Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Valve Adjustment

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Valve Adjustment

    Getting ready to adjust the valves on my new '52 Champion 170ci 6cyl. Does the manifold have to come off to do the adjustment, or is there a trick I am missing? You can hardly see the valve cover bolts, much less the valves to adjust with the manifold in place.
    Thank's to all for your expert advice! I have already received my dues back in priceless wisdom!

  • #2
    quote:Originally posted by champion52

    Getting ready to adjust the valves on my new '52 Champion 170ci 6cyl. Does the manifold have to come off to do the adjustment, or is there a trick I am missing? You can hardly see the valve cover bolts, much less the valves to adjust with the manifold in place.
    Thank's to all for your expert advice! I have already received my dues back in priceless wisdom!
    Do you have a copy of the latest SDC magazine, "Turning Wheels"? This is covered very well in the technical section of that issue.

    [img=left]http://simps.us/studebaker/misc/images/Avacar-hcsdc.gif[/img=left]
    Paul Simpson
    "DilloCrafter"

    1955 1/2 Ton Pickup
    The Red-Headed Amazon
    Deep in the heart of Texas

    Paul Simpson
    "DilloCrafter"

    1955 1/2 Ton Pickup
    The Red-Headed Amazon
    Deep in the heart of Texas

    Comment


    • #3
      Hi Paul,
      I only just received the Sept. issue of "Turning Wheels". I could not find any topic on adjusting the valves. Had some great tech. info. on oil though.
      I have the shop manual & have been searching the tech. forum & I believe I know how to make the adjustments. It was not mentioned anywhere whether the manifold had to be removed to gain better access to the covers & valves.I cannot see any other way to properly access the area without the manifold comming out. Am I correct?

      Thank's,
      Steve

      Comment


      • #4
        For me I found that was easier to remove the Manifold.

        GARY H 2DR.SEDAN 48 STUDEBAKER CHAMPION NORTHEAST MD.

        Comment


        • #5
          Thank's Gary,
          That's what I kinda thought too. That being said, I always like to look for confirmation from the experts.
          Now to order that new manifold gasket I will need.

          Steve

          Comment


          • #6
            Hey Steve, that article is in the AUGUST edition of TW, if you're still looking for it.


            [img=left]http://members.cox.net/clarknovak/lark.gif[/img=left]

            Clark in San Diego
            '63 F2/Lark Standard

            The Official Website of the San Diego Chapter of the Studebaker Drivers Club. Serving San Diego County

            Clark in San Diego | '63 Standard (F2) "Barney" | http://studeblogger.blogspot.com

            Comment


            • #7
              Hi Clark,
              I only joined SDC in August, so I had just received my Sept issue of "Turning Wheels".
              I have done many valve adjustments on other cars,just not Studebaker's. I read & re-read all related topics & the shop manual so I know I should not have too much trouble. I was really looking not to have to remove the manifold, but as Gary stated earlier,it's easier to do with the manifold removed.
              I think the valve adjustment will be a great learning experience for my 14 yr old son. I forgot how hard it was on the back, to lean over the engine compartment of these 50's cars!
              Thank's For The Info!,
              Steve, NY- 52 Champion 4dr sedan

              Comment


              • #8
                I've done it both ways...........

                MUCH easier (overall) with the manifolds off. Even having to remove and reinstall the manifolds.
                Easier to clean the gasket surface without the garbage ending up in the lifter cavity.

                Do it cold, and go by the firing order.

                Mike

                Comment


                • #9
                  Thank's Mike,
                  The point you made about the garbage ending up in the lifter cavity was heard loud & clear. I don't need to create any more issues than I already have!
                  The Champion runs great except for a little rough idle. Completed a full tune up, check for vaccum leaks, rebuilt the carb, set the dwell,timing,mixture & idle. I'm thinking the valves might be a little too tight.
                  Steve

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    You might want to check with Cathcart's Studebaker for the Rubber valve cover gaskets and the little metal balls to go in the lifter galley holes. I had to replace the Valve covers on mine bacause they were bent from being overtightened. I have also been told that .016 might be to tight for the valves.

                    GARY H 2DR.SEDAN 48 STUDEBAKER CHAMPION NORTHEAST MD.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Thank's again Gary! I just ordered new rubber valve cover gaskets. The engine is a replacement N.O.S. with 4500 miles. What are the little metal balls in the lifter galley holes used for? Would they need to be changed on a engine with my mileage?
                      There is so many little differences on these cars compared to the cars from the big 3! I guess that's why I found "Abby" in the first place (Or she found me!).
                      I'm slowly learning, with everyone's expert help!

                      Steve - Hawthorne, NY

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Call Bill Cathcart phone 860-564 5852. He has the metal balls and can explain their use better than I.

                        GARY H 2DR.SEDAN 48 STUDEBAKER CHAMPION NORTHEAST MD.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Finished the valve adjustment today! You guys were sooo correct when you advised removing the manifold. As a side benefit, I was able to paint the manifold & block the correct green color, instead of the black that the replacement engine wore.
                          Most of the valves were set at .016 & some even tighter! I set all the valve clearances to .018 and all seems good. I can just about hear the tic,tic of the valves at idle. The manifold gasket sealed up well using the hi-temp.copper spray tac on the block side to hold it in place. I used the hi temp copper sealant in the tube, for the manifold side.
                          The 170 still has a slight stumble at idle, but I may be too critical. Anything off idle, the engine runs great.
                          Thank's again to all for your advice!
                          Steve

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Steve,
                            Did you check the gasket surface on the intake/exhaust manifold while you had it off?
                            Last couple of Champ engines I did I found the gasket surfaces were uneven (between the intake runner heights) and the exhausts.
                            Caused me a slight vacuum leak that made the idle a tad rough and had an off idle stumble.
                            Ran great off idle on up.
                            Had to do some slight machining work to even the runners out to get the gaskets to seal to the block properly.
                            Then it would idle at 500 rpm as smooth as glass.
                            Smoothest idleing 6 cylinder engine I have ever seen.
                            Jeff[8D]


                            quote:Originally posted by champion52

                            <snip>
                            The 170 still has a slight stumble at idle, but I may be too critical. Anything off idle, the engine runs great.
                            http://community.webshots.com/user/deepnhock
                            HTIH (Hope The Info Helps)

                            Jeff


                            Get your facts first, and then you can distort them as much as you please. Mark Twain



                            Note: SDC# 070190 (and earlier...)

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Hi Jeff,
                              Yes, I checked the runners with a straight edge. All were level. It looked like the previous owner had the manifold trued when he installed the N.O.S. block.All the flanges looked freshly ground. I also sprayed around the manifold & carb looking for vaccum leaks.None to be found. Guess I'll have to keep hunting. Thank's for the good suggestion.
                              Steve

                              Comment

                              Working...
                              X