Vapor Lock and Hard Starting

[sasjdw]

Hi,

My restored '55 Speedster has recently developed two vexing problems.

1. When the engine is up to temp, and I've been driving for 15-20 min. If I turn the engine off, wait a few minutes and then try to restart, the starter turns the engine very slowly. Sometimes I'm concerned that it won't start at all. Usually it does, but why is the starter motor so slow when the engine is hot. After it cools down the starter spins it very quickly. I've had the starter tested and it checks out OK. Battery is also strong and fully charged. OEM 6 volt system.

2. THe last time I went for a drive, I was sitting at a stop light for several minutes and just before the light changed, the engine died. I discovered that there was no fuel in the carb, but tank was full. So, I diagnosed vapor lock. After a 30 minutes cool down, I was able to restart the engine and go on my way. When I got home, I let it idle in my driveway and, sure enough, in a few minutes it died again - no fuel in carb. I'm thinking vapor lock, but this has never happened to this car before and the weather that day was mild (70 degrees). What would cause the car to suddenly develop vapor lock. I've replaced all fuel lines, fuel pump, filter and the tank is clean and lined.

Regards

James D. Wilkerson

[BobGlasscock]

I know I am like a broken record, but after spending many weeks and many answers, my engine dying problem turned out to be a mis-adjusted float in the carb. Check that according to your book and make sure it is perfect.

I don't know about the starter problem.

'50 Champion, 1 family owner

[skyway]

...or maybe the float sticks in the up position. While driving, the occasional bump in the road knocks the float loose so that the needle & seat opens and refills the bowl. No bumps, and the bowl runs dry.

On the hot starting problem, remember that heat makes resistance. Check out the battery cables and primary ignition wires/connections.

[Tom Bredehoft]

Check all grounds, heat can reduce the conductivity of corrosion (under cable ends)

[img=left]http://www.alink.com/personal/tbredehoft/Avatar1.jpg[/img=left]
Tom Bredehoft
'53 Commander Coupe (since 1959)
'55 President (6H Y6) State Sedan
(Under Construction 528 hrs.)
'05 Legacy Ltd Wagon
All Indiana built cars

[fstst56]

I know I sound like a broken record too,
but as for the hard starting goes, I've been using 8 volt group one
batteries for years now. Especially with a V-8.

You'll need to have the regulator turned up,
or go with an 8 volt one-wire hook up alternator.

[64V-K7]

Over the years, I've made the following mods (corrections) to my 55 President;
For the starting issues....
Recabled with "00" welder cable from POS battery post to top mounting bolt on starter; The original ground went to the water manifold.
Recabled with "00" welder cable from NEG battery post to starter solenoid;
Recabled with "00" welder cable from starter solenoid to starter post;
Copper lugs (Lowes) were all sweated onto the cable ends;
Aside from a starter rebuild, doing the above greatly improved starter action in most all situations;
I recently found that if if the car sits a while unused and the battery is weak; things improve immensely if you run a large gauge (8# or 10#) between the fender mounting bolt on the starter solenoid directly to the POS battery post. I understand that the solenoid should be grounded sufficiently through the fender to do this, but my connections are ALL sanded to bare metal and tightened with electrolytic grease. Even this measure will not do as well as the direct wire to the POS battery post.
The issue with the carb boiling dry can be settled by installing an electric fuel pump, at the rear (shock) crossmember, plumbing in an additional fuel filter at that point also and wiring it to run either full time with the ignition circuit (using an oil pressure safety switch) or on a manual switch on the dash. A good heat soak after driving and stopping will often boil the carb dry, as the carb has a vent for fumes. By turning the igntion on, then switching the fuel pump on for a minute, you leave the dry starts behind. This scenario also works well if you have a Pertronix ignition module, which requires a 'pump up' before cranking the engine.

Bob Johnstone

http://www.studebaker-info.org

55 President State Sedan
64 GT Hawk
70 Avanti (R3)