Clutch Alignment Tool - necessary?

[Champion51]

I will be replacing my clutch disc, pressure plate, throw-out bearing and pilot bearing soon. This is new challenge for me.
Can anyone tell me if I must use a special alignment tool to successfully complete the job? If this is a must, where do I find this tool? Are they [u]standard size</u> for all cars of the 50's era? I know that the splines of the imput shaft can be damaged if the parts are not mated properly. Any info here is very much appreciated. Thanks!

Dave D.
'51 4-dr Champion
Smithers, B.C.
Canada

[Champion51]

I forgot to mention, NAPA carries a universal alignment tool but only works on cars without pilot bearings (obviously for newer vehicles). I haven't found a Stude Vendor that sells them or loans them out.

Dave D.
'51 4-dr Champion
Smithers, B.C.
Canada

[52-fan]

The purpose of the clutch alignment tool is just the center the clutch plate over the pilot bearing. You could even use a dowel of the right diameter. I once got a wooden alignment tool that was slightly too big and just kept sanding until the clutch plate would barely slide over it. Worked fine. Oh, the tip of the tool has to fit snuggly into the pilot bearing. An old trans input shaft can be used, but I never seem to have one that's not attached to the transmission.

1952 Champion Starlight, 1962 Daytona, 1947 M5. Searcy,Arkansas

[gordr]

I've done many clutches without benefit of an alignment tool. Most clutch covers have openings around their perimeter (between the spring groups) where you can reach in with fingertips and FEEL the edge of the clutch disc relative to the edge of the actual pressure plate. So, as you install and tighten the screws, you can FEEL the degree of overlap between the PP and the disc, and shift the latter until your fingertips can no longer FEEL any such difference. Tighten down the clutch cover, and you should be good to go. I put FEEL in caps because that's the whole idea; you are not measuring, per se, but you CAN sense quite well when one side of the disc is recessed a bit more than the other, amazingly well actually. If you do this with the least degree of care, you should have no trouble installing the tranny. Using an alignment tool or spare input shaft just makes the job a lot faster and easier.

Make all the connections on your clutch linkage before attempting to slip the tranny into place. If you can't get the pilot portion of the shaft to seat in the pilot bushing, then have a helper depress the clutch pedal while you apply force to the tranny. That should allow the rounded taper on the nose of the shaft to find its center in the pilot bushing, and draw the disc with it. I've had to do that stunt once or twice. But normally, if you do a good job of "fingertip centering", the tranny will slip in fine.

Gord Richmond, within Weasel range of the Alberta Badlands

[bowss@aol.com]

Try your local Autozone, O'reilly, etc. They loan tools and should have a universal clutch pilot tool. A second option is to take some wood dowel stock that fits the clutch disc and cut the tip down so that it fits the pilot bearing. When you tighten down the pressure plate use a cross bolt pattern on tightening.

[Dick Steinkamp]

quote:Originally posted by gordr

I've done many clutches without benefit of an alignment tool.

I'm with Gord. I've probably done more without an alignment tool than with. Same results and same time involved.

[DEEPNHOCK]

Dave...
The alignment tool gets the parts 'real close' so the input shaft will slip in and the pilot stub goes into the pilot brearing hole.
A slight misalignment of only a few thousandths will make poking a hundred pound plus trans into the hole a total pita.
I repeat... a total pita.
Yeah, you can do it and it 'might' go in.
But, if it doesn't, and after your thirteenth upgrunt of the trans...you will wish you had taken this small step.
I just did a 3speed o/d trans on Pat Skelly's GT Hawk overhead on his 4 post lift.
I 'made' a clutch pilot alignment tool out of a 1/2" socket extension and a deep socket (that slipped into the pilot bushing) and a few wraps of electrical tape.
(because we didn't have the whizbanger tool, and didn't want to wait)
Grunted that pig of a trans up and into the bellhousing and slid it onto some long studs
(bolts with heads cut off screwed into the two bottom bellhousing bolt holes..[u]this helps a lot</u>)...
It slipped in easier than some gir....er..it slipped in real easy.
So you don't need a high tech gizmo... Just something to align the center of the splined hub on the disc to the center of the pilot bushing hole.
Don't let it freak you out. It really is a basic machine with basic procedures.
You can do it!
Jeff[8D]

quote:Originally posted by Champion51

I will be replacing my clutch disc, pressure plate, throw-out bearing and pilot bearing soon. This is new challenge for me.
Can anyone tell me if I must use a special alignment tool to successfully complete the job? If this is a must, where do I find this tool? Are they [u]standard size</u> for all cars of the 50's era? I know that the splines of the imput shaft can be damaged if the parts are not mated properly. Any info here is very much appreciated. Thanks!

Dave D.
'51 4-dr Champion
Smithers, B.C.
Canada

[Flashback]

Have you already purchased the clutch? The last few years all the cpa assys I have used came with a plastic line up shaft. Check with the auto parts store and see. Auto zone had this assy last time I checked.

Tex in Alabama
53 C

Tex E. Grier

[gordr]

Tex, I have an assortment of those plastic line-up shafts, and I've yet to see one that fits a Studebaker, except for maybe a '65 or '66.

Jeff, I've done many clutches without benefit of the alignment tool. If I have one, or have a spare input shaft, sho' nuff I'll use it. The time you REALLY need one is if you find a clutch cover that doesn't have room to get your fingertips in there to feel the edge of the disc.

The really nice thing about doing this job on a Studebaker is that the clutch linkage can be completely assembled, and the bellhousing securely bolted down BEFORE the tranny is stabbed in, so if the clutch disc isn't right on the money, a helper depressing the clutch pedal makes it all right in a moment.

Gord Richmond, within Weasel range of the Alberta Badlands

[Champion51]

A special thank you to all you guys that have replied and a very big "pat on the back" to Gord and Jeff. I feel much better now thanks to your contributions. I have heard that this job can be a real nightmare, but I'm feeling much more confident about it now. You have some good ideas with the installation which I'll be sure to use! I like that socket extension tip.
Can't afford the clutch disc or the pressure plate right now but the other stuff is on order. Thanks again!!


Dave D.
'51 4-dr Champion
Smithers, B.C.
Canada

[vegas paul]

I got one for about $6 when I did mine last summer. It was plastic and made to fit the T96 perfectly. I can't remember where I got it, but I just Googled it and found one pretty quick.

Las Vegas, NV - Stop by, coffee's on!
'51 Champion Business Coupe G899965 10G-Q4-1434

[64studeavanti]

Just got my clutch back from the rebuilder. I picked up one from him for less than $5.00. It fits some years Jeep. Previously, I used one for a chevy that I got at the FLAPS and just wrapped tape around the pilot to make it fit.