Electrical: Dash lights and Cigarette Lighter out on 1962 and 63 Lark

[go-studebaker]

Hi Blokes,
easier this year I put my 62 Lark Daytona Skytop back on the road that has 57k original km on it and took it up to Sweden from middle UK for the International Studebaker meet.

It had no dash lights and the cigarette was not working. Since I only found this out the day before we left and had no night time driving planned it was no issue.

I did check the fuses and could not see I had a problem.

So about a month ago, I thought I had better use my 63 Daytona Hardtop after I had done the brakes and front end. Blow me over with a feather - the dash lights and cigarette lighter are out on that car as well. Last time we took it to Switzerland a few years ago they were working.

Am I missing something here? Is there a fuse around that is out or is the problem in the reostat thing which is different on the 62 and 63 Larks ?

Any suggestions would be appreciated before I start diving into mastery of the dark arts of electricery.

Thanks for your help
Greg

[altair]

Try the simple thing first connect an earth wire from the battery to the chassis of the dash, you may have a bad earth. Were you a Ted?

[StudeRich]

The Original Studebaker Cigar Lighters have a small Hex Nut shaped FUSE between the Lighter and the Power wire, they are ALWAYS blown.

The Instrument lights being out on your '62 Lark is usually the Headlight Switch internal contacts have failed.

On your '63, it will be the small Dimmer/knob Unit under the Dash that has failed.

[go-studebaker]

Thanks Rich,
I was hoping not to replace the switches, but will pull my wallet out and buy some new ones.

Regards
Greg

[jclary]

Thanks Rich,
I was hoping not to replace the switches, but will pull my wallet out and buy some new ones.

Regards
Greg

Having a few spares of components like switches is not a bad thing. However, if you have patience, the ability to understand instrument/switch construction, and hands capable of delicate movements...most of these switches can be serviced by opening up, cleaning, and lubricating. From my experience, the most tedious part is when cold bending the small retaining tabs of the switch case without breaking them. If you manage that, the rest is usually not so difficult.

Whether push-pull, toggle, rotary, etc., all switches have contact points that are subject to corrosion & wear. Sometimes, you can overcome loss contact from corrosion by repeatedly operating the switch until the corrosive film is broken and contact reestablished. I'm always amazed at how the tiniest bit of corrosion can be such a big problem causing a circuit to lose conductivity. Having a spare switch is a great boost to your confidence when opening up a switch to repair it.

[TWChamp]

Exactly as John said, before bending any tabs, I'd try spraying contact cleaner on the contacts and lubricate the shaft first.
I still need to lubricate my hard to pull 1950 switches.