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  • Wheels / Tires: Broken wheel bolt

    I've just been notified of an issue with my Sky Hawk by my shop, Chargem and Bleedem, that a wheel bolt is broken. I have been hearing a kind of scraping sound from that direction, and I need to know two things: 1: how dangerous is this condition and should I stop driving the car, and 2: what's involved with the repair or replacement? I breathlessly await your sage and Knowledgeable counsel.
    peter lee

  • #2
    I have seen cars driving around with 2 lug nuts missing. I have also seen loose wheels bounding down the highway. I would consider this an urgent but not critical situation. I assume you have a broken stud. The fix is to press out the old stud and press in a new one. This is complicated a bit if you have tapered axles with the brake drums swaged on. Search the forums and you will find a lot of discussion about this.

    Nathan
    _______________

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    • #3
      The studs are readily available individually; and a shop other than Chargem & Bleedem should have no trouble doing the job.
      I would have them check the wheel for possible damage; and perhaps the drum.
      Brad Johnson,
      SDC since 1975, ASC since 1990
      Pine Grove Mills, Pa.
      '33 Rockne 10, '51 Commander Starlight. '53 Commander Starlight
      '56 Sky Hawk in process

      Comment


      • #4
        Is the broken stud on the left side and do they know those are left hand thread? Was the stud broken before the car went in the shop? The noise needs to be investigated before driving very far. It is hard to give much advice about a sound without hearing it.
        "In the heart of Arkansas."
        Searcy, Arkansas
        1952 Commander 2 door. Really fine 259.
        1952 2R pickup

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        • #5
          Originally posted by 52-fan View Post
          Is the broken stud on the left side and do they know those are left hand thread? Was the stud broken before the car went in the shop? The noise needs to be investigated before driving very far. It is hard to give much advice about a sound without hearing it.
          That's a good point and I was thinking the same thing. One other possibility (I had it happen on my '48 champion) is a failed brake drum flange where cracks had formed at the stud splines and spider-webbed outward from the stud holes. When that happens, the flange of the brake drum will flex and create noise as it rotates. The problem is that the cracks are hard to see when the wheel is removed because the cracks are difficult to see. I found mine by putting a little pressure on the drum trying to check wheel bearing play with the wheel off the car. I suppose you could use magnaflux and expose any cracks, but I happened to notice the cracks in mine without having to do that.
          John Clary
          Greer, SC

          SDC member since 1975

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by 52-fan View Post
            Is the broken stud on the left side and do they know those are left hand thread?
            Good point!
            As the old saying goes; on the left side, lefty tighty, righty loosey.

            Many right threaded studs are not stamped on the end; but I believe all left threaded studs are.
            Many people, even six or seven decades ago, were not aware of the right and left variation.
            Big trucks STILL use left threads on the left studs.

            Click image for larger version

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            Last edited by rockne10; 09-14-2020, 03:18 PM.
            Brad Johnson,
            SDC since 1975, ASC since 1990
            Pine Grove Mills, Pa.
            '33 Rockne 10, '51 Commander Starlight. '53 Commander Starlight
            '56 Sky Hawk in process

            Comment


            • #7
              Makes one wonder, as 52-fan was asking... Did the broken stud occur at the shop, where they may have been blasting the left handed thread with an impact wrench trying to get it off (actually tightening) and sheared it?
              In any case, needs to be fixed.
              -Matt

              1963 GT Hawk
              1960 Metropolitan Convertible
              1972 AMC Javelin/ AMX
              1956 Cushman Eagle

              Comment


              • #8
                Don't trust tire shops and mechanics! Years ago we went on a family vacation in our Ford CV wagon. Had local tire guy rotate and balance the wheels. It shook all the way to Alabama. My father in law knew a good guy out in the boonies. He found 2 or 3 broken bolts on every wheel and the remaining ones tightened to over 200 ft lbs! Used his entire supply of lug bolts to replace them all. The local guy could have killed us! (and the wheels weren't balanced correctly either.) Very common to have some born yesterday dropout doper try to remove left hand lug nuts by turning them ccw. That is why they are stamped 'L'

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                • #9
                  Does anyone know of a mechanic that can repair a broken lug stud? This is for a 1941 Champion. I watched a video on youtube where this machinist drills out the swedging & then puts this custom jig under the hub & drum to prevent it from being crushed as he pushes the lug stud out with a press. Any recommendations would be greatly appreciated...

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by stradvonzarovich View Post
                    Does anyone know of a mechanic that can repair a broken lug stud? This is for a 1941 Champion. I watched a video on youtube where this machinist drills out the swedging & then puts this custom jig under the hub & drum to prevent it from being crushed as he pushes the lug stud out with a press. Any recommendations would be greatly appreciated...
                    A ‘41 model doesn’t have swedged lug studs. They’re a press fit.

                    Just be sure to support the drum / hub in a way so that nothing gets distorted when the studs are pressed in and out.

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                    • #11
                      If there is one broken stud, check the rest for cracks, and replace any that have them.. When in doubt, replace. A hub or brake drum which is cracked must be replaced, preferably before the car is driven again.
                      Bill Jarvis

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by mbstude View Post
                        A ‘41 model doesn’t have swedged lug studs. They’re a press fit.
                        That is really good news. Are you sure about that? I have a couple mildly boogered studs I would really like to replace and I have been dreading it.

                        Nathan
                        _______________

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Originally posted by Greenstude View Post
                          If there is one broken stud, check the rest for cracks, and replace any that have them.. When in doubt, replace. A hub or brake drum which is cracked must be replaced, preferably before the car is driven again.
                          Agree, the shop idiot who ruined the one stud may well have damaged the others also.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            A ‘41 model doesn’t have swedged lug studs. They’re a press fit.
                            Originally posted by nvonada View Post
                            That is really good news. Are you sure about that? I have a couple mildly boogered studs I would really like to replace and I have been dreading it. Nathan
                            Take nothing for granted on an eighty-year-old Studebaker. Have someone who knows confirm yours are original. I can't count the "bitsa" cars and engines I've seen with the most unlikely amalgam of parts all flying in loose formation.

                            jack vines
                            PackardV8

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                            • #15
                              so it's worth asking the question...... Which wheel? Driver's side, Passenger, Front Or Rear?
                              this will change the dynamic of the thread some.....

                              ie, most Driver's side will be left hand thread and rears require removal of the drum with a special puller just to get at it.

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