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  • HEATER VALVE

    I HAVE A 62 LARK,DAYTONA, AND THE HEATER VALVE MUST BE STUCK OPEN.
    IT REALLY HEATS UP ON THE PASSENGER SIDE..I CHECKED THE CABLE GOING TO THE SWITCH OR WHATEVER, AND IT MOVES .MY QUESTION IS ,
    IS THERE A VALVE THERE OR WHAT.I CAN EASILY SEE WHERE IT IS BUT DONT KNOW HOW ITS SUPPOSED TO WORK?????????????ANY IDEAS...

  • #2
    The heater (water control RANCO valve) should be at the outboard edge of the right hand side of the dashboard, attached to a bracket mounted on the two dash mounting bolts. You should be able to move the Temp. control knob to cold with your left hand and from under the right of dash see the lever MOVE that the control cable is connected to, to close the valve. There is a small clip that clamps the cable housing tight to adjust the (wire) core's travel.

    To make a Studebaker Climatizer System work, you need the round black knob under the dash to the right, for Right Air pulled OUT.

    StudeRich
    Studebakers Northwest
    Ferndale, WA
    StudeRich
    Second Generation Stude Driver,
    Proud '54 Starliner Owner
    SDC Member Since 1967

    Comment


    • #3
      Grabbing onto an old thread here to ask how much movement of the plunger on the climatizer valve there should be from using the cable. It worked last year, but now I'm getting almost nothing. Feed hose is hot; return hose is warm. This says to me that the valve isn't opening. The cable is adjusted as far as I can get it to go, and the "arm" on the (rebuilt last year) valve is at its full extension. I can push the plunger in further by hand. Should I bend the "bar" that presses on the valve button to get more range? Expensive valves to rebuild every year, I'd say.

      Joe, CO

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      • StudeRich
        StudeRich commented
        Editing a comment
        No don't bend anything, the Clip that holds the adjustment on the cable housing has likely slipped not allowing the lever to reach full open.
        Also, is the Black knob Air Valve handle under the dash for Right Air pulled out ?
        And does the cable Move the flapper Valve to open ?

        The fact that you have a warm return hose tells me that you may be getting "Some" Hot water through the Valve but not all.

    • #4
      Pictures may help us see the problem better.

      Comment


      • #5
        Thank you for responding so quickly!

        Here are pictures. #1 is with the dash lever "off". #2 is with the dash lever "on". The cable housing is secure. The flapper valve run by the black knob works and is open, although that doesn't affect the temperature problem. #3a + 3b show the valve from two different angles with the cable housing loosened and the valve forced by hand as far open as it will go, which is where the cable was set--so essentially the same as #2. There is a brass housing against which the cable-actuated lever stops; it will turn no further.

        If I push on the brass part of the valve that moves with the lever, I can make it go further into the coolant tube of the valve. I won't say it goes far, but it's probably twice the distance you can identify between photos #1 and #2.

        Joe, CO

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        • #6
          Good pictures of the valve. Any pics of the control cable. Also are the hoses connected to the correct sides of the valve. I think the curved tube is to the engine and the straight tube is to the heater core. The cable should be set to rotate the valve to both stop points.

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          • #7
            Does the valve look like it is or is not opening all the way in these pictures? My understanding was that the thermostatic component would modulate things, but you could simply open it all the way despite that--sort of "lock it out," as it were.

            Joe, CO

            Comment


            • StudeRich
              StudeRich commented
              Editing a comment
              Yes that is how it works, but can't tell anything from those Pics.

          • #8
            A couple thoughts.....What do you mean that the passenger side really "heats up". Are you saying the driver's side does not ? Can you confirm that the same temp and volume of air is coming out of both sides of the distribution duct ? How about the defroster ? How about the filter in the cowl ? My dad once dumped a '63 Wagonaire because of no heat. He knew nothing of the filter condition nor that of opening the right fresh air intake vent.

            Comment


            • #9
              That Valve does not resemble a "Ranco" valve, must be some kind of replacement.
              We need a Pic more zoomed out to see the whole installation.
              The Copper heat sensing tube is supposed to stretched out to sense the Air and away from Hot things like the water tubes.
              StudeRich
              Second Generation Stude Driver,
              Proud '54 Starliner Owner
              SDC Member Since 1967

              Comment

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