a comment:

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