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  • Fuel System: Carter Carburetor Questions

    I currently have a Carter WA-1 carb on my Champion 170. The research I have done tells me this carb was used on cars about 10 years before my '52 truck was made. The records suggest there should be a Carter BBR1 carb on the truck. My first question, is there a big difference in the Carter carbs of this era? I have seen WA-1, WE, BBR1, AFB, W1 etc. How does the WA-1 compare to the BBR1?

    It looks like my carb was added at some point in the past and someone did some jerry rigging. In the first picture you can see the cover of the "Carter Climatic Control" is missing (not sure what this is suppose to do) and I have not seen a choke cable attached to the side as mine is. In the second picture you can see there is not only a hole in the valve but it does not close completely when the choke cable is pulled (choke cable is fully pulled out in the picture). This may explain my difficulty in starting it when cold. The valve is completely vertical when the choke cable is pushed in so that is correct. The bowl above the valve (red H in picture) has also been taller in other pics of WA-1 carbs I have seen.

    Are the various carbs interchangable? That is, could I remove the WA-1 and replace it with a BBR1 without too much difficulty? Is it worth changing? I assume the mounting holes would be the same.

    Anything else you see wrong? Third picture is just another view. For the limited driving I have done since getting the truck, it seems to run well. I am not familiar with Carter carbs but I assume they function pretty much the same as other brands.

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  • #2
    Someone converted the carb to a manual choke, normally kits for this include a cover and the internal parts on the choke are not showing as they are on yours. it was not uncommon to switch carbs around back in the day, they used what they had. From your pictures I would have concerns this carb will become troublesome at some point. if it were mine, I would be looking for the correct carb. Hopefully your linkage has not been modified such that it will not work on the correct carb. my two cents
    Milt

    1947 Champion (owned since 1967)
    1961 Hawk 4-speed
    1967 Avanti
    1961 Lark 2 door
    1988 Avanti Convertible

    Member of SDC since 1973

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    • #3
      What year is your pickup?
      I would check the Chassis Parts book to see what the correct carb is for your truck. This might be the correct carb, but if your truck didn't come from the factory with a hand choke, then I'd be looking for the choke cover, spring, and heat tube to the exhaust manifold. I can see the hole in the plate on your exhaust manifold, so it appears it may have originally had the automatic choke.

      I just bought manifolds and the carb off a 1949 Land Cruiser at a junk yard in Wisconsin. When I got home and looked up the carb in my Chassis Parts manual, I found out the carb is listed for 1947-8 Studebakers, so someone made a switch. It also had the choke cover removed and was changed to a hand choke.

      For sure your choke plate not fully closing is a cause for hard starting.

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      • #4
        My pickup is a '52. It has a hand choke in the cab. The literature I have read says that all 2R5 pickups were equipped with Carter BBR1 carbs, from '49 to '53. maybe someone that knows theirs is original can comment. From the pictures I have seen, the BBR1 uses a manual choke, which would correspond to my truck.

        I suspected the Carter Climatic Control might be for an automatic choke. It looks like a larger version of the auto choke that was on my '60 Beetle. It had an element inside that would expand when heated, opening the air valve. I actually prefer a manual choke as you have more control.

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        • #5
          All 2R trucks all had manual chokes. Automatic chokes were not available on trucks until the 1955 V8s.
          Skip Lackie

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          • #6
            So from what I am hearing, to go back to a manual choke carb I need to source a Carter BBR1? How do I determine if my linkage was changed to accommodate the WA-1? I would need to know how the BBR1 linkage looked and compare it to what I have. Or would posting pics help and others who have the correct carb can comment? Don't know the best way of doing this.

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            • #7
              It would appear that the BBR1 carb was quite popular in the trucks from about 1940 until the late '50's. I notice that they also have different numbers (I assume on the tag) and wanted to know if that was because the jetting was different? Is there any resource where I would be able to find out the jetting on the BBR1 carbs used in the 2R5, 2R10 and 2R15 trucks (they all used the same carb with the same tag number)? Or maybe someone has one and can let me know (venturi size, jetting etc) or even wants to sell one.

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              • #8
                Here is the documentation to the carb you should have. It should be a BBR1 633S or 2125S.
                Yes, your current carb was converted to manual choke. This was quite common back in the days.

                Nice day to all.
                Attached Files
                sigpic

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                • #9
                  I actually converted mine to a WA-1 with manual choke some time ago. The original was a BBR-1 633S that I could never get right, even after rebuild. So I put in the WA-1 and it runs fine.
                  What the real problem here (other than authenticity), is the choke butterfly is not closing enough. Adjust it and let us know.

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                  • #10
                    Thanks. Yes, I was going to adjust the cable to see if I could get the butterfly to close completely. How many inches does your choke cable pull out inside the cab?

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                    • #11
                      There will be no heat tube for a hand choke carb... tho one may look so for (his) W-carb w/ auto choke. I just adjusted my BBR on my 53' 2R6. Once correctly routed through the cowl, positioned in such a way for the least amount of internal wire resistance,...my choke requires about 1 inch of pull to close the choke valve. There is (should be) a spring that negates over-pulling. Its not perfect, but takes some practice to get it right in different temp/climate conditions.....like now as it gets cooler....GL (I'd try to buy all I need from a parts' truck-rebuild the carb, and go)

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                      • #12
                        FYI
                        Here is a list of carburetors for Studebaker’s by year.

                        Carburetor rebuild kits and parts for automotive, marine, farm and industrial

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                        • #13
                          I see there are a few Carter BBR carbs for sale on a few sites but they have different numbers. I assume these have different jet, venturi, etc sizes. Or is it more like the hole sizes are different (as described in the info provided by christophe). Is there a resource anywhere that gives the jetting?

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                          • #14
                            I see we must live close as I am in Welland. I have a Stromberg WW on a V8 truck intake manifold that is the right price. It is complete with linkage arms. OD solenoid and bracket( I think). If you think you can use it, its yours. Came on a car engine that was in a 55 truck. I put the engine in a car after rebuilding it and have no use for truck components. By the right price, I mean come and get it.
                            Bob
                            Bob
                            Welland Ontario
                            60 Lark Convertible
                            64 Daytona
                            sigpic
                            "They were meant to be driven ... so keep on cruizin"

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                            • #15
                              Sending you a PM Bob. Thanks.

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