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1950 Studebaker Commander brake shoes

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  • Brakes: 1950 Studebaker Commander brake shoes

    I was told that 1957 GMC truck brake (much more available) will fit a 1950 Studebaker Commander. Has anyone out there had experience with this application? TY!

  • #2
    Why not look up the numbers in the chassis parts catalog and buy the parts from one of our great Studebaker vendors?

    You can get everything you need in one place and it will be the right stuff.


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    • #3
      Alternatively, many of our vendors have the facility to reline your existing shoes.
      Dave Thibeault (T-bow) for one, close to you in Maynard, MA.
      Brad Johnson,
      SDC since 1975, ASC since 1990
      Pine Grove Mills, Pa.
      '33 Rockne 10, '51 Commander Starlight. '53 Commander Starlight
      '56 Sky Hawk in process

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      • #4
        Here's the problem; I don't have any shoes to supply for the core charge. My project was missing the rear shoes! Hoping to avoid the $100 core charge. BTW, I DO patronize both Stephen Allen and Stude International with great success.

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        • #5
          Quick question: Are the Relined Shoes Bonded, or Riveted?

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          • #6
            ??? I don't have them. How can I tell?

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            • #7
              Don't take the other side apart until you get the new parts. You may need to refer to it. Or maybe that side is assembled incorrectly.

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              • #8
                Originally posted by Corbinstein0 View Post
                Quick question: Are the Relined Shoes Bonded, or Riveted?
                Most Studebaker Vendor supplied relined Brake Shoes come in Bonded unless you order Riveted, if available.
                And then too, it matters WHICH Brake Shoes for what Year and Model YOU are talking about.

                In over 50 years driving Studebaker's I have NEVER had a Bonded Brake Lining come loose from the Shoe, on a regularly DRIVEN Car.

                But on the other hand, I have bought plenty of rusty Junkers left in a Field to rust and rot in the rain and Snow, that when you turn a Wheel, or try to Pull a Drum, will break the Bonded Linings off of the rusted Shoes or already be at the bottom of the Drum.

                Both type work pretty well with Riveted usually being a little softer and easier on rare Drums, but Bonded have more Braking Surface.
                StudeRich
                Second Generation Stude Driver,
                Proud '54 Starliner Owner
                SDC Member Since 1967

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                • #9
                  Bonded are essentially "Glued on". Riveted have a series of holes drilled in the face, and rivets countersunk in there.
                  I had a fairly new set come apart on me (Bonded) back about 15 years ago. Had them done in Nashville about 5 years before that.

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