Transmission / Overdrive: Adjusting a new Hurst shifter

[blackhawk]

I recently installed a Hurst Competition Plus shifter in my '63 Hawk. Although I have used one for years in my ’64 Cruiser, I did not install that one and it had received many years of use before I inherited the car from my father. The Hurst shifter that I put in the Hawk is the first new one that I have installed. The shifter in the Cruiser shifts easily into all gears. The new one in the Hawk does not, especially when shifting into reverse. I adjusted the shifter arms using the neutral alignment rod as described in the Hurst installation instructions. The 1-2 and 3-4 shifts are okay, but not super smooth like the shifter in the Cruiser. Also, when the lever is pulled to the left to engage reverse, it feels like the lever hits an obstacle that it has to slide past. Adjusting the button on the reverse rod forward or back only makes the problem worse. So, Is there a break-in period for these shifters? If not, can anyone tell me what I can do to fix this problem?

Thanks,
Dale

[ColoradoHawk]

From your description it sounds like you’ve gone about the adjustments correctly.
Take a look at the rubber insulator underneath the bellhousing (transmission mount). If the rubber is badly deteriorated like I think it is, that will give you the problems that you’re having.
Also, is the lubricant in the transmission at the correct level? When it gets low it makes shifts more difficult too.

[blackhawk]

ColoradoHawk, thanks for your reply. I haven't checked the transmission fluid level yet, but I doubt that it is low since the car has been in my garage all these years and there isn't a puddle of gear oil under the transmission. However, I plan to drain and refill the transmission before using the car, since that fluid has been in there for 20 years. I guess I am not so concerned about the less than perfect shifting into all the gears. I think that will smooth out after the gear oil is changed and the car is put in use. The car sat unused for 18 years and no shifting has been done exept to install and adjust the Hurst shifter. My main concern is the resistance to moving the shifter handle to the left in neutral into the reverse position. The handle moves freely in neutral until it encounters the spring that has to be compressed to get into the reverse position. At that point it hits something solid, but pulling harder gets the handle past it. This suggests that the levers on the shifter are not properly aligned, yet I can easily insert the neutral alignment rod in the slot in all three levers. Once the shift handle is all the way to the left, it is easy to move the handle forward, putting the transmission into reverse. You can see why this baffles me. The neutral alignment rod idicates that the three levers are properly adjusted, yet when I try to actually move the shifter handle through the gears, it acts like they are not properly adjusted. So far, I have only experimented with lengthening or shortening the reverse rod. Maybe the problem is one or both of the other shift rods.

Dale

[JoeHall]

Sounds like your 63GT has a T10 four speed, so all forward gears should be synchronized and easy to shift in and out, with motor running. With motor shut off, not so much. As for the problem with reverse, I'd check the shifter on a bench, clamped in a vice, to eyeball all moving parts, as they're moving. Would also check the transmission levers, with shifter removed, and see if is goes smoothly in and out of reverse. I have installed a couple of those shifters, first made by Hurst then later copied by Mr. Gasket and others. Mine were all 3-speeds though (T85/T89). Each install, I did not use all parts that came with the kit, but a combo of the kit parts and OEM. Pretty sure I kept the OEM levers on the transmission, because the rubber bushings make the hand lever feel smoother when shifting. It should be an easy install, but I recall having to fool with each one for several hours before satisfied. Once set up properly, they shift smooth as silk, in and out of all gears.

With yours, I'd first determine whether the reverse hangup is coming from the transmission or the shifter. Probably the shifter, unless the T10 has been severely abused. I am currently rebuilding a T89, and several parts interchange with T10, and they sure are beefy inside. In this T89, the reverse cogs are all as new, including idler, cluster gear, and reverse gear. Yours likely is too, since we don't normally wear out reverse. Another possibility is the shifter has a flaw, and you may have to do some filing, or custom bending. I'd be surprised at nothing. Hang in there and don't settle for anything less than perfection!

[JoeHall]

Dale, you mentioned changing gear oil in the transmission; I will say, hands down, Red Line MT90 will make it shift smoother, even when cold, than anything else on the market. Ted Harbit mentioned here about 15 years ago, he uses it in his race car. I figured if it's good enough for Ted it's good enough for me, tried it, and will never use anything else. It used to say on the label it's safe for older transmissions with bronze / brass synchronizers, but it's not on newer labels. I recently talked to a Red Line tech rep on their tech line, and he said all their gear oils now have additives that make them safe for the old synchronizers, including GL5, unless it says specifically otherwise on the label. The MT90 works well here in Kentucky, but if I lived in the desert again, I'd probably switch to something heavier, like their 'ShockProof' blend. I'd think the MT90 would be especially beneficial if living in Alaska.

[blackhawk]

Thanks for all the input, Joe. Yes, my Hawk was factory equipped with a T-10 4-speed. I bought the car used in 1970 and have never had the transmission apart, so I don't know it's condition inside. It did shift okay though with the factory mystery shifter. I've run Amsoil 75-90 gear oil in it since 1989, most recently changed in 2002. The Hurst Competition Plus shifter that I have installed is a new unit, purchased in 2003. I haven't tried shifting the transmission with the engine running. You're right. That should make a difference. There are two things going on. One is the actual movement into gear. It does shift into all gears, just not "smooth as silk." I'm thinking that will rectify itself with new gear lube and some use, since the car sat undriven for 18 years. The other, more pressing matter, is the difficulty moving the shift levering neutral over to the reverse position. It feels like it is hitting something. I think that has to be an adjustment/alignment issue. I have already tried adjusting the length of the reverse shift rod to no avail. I'm really tired of crawling under there and dinking with this thing, but I suppose I need to give it another go. This time I will try lengthening the 1 - 2 and 3 - 4 shift rods a little bit. I'll let you know how it goes.

Dale

[64studeavanti]

Just something to try: remove the shift rods and insert the neutral alignment pin and see if you can push it over to engage the reverse lever. That will let you know if the shifter is ok.

[blackhawk]

It is a real pain to remove those shift rods! The ends are so close together. But, by now I have done it so many times that I've gotten pretty good at doing it.

[64studeavanti]

Just saw your last post. The 1-2 and 3-4 rods do need to be set correctly to engage reverse. Make sure you can push it over to engage the reverse rod with the rods disconnected and the neutral alignment pin installed. Install the rods with the pin in place to ensure that all levers and spacers are properly aligned. The tension of the rods keeps the alignment.

Are the bushings for the shift levers good?

[blackhawk]

Just saw your last post. The 1-2 and 3-4 rods do need to be set correctly to engage reverse. Make sure you can push it over to engage the reverse rod with the rods disconnected and the neutral alignment pin installed.

Thanks, I don't remember trying that.

Install the rods with the pin in place to ensure that all levers and spacers are properly aligned. The tension of the rods keeps the alignment.

I did that.

Are the bushings for the shift levers good?

Yes, all parts are new.

Thanks,
Dale

[blackhawk]

To followup on my earlier post... I removed all the shift rods as suggested and, yes, the shifter goes into the reverse position with the rods disconnected and the neutral alignment pin installed. Then, I removed the shifter and put it in a vise. I could not find anything wrong with it. So, I reinstalled the shifter and adjusted the rods again with the neutral alignment pin in place. I have concluded that what I perceive as excessive resistance to moving the lever left in neutral to the reverse position is due to it being new. I am going to use it for awhile and see if it gets easier over time. Thanks, everyone, for all the assistance.

Dale