Fuel System: 1958 studebaker 289 engine fuel pump problem

[aftontrix]

About ten years ago I installed a Carter M2211 I purchased at NAPA . No problem installing it. It started leaking recently so I purchased the same pump again at NAPA.
I installed the new pump but it does not pump any gas into my transparent fuel filter. I then took the new pump off thinking it was probably defective. I put the old pump back on and it does not work either. It was working when I took it off. The tank is full.
I must be doing something wrong. Is it possible I am not installing the pump correctly. Could I be installing the actuating arm wrong. Any advice will be appreciated.

[Dean McHenry]

The new pump is a bit of china rubbish
If you compare them you will find that the arm is the wrong shape and angle and does not contact the cam. I ended up swapping the arm out of my old one to get it to work. Buy one from our trusted vendors and your odds will go up. DMc

[StudeRich]

FUEL SYSTEM SDC Member NOTICE:

The latest crop of Imported AC Type Airtex, NAPA, Carter, Master or whatever they "Name" them, are all the same, NONE are real Carter.
They actually DO NOT work out of the Box, the Actuator Lever has the wrong ANGLE to get the proper stroke to pump.

It's NOT you or your Car, it's the Chinese Junk!
The Studebaker Vendors have had to Stop selling the "Replacement" Pumps, they have been returned as defective.

The ONLY Good ones are the Original OEM Carter Glass Filter Bowl and Metal Filter Bowl Pumps that can be rebuilt with Ethanol resistant repair Kits and the New actual Carter Super Pumps as used on Avanti and modified from the Chrysler Version to Studebaker version for ALL '55 to '64 V8's by Studebaker Vendors.

[aftontrix]

Thanks for the info. The new pump looks exactly the same as the old one which lasted 10 years. Same length, angle, everything. As I stated the old one is also not working now. I do not understand that.

[Videoranger]

make sure push rod is in position to pump the arm as you assemble. see video:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v6UGEpgOUqg

there's other videos on youtube that cover mechanical type of pump installation too.

[64studeavanti]

When you install, angle the arm downward to ensure that the arm is beneath the cam. You should feel a little pressure as you rotate it upward into place. Otherwise, the arm rides on top of the cam and will not work.

[Videoranger]

that should work, wasn't sure if Studes used push rod or cam lobe for pump. I never changed mine yet.

[StudeRich]

Two possibilities:

1. You did NOT get the Lever UNDER the Camshaft Lobe.

2. It now has a Torn Diaphragm and finally Quit, maybe because you worked it Dry in the R & R process and it's maybe 20 + Years Old.

Either way a New one will be needed, see Paragraph 3, Post #3.

Your Pumps are the AC/Airtex Style, NOT Carter Design.


This is the Current version of the Airtex....................A late Style Real Carter..............................................The Airtex on the Left has the Wrong Angle, on the Right is Correct.

You can always easily spot a Non-Carter Pump, regardless of the Version through the Years or the Brand Name.
The AC and Airtex have the Laminated, Riveted Plates for a Actuator Lever, Carters use a "U" Channel.

Carter design Pumps have a Glass Filter Bowl with a Stone Filter on the Early Type '55 to about '62 OR the Metal Bowl with the Cellulose Filter Element on '63 & '64.

Any Fool can see, if you start the Lever at Half Stroke Range, all you have is a Half Stroke or less left to pump the fuel. .

[Videoranger]

"Any Fool can see",
I resemble that remark........

[StudeRich]

This Post #3 and OR #8 should be Sticky's so that the Multiple Members having this Same Problem in the last Year or so, will be aware not to go on Amazon for a Cheap replacement only to find out it does not work.

Funny, but, Please try to keep this String on Topic, THIS definitely is no Joke.

[swvalcon]

If these are that bad you would think someone would step up and have the right pump built here and then sell them to all the other venders. A few bucks more if it is a quality unit and made in the USA would be worth it.

[Videoranger]

aftontrix, were you able to diagnose and fix the issue with the non-pumping fuel pumps?

[Lark Hunter]

A few bucks more if it is a quality unit and made in the USA would be worth it.

Fully agree.

[Jeffry Cassel]

This comes up again and again. Replacement fuel pumps are just crap!! I replaced the fuel pump in my wife's 61 Hawk 5 times (guess I am a slow learner!) She sold it and bought a 62 that is such a nice car. It is ALWAYS better to rebuild the original equipment Carter pump that to buy a pos replacement. Check with vendors or I have had local mechanic do it ( for $25) or Terrill Machine in DeLeon, Texas does a nice job and is fairly quick. I've installed several backup electric pumps and on 2 occasions I have had to use them. Never, ever throw a Carter core away!!

[aftontrix]

Well, I am about to give up. I have put on and taken off both the old and the new pump about three times each and cannot get either one to work. I can't understand that as the old one was working when I took it off. When I installed the old pump ten years ago, I had no trouble at all.

I took a hand pump and connected it to the end of the fuel line that connects to the fuel pump. It pulled fuel from the tank with no effort at all.

I would also turn the engine over and stick the pump back in the hole trying to feel the "lobe". I did this numerous times but never did find a position where the arm of the pump encountered resistance.

Surely that flimsy pump arm could not have damaged the lobe.

I can work both the old and new pump by hand and feel they both have suction.

Anyone have any ideas.

Thanks