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Torque spec for aluminum Real Rodders wheels

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  • Wheels / Tires: Torque spec for aluminum Real Rodders wheels

    What is the torque spec for the Real Rodders aluminum reproduction wheels? They have a lug nut and seat that I am not familiar with. Thanks,
    -Dwight

  • #2
    Any torque value has to do with the "stud" (bolt, cap screw) and nut NOT the item being clamped on. Unless the wheel is paper mache..!

    As long as the nut is steel, 65# to 70# (with WD-40 or a light oil) is a good torque value.

    In any case, the Real Rodders Wheels are a good wheel. Have thought about buying a set myself, in the past. Their wheels that I've seen use a standard flat seat for a normal shouldered nut. They use a heavy washer for support.

    Mike

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    • #3
      TECH SUPPORT & ORDERS
      (805) 402-2212


      GENERAL INQUIRIES
      PatOBrien@racerswheels.com

      http://realrodders.com/faqs/

      1. Before installing the tire on the wheel, make sure the wheel is the correct series that was ordered. Next, test fit the wheel on the vehicle and make sure that all of the hardware fits properly.

      2. Torque lug nuts on by hand using the recommended 50 ft. lbs. on 7/16″ studs, and 60 ft. lbs. on 1/2″ studs, in a cross tightening sequence. Recheck your lug nut torque after 25 miles, and often thereafter. If a washer is to be used, make sure it is the proper one for your wheel and lug nut.
      • When using Acorn Head Lug Nuts, slide your wheel onto the studs until the back of the wheel is firmly against either the brake rotor or brake drum. Your studs should have 4 to 5 treads showing outside of your wheel.
      • When using Open End Lug Nuts, one or two stud threads should be showing through the ends of the lug nuts when fully tightened.
      • In racing applications, or if your wheel has been widened beyond 10″ wide, we suggest you change your wheel studs to a stronger quality aftermarket brand.

      3. Follow instructions for the proper inspection of rotors and/or drums prior to wheel installation.

      4. Clean your studs of rust and dirt and be sure they are dry, without lubrication, and not stripped, before installing the wheel.

      5. Make sure your caps fit properly without rattling.

      6. This would be a good time to paint your drums black, red, or whatever color you prefer.

      7. Check for tire and fender clearance by turning your wheels in both directions, with the car weight fully on the ground.

      8. Do a final cleanup with tire dressing and a proper wheel cleaner.

      HTIH (Hope The Info Helps)

      Jeff


      Get your facts first, and then you can distort them as much as you please. Mark Twain



      Note: SDC# 070190 (and earlier...)

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      • #4
        Thanks guys.
        -Dwight

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        • #5
          All of the above is good stuff, I had a set of quality mag wheels with clear coating, over time the clear cote wore off and the bare magnesium was exposed to the elements causing some corrosion to appear in the inside of the wheel. I had my vehicle at the tire shop for tires and the tech torqued the nuts to 100 ft lbs. I went on my marry way on a 1000 mile trip and had a wheel come off at highway speed (the wheel he torqued to 100 ft lbs) I was fortunate that I had slowed down from 70 mph to about 35 mph before the wheel departed. Several theories were bantered around as to the cause anything from the studs were not tightened to somebody trying to steal the wheels to a possible robbery setup. When the wheel was inspected there was only one lug remaining on one stud the other four nuts were missing. It was thought that somebody had removed the four and left only the one. It was further thought that the culprit would follow you and then stop you to inform you that your car is wobbling with the four nuts in his pocket. This was only conjecture.

          When a second occurrence occurred and two nuts came loose a deeper look was investigated as the cause (from the same tire shop) also with 100 ft lbs of torque it was determined that corrosion was the probable cause. Excess corrosion was found on the inside of the mag wheel and when torqued it was torqueing against the corrosion material that was fine powder. Bottom line here is, make sure there is no debris between the wheel and the brake drum. Just torqueing isn't necessarily the be-all end-all. After loosing a wheel on the freeway I am a little more vigilant.

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