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Truck chassis swap?

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  • #16
    Originally posted by sweetolbob View Post

    Again to credit Bob Johnstone's site for a massive accumulation of Stude/Avanti knowledge. Here's his Aerostar conversion page.

    https://studebaker-info.org/Tech/Fra.../aerosusp.html

    Bob


    Interesting read, thanks for the link
    Last edited by what huh; 07-25-2020, 12:19 PM.
    Charles

    1961 Lark Regal VIII 259/auto -- Lucy

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    • #17
      Ford Crown Vic suspensions also are a bolt in type of suspension crossmember. Don't know if they have been tried.
      Bez Auto Alchemy
      573-318-8948
      http://bezautoalchemy.com


      "Don't believe every internet quote" Abe Lincoln

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      • #18
        Originally posted by bezhawk View Post
        Ford Crown Vic suspensions also are a bolt in type of suspension crossmember. Don't know if they have been tried.
        Yes, the Crown Vic bolts in, however, the track width is 63.4" versus 60" for most C-cabs. With the correct offset wheels it could be made to work.

        jack vines
        PackardV8

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        • #19
          Since bezhawk brought it up I feel impressed to share my experiences with this. I was originally going to do a mopar graft but I was also informed about this Aerostar swap. (Thanks jack vines) I’m in the thick of mine and can provide pics if anyone cares to see them. I am also interested in seeing pics if anyone has done a crown Vic front end.

          the areostar front end if bolted directly to the bottom of the studebaker frame will lift the nose of the truck approx 2”. The bob Johnstone page is helpful and the pics there do help out a lot. However after careful study there are a ton of hidden things. 2 Examples: first, the very last picture on that page shows to be what looks like a ford motor (Maybe early 90’s 5.0) on a stude frame: looking closely those black square tubes are bolted to the top of those frame rails to get the nose of the truck down. The second is the second to last picture shows clearance between steering shaft and motor: in this pic the stude engine being shown has “car” motor mounts. The truck ones will close things up a bit more.

          I have also looked for those square tubes to bolt mine together but I was unable to find them anywhere. There is also a spacer/rack mounter found in the first frame pic (the birds eye) that I couldn’t find either.

          For my personal project I have taken 2-1/4” out of my front frame rails and reboxed everything with 3/16 plate on sides and 1/4 strap on bottom. I have also made cardboard templates of EVERYTHING

          let me know if you are interested
          Last edited by thehotrodder; 07-26-2020, 12:41 PM.

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          • #20
            The 51 2r5 I bought had a 2nd gen Camaro front clip and a Camaro rear diff with disc brakes from an early firebird, I put Viking coil overs on the front and changed the leaf springs for a 4 link with coil overs.
            the frame was boxed and I added a 1 3/4 dom tube across the frame just ahead of the dig.
            The truck drives and handles great the suspension is plush for a truck.
            if I had to do it again I would still use the original frame.
            good luck!!
            paul

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            • #21
              For a while, the solution was the transverse torsion bar suspension on the Mopar F, M and J bodies.
              Tom - Bradenton, FL

              1964 Studebaker Daytona - 289 4V, 4-Speed (Cost To Date: $2514.10)
              1964 Studebaker Commander - 170 1V, 3-Speed w/OD

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