The Hydro-Vac unit from my 62 GT is out for rebuild. I've been looking into bleeding the system when I get it all back together and reading the manual it refers to bleeding the bleed screw on the "power end of the hydraulic unit" first and then the bleed screw at "the control body of the power unit", then the wheel cylinders. The unit on my car does not appear to have a bleed screw at the "power end" only the one at the "control body" My manual makes no reference to units with only one bleed screw. Should I try bleeding at the outlet line on the slave cylinder or is the single bleed screw sufficient?
The pen is pointing to the bleed screw that I do not seem to have on my unit 
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The HV you show here is for disc brake equipped 63-64 Hawks. If your 62GT has DB, then this is the one you want. Since the piston is smaller (.75" versus 1") in the HV for disc brakes, it puts out about 30 percent more power assistance, which is needed for disc brakes. As for bleeding procedures, it sounds like you are reading in the wrong part of the manual, which is for drum brake equipped Hawks. The specific area for DB Hawks begins on page 41 in my 59-64 Shop Manual. It is easy to bleed, especially if you have the firewall mounted reservoir. It, and the front calipers will bleed easier if you raise the front wheels of the car about 6", so the bubbles all go in the right direction.
If you have drum brakes, this disc brake HV's extra power will make your car's brake pedal more sensitive. But with today's garbage shoe linings, that may be a good thing.
Having recently replaced the HV on the wife's 63GT, the above is fresh in mind. -
Thanks Joe,Originally posted by JoeHall View Post
My Hawk has the Turner conversion but was originally a drum brake 62 Hawk. It would appear that when the conversion was done someone had the presence of mind to upgrade the HV to a disc brake unit. I'm impressed! I had assumed it was the original HV unit and didn't dig far enough into the manual. I do not have the firewall mounted reservoir unfortunately but I have a large syringe to keep topping up the under floor one. When the carpet was re done they did not include an access panel so that is out! Great tip on raising the front of the car for bleeding, I will do that.
I hear you re the brake linings. I'm also replacing both rear drums and shoes as one drum in horribly out of round. With the Turner brakes, rebuilt HV and new rear brakes we should be in good shape for awhile. I don't mind spending money on brakes!
Thanks so much for your input, very much appreciated.
Kev (aka Kato)Comment
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You would think with all the complaints about the drum brake lining for older cars a company would compose a lining which wd wellould give better results even if it would wear out sooner most older cars are not driven that many miles as most owners pay more attention to maintaining and checking on things like brakes . I have been driving for a long time and most cars I had before were non power drum brakes. Most were fine at the lower speeds that were the norm around 55 60 . Which is the speed most older cars a happy at and designed for Just my thoughts . When I want to drive fast I take my twin turbo four wheel antilock disc brake active suspension car AC cruise control navigation system. To relive my past take my ClipperComment
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