distributor rebuild

[gilmo100]

I just got in all the parts needed to rebuild, or i guess you could call it freshen up my distributor (cap points rotor condensor) and am trying to figure out if I need to completely remove the distributor or if I can do this with it still in. Ive never done it before and am by no means a mechanic but think I might be able to do it. what do you guys think?

Glendora, California

[Flashback]

pull it out

Tex E. Grier

[Tom Bredehoft]

Pull it out.

But first, pull the No. 1 spark plug and rotate the engine until 1) you get your finger blown out of the spartk plug hole and 2) the timing mark is lined up.

Then, pop the cap off the distributor and hold it aside. Note that the rotor is pointing toward the position of the No. 1 spark plug wire, Dead front in V8s.

As you lift the distributor, notice that the rotor turns (I think its) counter clockwise 60 or 70 degrees.

Make a little drawing of this postion so you don't remember it wrong.

When you put the distrubitor back in, see to it that the rotor is pointing where it was after it was pulled out, so that when the gears mesh, it will rotate back to its original positon.

I should copy this so I can post it again next month for the next person that asks. This in not a snotty comment, but a reminder to myself to copy it when I get home later in the week. I'm on a lobby computer in a motel in upstate NY as I write this.

[img=left]http://www.alink.com/personal/tbredehoft/Avatar1.jpg[/img=left]
Tom Bredehoft
'53 Commander Coupe (since 1959)
'55 President (6H Y6) State Sedan
(Under Construction 528 hrs.)
'05 Legacy Ltd Wagon
All Indiana built cars

[gilmo100]

haha thanks for the info, no offense taken I appreciate all the help sorry if its repetitive

Glendora, California

[r1lark]

quote:Originally posted by Tom B

Pull it out.

But first, pull the No. 1 spark plug and rotate the engine until 1) you get your finger blown out of the spartk plug hole and 2) the timing mark is lined up.

Then, pop the cap off the distributor and hold it aside. Note that the rotor is pointing toward the position of the No. 1 spark plug wire, Dead front in V8s.

As you lift the distributor, notice that the rotor turns (I think its) counter clockwise 60 or 70 degrees.

Make a little drawing of this postion so you don't remember it wrong.

When you put the distrubitor back in, see to it that the rotor is pointing where it was after it was pulled out, so that when the gears mesh, it will rotate back to its original positon.

I should copy this so I can post it again next month for the next person that asks. This in not a snotty comment, but a reminder to myself to copy it when I get home later in the week. I'm on a lobby computer in a motel in upstate NY as I write this.

Tom Bredehoft
'53 Commander Coupe (since 1959)
'55 President (6H Y6) State Sedan
(Under Construction 528 hrs.)
'05 Legacy Ltd Wagon
All Indiana built cars

gilmo100,

You didn't mention what model car and type distributor this was, but there is another advantage of pulling the distributor out of the car. It makes it so much easier to pull the points plate off and inspect/lubricate the advance weights/mechanism that is underneath the plate. (Note: if this is a Delco window-style distributor, the advance weights are accessible already.)

The Autolite/Prestolite distributors can suffer from a lot of wear on the advance weight holes and the shaft pivot pins that the weights sit on, so this is a critical area to lubricate. There is also a pin sticking up on each advance weight that engages the plate that the point cam is attached to - these need some lubrication also since it's part of the mechanical advance mechanism.

This will be a good time to make sure the points plate moves freely (it is actually two pieces, and the vacuum advance canister moves the top plate in relation to the bottom plate) and add a little lubrication if required. And if you have a vacuum pump (like a Mighty-vac), check the vacuum advance canister to make sure it is working and isn't leaking.

By the way, if you have a digital camera or a cell phone camera, take some pictures as you disassemble the points plate and advance parts, to ensure they get back together correctly.

I know this is more involved than just changing points/condenser/rotor, but remember that the newest Studebaker is now 46 years old! Sticky or non-working mechanical and/or vacuum advance systems can really impact the drivability of a car, so a little time spent here will be well worth it.


Paul
Winston-Salem, NC
Visit The NEW Studebaker Skytop Registry website at: www.studebakerskytop.com

[gilmo100]

sorry paul, I have a 49 champion sedan with the prestolite IAT 4001 distributor. Those are all good points so I have decided on the next weekend I have I will take a day or so to take off the distributor and go through everything just to make sure it is ok. I have never started the car and am hoping that once I do this it will fire up (Fingers crossed) I will take everything you all have told me into consideration, and definitely take lots of pictures!

Glendora, California

[PlainBrownR2]

I did the Autolite 4001, I'd pull it out.....
The nice thing about this distributor is the shaft is notched in the center. Once it comes out, it should relatively easy go back in by aligning the shaft back with the notches. I would mark though where the original position of the distributor is, as once the distributor goes back in both gear and shaft will rotate on ya!! The distributor is also at that funny angle on the six, it's no picnic chasing parts that accidently fell into the distributor, or trying to reassemble the distributor at a 45 degree angle . Most of what I did was pretty cosmetic. I broke the distributor down to the shaft and the weights, cleaned and lubed the moving parts, removed the caked on grease from the external housing, and cleaned and painted the outside of the distributor. I also pulled the points and put in the Petronix kit. With the points it should be a little easier as the points are kind of on this sprung arm. There is a unique screw on the side of the arm that allows you to set the point gap in or out by a twist of the screw. Of course all that disappeared once the Petronix kit came into play.


[img=left]http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t102/PlainBrownR2/My%201950%202r5%20Studebaker%20Pickup%20with%20turbocharger/P1000137-1.jpg[/img=left]
[img=right]http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t102/PlainBrownR2/DSC00005.jpg?t=1171153370[/img=right]
[IMG=left]http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t102/PlainBrownR2/Ex%20Studebaker%20Plant%20Locomotive/P1000578-1.jpg[/IMG=left]

[fmarshall]

And if you pull the distributor out, make certain to replace the gasket.

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63 Avanti R2, 4-Speed, 3.73 TT
Martinez, CA