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1950 Champion- no power

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  • 1950 Champion- no power

    I have no power in my '50 Champion. It starts fine (sometimes), but when I punch the accelerator the engine "slows down", almost as a dead spot, then it will increase if I back off. It will also stall. If I slowly increase the accelerator the engine seems fine. Now, When I go to drive up a hill the car has no power and I have to keep pushing in the clutch while a tweeking the accelerator to get enough power to get up a hill. I live in the Blue Ridge Mtns and I can't keep pressing in the clutch or the car will roll back quickly.[xx(] Also when I do accelerate quickly and let out the clutch the car stalls -sometimes backfiring. The brakes are not rubbing, the car is not in 3rd gear (tho thats what it feels like). The spark plugs are getting fire and the engine runs fairly smooth, if not carring a load. Note, this car hasn't been ran in 35 years, except for the past few months. Should I rebuild the carburator? and if so, what model carb would this car have. Thank you very much!! Tom LaMartina, Lynchburg, VA

    Tom LaMartina

  • #2
    Take the air cleaner off and drive the car around. See if it is any better. A similar thing happened to me in my M5. It took me a long time to find it. The fiber pad in the lid of the oil bath air cleaner came loose. The carb got enough air at idle and part throttle, but with lots of air flow, the pad sucked down onto the carb intake and choked the engine. No power up hill, but would still rev at part throttle. Very weird!

    [img=left]http://www.studegarage.com/images/gary_ash_m5_sm.jpg[/img=left] Gary Ash
    Dartmouth, Mass.
    '48 M5
    '65 Wagonaire Commander
    '63 Wagonaire Standard
    web site at http://www.studegarage.com
    Gary Ash
    Dartmouth, Mass.

    '32 Indy car replica (in progress)
    ’41 Commander Land Cruiser
    '48 M5
    '65 Wagonaire Commander
    '63 Wagonaire Standard
    web site at http://www.studegarage.com

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    • #3
      Sounds like a classic example of the accellerator pump not working and a main jet with just a little crud.

      Buddy...'54 Champion 2dr
      Warner Robins, GA 31088
      478-953-3077

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      • #4
        Gary's idea has merit and so does Buddy's. With that air cleaner off, work the trottle (engine not running) and look down the carb throat as you do so. You should see a squirt of gas from the accelerator pump. If not, time for a rebuild.
        ALSO, you wanna check the power jet to see that it moves freely. Right next to the carb throat is a little cover that's held on with one screw. Remove that screw and the cover. Now you see a lever and spring and stuff. The flat tab that goes down into the carb should spring back up when you push it down a bit. If not or if it's stuck down, that could be your problem. Or maybe even the metering rod (has an eye at it's top) has come off the tang that actuates it. Under hard acceleration, that thing pops up (due to the engine vacuum dropping) and opens up a jet in the carb bowl by virtue of that metering rod being lifted up so that more gas can flow to meet the demand. If that's not happening, it's gonna backfire, stumble and just plain be ornery under load!
        Time to contact Studebakerparts.com for a carb kit![B)]

        Miscreant adrift in
        the BerStuda Triangle!!

        1957 Transtar 1/2ton
        1960 Larkvertible V8
        1958 Provincial wagon
        1953 Commander coupe
        No deceptive flags to prove I'm patriotic - no biblical BS to impress - just ME and Studebakers - as it should be.

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        • #5
          I recently acquired a '50 Champion that ran, but who knows how long it had been since it was driven. A carb rebuild made it run like a sewing machine. You can bet that if yours hasn't been driven in 30+ years, shellac has gummed up all the thingees that need to move correctly.

          Ron

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          • #6
            You might also want to check your spark advance on the distributor. They are pretty important to the power and acceleration of the champ engines. The way I always check mine is to remove the vacuum hose from the port on engine and pull a vacuum with mouth. You should be able to see distributor move. If not the diaphragm is busted.

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            • #7
              I always go by the old saying "Ignition First, Then Carburation", although in this case, things seem to be pointing to cleaning the carburator. I'd check the points and the disributor advance first, then move to the carb.


              Mike with Speedster.

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              • #8
                If you think it's a fuel problem, it will turn out to be electrical. If you think it's electrical, it will turn out to be fuel. That said, it sounds like you have a fuel supply problem. I vote for check and clean the carb. Helped me lots.

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