Transmission / Overdrive: Sloppy column shift fix?

[Guest]

Guys - I had a chance to buy a sweet, '58 Stude Scotsman here locally and just drove it home. The column shifter is uncomfortably wiggly and from the looks of it, a roll pin holds it all together. I think it's just a case of wearing out and was hoping there might be an idea from the brain trust, here. I suppose failing a fix, I could look for a T-98 floor mount shifter, but I'd prefer to stay with the column if possible. Thanks!

[Guest]

One more thing... this car has a "TT" chrome piece on the trunk lid. The two tags on the rear show "46-13 3.54" and "T". Does that big T tag designate a twin traction rear? On a Scotsman? I would have expected the usual Dana 27...

[studegary]

One more thing... this car has a "TT" chrome piece on the trunk lid. The two tags on the rear show "46-13 3.54" and "T". Does that big T tag designate a twin traction rear? On a Scotsman? I would have expected the usual Dana 27...

Nice looking '58. A Twin Traction was an option on a '58 Scotsman sedan. The standard rear axle ratio for standard or OD transmissions in a '58 Scotsman sedan is 3.54:1.

[JoeHall]

If you wish to keep the stock shifter, remove the column from the car, disassemble, clean and inspect it from end to end. Sounds like you will definitely need a new shift collar which the shift lever goes into. They are available NOS, and usually the later type, that had morre, "meat" around the roll pin you mentioned. The extra meat helps them live longer. It may very well be that is all you need. In any case, replace any needed parts, then lube and reassemble. It will work slick as a whistle. Might need to readjust the linkage, after replacing parts. I prefer the column shift, and have done the above to several of them, successfully. It is a simple, but messy job, but you will be proud of your work afterward. And with the six cylinder setup, will enjoy 2-finger shifts. .

[StudeRich]

The Factory installed rear axle on a Champion or most Scotsman Models, will be a Dana 23 or 27 and they DID have the TT Option.
You know, for Mud and Snow, NOT Drag Racing!
The Axle Model is raised on the Web between the right Axle Tube socket and the Pumpkin.

If you did try to do the Top Shifter Taxi Cab floor shift option, it would be for a T-90, which uses the same 6 bolt top cover case as a T-86.
So unless this Scotty is a Super Rare V-8, it would have a T-96 and would not be a fit for the Top Shifter.

FYI: a T-98 is a Truck 4 Speed with a Compound Low Gear.

[Guest]

Duh! Of course I know that's a T-96, Rich. Don't know why I said 98. Maybe 'cause once I had a T-Cab with that 98 and almost never used first gear. :-)

Joe, thanks for the good advice on the shift collar. More meat is right! The one on there looks really flimsy and I, too, prefer the column shift. I'll begin the hunt for an NOS one.

[JoeHall]

I am sure you can read the Shop Manual, but to remove the column: remove the steering wheel and disconnect the wiring harness below the dash; remove the screws holding the rubber firewall seal; disconnect the linkage and clamp at the gear box; remove the driver's seat back; loosen the steering box mounts at the frame, and remove the top two; remove the u'clamp under the dash and drop the column down as far as it will go; bend the rubber firewall seal as needed to clear the dash; slip the column back, past the driver's set back and off the stem. While you're in there, it's a good time to replace that pesky rubber firewall seal that tends to dry rot and fall apart.

Take your time and do it right, and you will love the results!

[r1lark]

If you wish to keep the stock shifter, remove the column from the car, disassemble, clean and inspect it from end to end. Sounds like you will definitely need a new shift collar which the shift lever goes into. They are available NOS, and usually the later type, that had morre, "meat" around the roll pin you mentioned. The extra meat helps them live longer. It may very well be that is all you need. In any case, replace any needed parts, then lube and reassemble. It will work slick as a whistle. Might need to readjust the linkage, after replacing parts. I prefer the column shift, and have done the above to several of them, successfully. It is a simple, but messy job, but you will be proud of your work afterward. And with the six cylinder setup, will enjoy 2-finger shifts. .

To expand on what Joe said, another area of wear that I have found is the ball on the end of the shifter, and also the hole in the internal shifter tube that the shifter ball fits into. I don't know for sure, but these are probably still available also. Also, use a new grommet where the shifter fits into the shift collar.

[Ron Dame]

When I bought my Champ in 1990, the PO had put a hose clamp on the shift collar to hold the roll pin in. Here some 75,000 miles later, it's still there!

[Hallabutt]

Tom,

Good to see that you chose to buy Bill McK's Scotsman. You're the perfect owner for the car, the color really suits you.

Bill

[rockne10]

...another area of wear that I have found is the ball on the end of the shifter, and also the hole in the internal shifter tube that the shifter ball fits into.

I echo Paul's comment.
The play you can probably see around the roll pin WILL require replacing the shift collar, including a new roll pin and rubber grommet.
But I found the greatest wear was in the dimple that is tack welded to the column shifter tube, more so than the little ball end of the shift lever that fits in to that dimple.
If you have access to a welder you can add a little metal around the worn dimple, grind it down to level and use a die grinder to re-establish a clean and centered dimple to receive the shift lever.
On one occasion in my life I also experience an instance when the factory tack welds that hold the little plate with dimple to the column tube failed. Just for security, while you have it exposed you may wish to add a clean spot weld or two; maybe never required, but also maybe never hurts.
You will be very pleased with the result, and it will be good for another seventy years.

[Guest]

Thanks Rockne and everyone! Just wish I were good for another 70 years. I'm sure I'll understand it all when it out of the car and apart. Before I do that, I have to shuffle some cars around so will wait 'till I get her on the lift.

Bill, it's by chance I have two purple Studebakers! Didn't seek the color... just happened that way. :-)

[Mrs K Corbin]

Gonna beat a dead horse here...... Don't forget the rubber donuts at the transmission as well. They may be cracked or missing.

[Guest]

Well, I finally got around to doing this and printed out your step-by-step's, Joe. Worked like a charm and I have the business end of the steering column soaking in a tub of Purple Power. The shift 'eyes' and the rest of what resides in the engine compartment were particularly grubby. Once they get clean, I'll do a shift collar-ectomy. Oh and replace the rubber firewall seal, too! Thank you all for the advice!

[Mrs K Corbin]

you're lucky i didn't see that car first. I might have hit my 401k for the cash....LOL
BTW may I ask what you bought her for?

She looks like an easy daily driver.

Is it a Flat head 6, or V8?
I had a V8 commander I wish I had back.
You can put an underdash AC on a V8 Commander pretty easy. I did. Stole it from a president. didn't have it working before I sold the car unfortunately.