Tube Header Flanges

[Eddie]

I'd use repop R3 cast iron pieces, but:

http://www.hotrodchassisandcycle.com/parts_cars.php

Studebaker is No. 1 on their list!

Eddie

"No matter where you are...there you are!"
Dr. Buckaroo Bonzai

[DEEPNHOCK]

USA Stamping out in Rockford has them on their Ebay store all the time... for $70
(Saves you ten bucks right off the top)
http://tinyurl.com/47zx5j

I have a set and they are nice.
Jeff[8D]

quote:Originally posted by Eddie

I'd use repop R3 cast iron pieces, but:
http://www.hotrodchassisandcycle.com/parts_cars.php
Studebaker is No. 1 on their list!

http://community.webshots.com/user/deepnhock

[PackardV8]

It is possible/probable A buys them from B and retails them, thus the $10 savings purchasing them from B.

thnx, jack vines

PackardV8

[ClaymoreWW]

per the first link a $10 more:

quote:Flange sets come with Felpro gaskets (not those cheap-oh Autozoo ones), the correct amount and length of 12 point header bolts (for clearance and easy tightening) and 3/8" thick header flanges.

seems like a good deal to me (if you didn't have to build the tubes, too! ).

--george

1963 Lark Daytona HT - 63V J8 175

[Mike Van Veghten]

I've also got a set.
Very nicely done, though they will require some heavy deburring.

Mike

[Eddie]

I didn't know about USA Stamping--thanx!

But the Victory's price gets higher, per this return e-mail from them in which I wanted a unit pricing breakdown of included components and pricing for their optional prefab stub-out:

"The flanges themselves are $70 for the set. It's an additional $30 to have them stubbed. The gasket would be $13.99. Bolts would run about $12 for 12. Shipping & handling would be approximately $16.50."

Ed



"No matter where you are...there you are!"
Dr. Buckaroo Bonzai

[Alan]

It is hard to beat those prices, and those stubs are a must have unless you have a mandrel pipe expander the right sizes.

[Mike Van Veghten]

Alan -
Those port openings are a bit of a weird shape...at least mine are (look close at Jeffs picture).

An expander isn't gonna do much with the odd shape..

Tack weld the tube you like in, finish the header, a little heat in the tube entrance...and some light tapping/shaping with a small ball peen hammer works very well.

Mike

[JDC]

He is an acquaintance of mine and I am sending him a manifold so he can build me a set of shorty headers. My car has a new stainless exhaust so I am haveing the headers made to bolt right up. I'll let you know how they turn out.

[Eddie]

I built both intake and exhaust manifolds for my inline-6 diesel. The intake was a piece of cake; it has six round intake openings. Though I had some trouble sourcing aluminum tubing and mandel-bent bends which I finally found here: http://www.burnsstainless.com/Alumin...minumtube.html

The exhaust header was more challenging, though not very; the engine has six separate ports, elliptical in shape. Basically, for each port think, two circles cut in half with a 1/2" of straight line tossed in on each side. I more or less did as Mike suggests; took measurements of the finished port, figured square area, then figured the area of sections of straight exhaust tubing sections. It came to slightly under 1-1/2", which was cool as I wanted an anti-reversion step anyway.

Then I bought one for cheap, made it to fit my (custom)flange by mashing it in the bench vice to create the straight sections of the ellipse and adjusting it with a high-tech ball-peen, then spent $$$ with Burns--no, I didn't achieve 321 or Inconel,[:0].

With my Stude engine, I want to try a couple of different header styles so I'll probably end up buying two sets of whomever's flanges.

Ed

"No matter where you are...there you are!"
Dr. Buckaroo Bonzai