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Overheating Custom Restored Studebaker C Cab Truck - 76 Camaro Front/Rear Chevy 350 Engine

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  • #31
    But...a more open radiator surface exposure would give the whole radiator surface an opportunity to exchange heat in an airflow even if diminished on its perimeter. In this particular vehicle, the fan casement reduces the open surface area. Couple that with the added duty of the air conditioner and (depending on the density of the fins on that condenser), it could mean the difference in heat exchange rate required for this truck in his part of the country on hot days. If you consider the engine-mounted fan on Hawks, the shroud itself allows airflow to the entire surface of the radiator and funnels it down just enough to flood air over the engine block on out the underside of the firewall and underneath the vehicle. For the most part, a good linear flow.
    John Clary
    Greer, SC

    SDC member since 1975

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    • #32
      Mr. Clary - I agree with all of your last post.

      Since he mentioned that he has a lot of underhood temperature, that is probably primarily from his exhaust headers and not radiator.
      Gary L.
      Wappinger, NY

      SDC member since 1968
      Studebaker enthusiast much longer

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      • #33
        Hi jclary! - regarding your concern that 'the fan housing itself looks to be blocking off a huge portion of your radiator surface'..........here is a view of the intake side of my fan housing...the side that is mounted to the rear of the radiator. As you can see there is no fan housing surface blocking air flow from the radiator through the fan. My estimation is that the fan housing covers 94% of the radiator core area. As for turbulent air, I plan to take some air speed and temperature measurements to get a better idea of what is going on under the hood. I'll be back eventually with those measurements.

        Click image for larger version

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        • #34
          OK on to the next step in sorting out my overheating problem. I made a cardboard "shroud" prototype to block heat coming over the top of, and into the front of, the radiator. It probably closes off 98% of the area where hot air could get in. It is held together with high temperature adhesive. Not pretty but it will serve the purpose. Next I will take it for a drive to heat the engine up, and then stop with the engine running (and the hood down) and see if it overheats as before. If this is successful I'll have a nicer shroud made of polished aluminum. Click image for larger version  Name:	20201122_135410.jpg Views:	0 Size:	86.6 KB ID:	1866506Click image for larger version  Name:	20201122_135353.jpg Views:	0 Size:	104.7 KB ID:	1866503Click image for larger version  Name:	20201122_135430.jpg Views:	0 Size:	131.0 KB ID:	1866504Click image for larger version  Name:	20201122_135315.jpg Views:	0 Size:	125.0 KB ID:	1866505
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          • #35
            Originally posted by tsenecal View Post
            Some racers just run a large washer in place of the T-stat. The hole size can be varied to restrict flow, but it is something that won't stick closed in the middle of a race.
            I would not do this for the street. It is not good for your engine to run too cool.
            Diesel loving, autocrossing, Coupe express loving, Grandpa Architect.

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            • #36
              Originally posted by t walgamuth View Post

              I would not do this for the street. It is not good for your engine to run too cool.
              Agree, try one of these if you are worried about closing on failure.

              https://www.autozone.com/cooling-hea...180/139156_0_0

              Bob

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              • #37
                One thing to check is your fuel ratio and timing. Notice you are using a hot coil and aftermarket distributor. The distributor spark curve might be set for a track performance, and you are using it as a cruiser. Do you know what the max advance is on your setup?

                As for fuel ratios, If you are running on the lean side, you will get higher temps.

                Your cooling system looks like it should do the job(without the front shroud), and the electric fans will pull the air just fine, but if the engine is heating it faster than it can be cooled, then you have to change the balance.

                Also you have a good gap between the radiator and AC condenser. You might want to seal that gap more, as your fans are pulling air through your radiator, but really not much through the condenser. In your picture your show 5/8 gap, and that should be sealed..

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                Last edited by SScopelli; 11-23-2020, 11:45 AM.

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