The 6 volt battery in our 1950 Champion is 9"long X 7" wide X 8" high. A common choice for a 12 volt battery is a size 24, used in our Lark and Hawk, that is the same width and height, but 11 inches long. Have other folks used a 12 volt battery that would fit in the same 6 volt "battery box"? The battery box has been removed from the inner fender and could be fairly easily made longer and mounted in the same location. However, a drop in 12 volt that is strong enough would be a good choice.
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'50 Champion 6V - 12V Battery Choices
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Electrical: '50 Champion 6V - 12V Battery Choices
Perry
\'50 Business Champion
\'50 Starlight Champion
\'60 Lark Convertible,
\'63 GT R1,
\'67 Triumph TR4ATags: None
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I would not go to a lower Cranking AMPS and or Cold Cranking Amps, than a Group 24 on the smaller Car Batteries.
You MAY find one that is at least 750 CCA in some smaller sizes and Battery Lines.
Good Batteries usually come in several "Lines" i.e. :Sears Die Hard "Silver" or "Gold" etc. with different ratings.
Also, the Length of the Warranty tells you which is the better quality, longest lasting choice.
Keep in mind, that IF you can find one that is 8 Inches High, your Box and Hold Down will fit correctly.
I just like things looking a little more like Studebaker would have, could have done it, looking.
I had 2 Inches added to the Length of my '54 Battery Box. On some Models like '53-'55 C & K you can replace the Box with a 1956 11 Inch one. I don't know if that works on a '50 Champion.
Unfortunately, I don't think many of us can tell you the 12 Volt Group Size they used on a Champion Six because usually a Little, Low Compression Six does not NEED a 12 Volt System Conversion, just a GOOD Starter and Clean 00 Cables.StudeRich
Second Generation Stude Driver,
Proud '54 Starliner Owner
SDC Member Since 1967
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Do you really need to change to 12 volts? My '47 Champion runs just fine on 6 volts, and I never have had the slightest desire to change it.
If your car has its original wiring, IMHO your money and effort would be better spent on installing a new wiring harness. They are available from Studebakers West and other vendors. The old wiring is likely to have cracked or missing insulation, plus corrosion.
I agree with StudeRich's last paragraph.
Bill JarvisBill Jarvis
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I don't know WHAT Chart you guys are looking at because according to this, neither a 26 OR a 22F, 22R, 22HF, or 22NF are very close, but 26 is WAY OFF, by almost TWO Inches SHORT in ALL directions!StudeRich
Second Generation Stude Driver,
Proud '54 Starliner Owner
SDC Member Since 1967
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I thank all for the valuable information. For StudeRich and Greenstude, I completely agree that a properly maintained six volt system will operate in a very satisfactory manner. We have had a 1950 Studebaker for 30 years that is 100% stock that runs fine. The 1950 Business Coupe we are working on now will have air conditioning that will work best with twelve volts along with an alternator.
Again, Thanks,
PerryPerry
\'50 Business Champion
\'50 Starlight Champion
\'60 Lark Convertible,
\'63 GT R1,
\'67 Triumph TR4A
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I chuckle because when my 25yo Optima would no longer crank the straight 8 in my 1931 President, I swapped it into the 50 Champ and got two more years out of it, and didn't worry, a bit, about damage to the box or the fender. I guess that since all my Optima batteries are at least 16 yrs old I should think about one or two more. They should be around longer then I will.
Bill
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Originally posted by ChampionRuss View PostThe 26 is way off, huh? I don't think so. The 26 is just a little bit smaller than the 1.StudeRich
Second Generation Stude Driver,
Proud '54 Starliner Owner
SDC Member Since 1967
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