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'37 Studebaker Power Window upgrade?

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  • '37 Studebaker Power Window upgrade?

    Anyone out there upgraded to power windows on a late 30's studebaker, while at the same time keeping the stock vent window? The '37 CE, Dictator, and perhaps other years/models, are designed with the vertical "window guide track" (which is located in the center of door), bent forward approx. 35degrees, at the top. The track bend directs the window forward, creating a seal with the vent window during the final inch or so of travel, when closing. All the aftermarket power window kits I've researched, seem to operate in a rigid vertical direction, and I'm concerned about potential for "less than smooth" window performance during that last little bit of travel. My tiny brain, has already considered fabricating a 5-10 degree pivot at the mechanical force point (which would probably create more problems), etc. etc....but before I get too carried away with my shade tree theories, I figured the first thing to do, is "pick some brains". Anyone else dealt with this situation before? Thanks, Jimmy

  • #2
    Like you, I can envision a pivoting attachment point where the drive motor would fasten to the inner door structure. This would allow the drive to lean forward during that last few degrees of travel.

    Miscreant adrift in
    the BerStuda Triangle!!

    1957 Transtar 1/2ton
    1960 Larkvertible V8
    1958 Provincial wagon
    1953 Commander coupe
    No deceptive flags to prove I'm patriotic - no biblical BS to impress - just ME and Studebakers - as it should be.


    • #3
      I agree. Unless someone has dealt with this same situation, and offers a differant approach, that's how I'm gonna try it. The more I think about it, and after proping the door up on my workbench, coffee in one hand, flashlight in the other, and giving the door some serious thought....the problem is probably not as complicated as I'm trying to make it. Despite the guide curve being over an inch long (horizontaly), the actual forward sealing movement is probably closer to 1/4 - 1/2". I'm thinking that if I cut the guide wheel plate off the stock window channel, and relocate it on the power guide channel, it might just work as-is. I'm planning on stopping by the salvage yard to see what they have, before dropping the cash for an aftermarket new one. Jimmy