Fuel System: How to adjust auto choke- 57 GoldenHawk/Stromberg WW

[bsrosell]

Hi,
next step in my series on getting my rebuilt system to start (and run) without having to stick my finger on the choke butterfly and manually open, and prevent running too rich.

I have a 57 Golden Hawk with the original Stromberg WW-6-121A carb.
I've modified it per Service bulletins with the 1/4" hole in the choke butterfly.
And per that service bulletin, the choke should be set 'with the indicator on the boss" (vs the 1-notch off in manual). Not a big deal.

In trying to start my rebuilt EVERYTHING for the first time, car would not start unless I opened the choke a bit by hand (was flooding), and then would not run unless I held choke open some more. After a long process of checking the fuel pressure, actually getting the carb rebuilt professionally, and then today checking and adjusting float to get proper fuel-level while running, everything checks out ok. But, engine still won't start, or run, without manually opening choke.

The engine starts right up AS LONG as I open that choke just a bit, and will run smooth AS LONG as I hold the choke open just a bit.
I realize thermostat springs can change some over time and these adjustments are not necessarily going to be 'factory' anymore. But mine seems WAY off.
THe photo below show two things:

The purple Sharpie mark on notches is where Daytona Carbs set it after rebuilding it (and, it apparently started and ran fine on their test-stand V8).

Where the indicator is now (or my best GUESS at what the indicator is, hardly a distinct 'arrow' there?) is about where it needs to be for it to start and idle. Albeit for short duration (radiator is off yet). Can it really be THIS far off from factory setting? It is 60F here in Minnesota today, so not the frigid temps when I was first asking you guys about the carb and choke two months ago :-)

Thoughts? How far should that choke plate be open when it has just started up? Bottom photo is where I have it to run smooth (again, 10-15 sec after starting, but now somewhat warm from running a few times earlier; can still almost hold my fingers on the cylinder heads without getting burned)

[StudeRich]

This may be a Dumb question, but is there a working Heat Riser Valve between the Right Exhaust Manifold & Exhaust Pipe to heat your Automatic Choke?

Why not forget those marks which will vary with the strength of the 60 year old Choke spring, and set the Butterfly opening per the Shop Manual setting or 1/8" to 3/16" Open?

Most of the Choke Cover Housings I have seen had a Straight UP mark at the Top, for setting the Cover marks to, and the Cover said: Rich<, Lean> I don't see that on this one.

The "Gasoline" section of the '56 Shop Manual explains how to set the Choke, Choke Unloader and Fast Idle adjustments on the 6-117 which SHOULD be good enough, because the 1957 Supplement does not cover Choke Adjustments on the 6-121 Stromberg used on Supercharged Cars, likely because it is the same as already covered in the Basic '56 Manual.

[jackb]

If the car cannot reach operating temps right now, keep this in mind as you go forward. I have always had good luck with setting the choke valve to straight up vertical when 160+ degrees. Loosen screws and rotate til "just" straight up from choke position.. Sometimes this will not give you the best cold start during all temps. You do want to end up with a vertical valve when down the road, hot.

[bsrosell]

StudeRich,
my cover does have the "RICH" mark, was just hidden by the stove-pipe insulation. by process of elimination I decided that 'mark' must be the "arrow". Maybe someone "pricked" mine (and made it harder rather than easier). Regardless, thanks for the tip on practical setting method; indeed I only referenced the 57 Supplement and Service bulletins which all just reference the dial marks. I'll go back to the Fuel section; I KNEW I'd read a more practical approach somewhere at some time!

-yes, have a brand new heat-riser put in. Not that it is playing a role in my brief "start and idle" shots now. Next step is plumbing up my tranny and radiator, and actually DO the proper run-in. It now runs well enough I know I can do that. And also much tweaking in my future I'm sure w/ SC & Box added to the equation, and re-setting everything at proper RPMs, etc..

Jack, thanks; the Daytona rebuilder suggested (probably? ) similar, that it choke should be fully open after 5 (or 10?) minutes.

Bottomline, thanks both of you for confirming its another "simply need to be where it needs to be", and not necessarily going to be at or near the notch references. (ie: not something else screwed up I missed :-) I'm pretty pleased with how smooth it runs, 11 years later doing all the rebuild of sub-systems myself (and NEVER having heard this engine run, didn't run when i got it!).

Really hard to turn that key off after 30 seconds or so, great fun to finally hear it purr! Motivated to plumb up that radiator and Just enjoy that 20min run-in; what a milestone (for me) that will be!

[altair]

These are photos of a WW Stromberg that I have and the choke assembly appears different, could yours be upside down?

[StudeRich]

Looks like the Newer Type '59-'64, with the down draft Top, a '57 has a Rear Draft Top and a High mounted choke, quite a bit different.

[doofus]

Barry, nice going, dont forget to brace that rad so it doesnt get sucked into the fan! Luck Doofus

[tsenecal]

If you're not ready for a good warm-up/longer run time, I would just rotate the choke adjustment till it stayed open for now. Later when you have it all set up for a good run up to operating temp, you can work on the choke adjustment.

[Jeffry Cassel]

Check the unloader setting; I don't remember what it should be now but is some where in the 3/16" vicinity. I found on mine that it is very fussy and I had to take the bonnet off and tweak it just a bit. A little bit lean and it wouldn't idle cold and a little too rich and it would load up. Just keep adjusting choke 'til you get there.

[bsrosell]

Thanks all. Yes Jeff, all that stuff I was so finicky with to try and set up correctly when I rebuilt it. And likely won't bother with now until someday it has a body and it all MEANS something. After the float-offset being SO far from spec, I'm not assuming the 'set-up" is all done and complete. Their V8 isn't a 289 or supercharged, so just meant to "prove it runs and is close". I'm satisifed now everything is "good" w/ fuel pump and carb. Don't regret sending it out to Daytona; they certainly sent it back sparking inside and out; I had not removed "plugs" to manually clean all the passages, and it apparently needed it. Also got some new linkages (replacing WIRES), and several helicoils that were nearly stripped. Now to find time to plumb up the tranny/radiator (and yes Doofus, I've got a strap-iron from frame to radiator saddle :-) Thanks for the tip. THAT would be a miserable day.....!!
Thanks!
Barry