Ye olde valve rocker arm adjustment problems- 1955 259 V8, Presiident State

[christophe]

I never tried it but the Gunson Click-Adjust Micrometer Tappet Adjuster is supposed to overcome this kind of trouble.

The instructions are here:http://www.gunson.co.uk//items/PDF/P...structions.pdf, in case you'd like to know how it works.

[cwsimpson]

I never tried it but the Gunson Click-Adjust Micrometer Tappet Adjuster is supposed to overcome this kind of trouble.

The instructions are here:http://www.gunson.co.uk//items/PDF/P...structions.pdf, in case you'd like to know how it works.

Wow- who knew?? Very interesting. Thanks
cws

[studegary]

About a half a Century ago, I watched the head mechanic from a Studebaker dealership adjust valves on many Studebaker V8s. He made a rough adjustment cold and static and the final adjustment warm and dynamic/running. He had one of those cut away valve covers, but claimed that it was too much of a nuisance to use.

[doofus]

The Gunson tool wont work on Studes,made for a lock nut and adj. screw set up,stude has adj nut under the rocker so no access to it. Luck Doofus PS I do it cold,always have with excellent results.

[cwsimpson]

Thanks, everyone,for all your help. I have learned a heckuvalot from this and other Stude forums I have been involved in. I appreciate all the info and different opinions on what may work and what doesn't. Regardless of how we feel on certain issues, we all love our Studes and want to keep driving 'em forever!

[cwsimpson]

After rechecking measuremnts, everything seemed okay but there was a very discerable click coming from the right hand side. Ran withou cover and noticed that 3/8 rockers weren't getting ANY oil. Exactly what Altair was talking about ! Next move is to take rocker assemblies off and clean as well as pushrods. Better do both sides... suggestions?

[55 56 PREZ 4D]

How were the valves adjusted from the factory [cold static or warm running ?] and did the valves need to be adjusted at the dealer before delivery ?

[cwsimpson]

How were the valves adjusted from the factory [cold static or warm running ?] and did the valves need to be adjusted at the dealer before delivery ?

I have no idea, but for some reason I want to assume warm running. I don't know if it was part of a dealer prep or not.

[studegary]

How were the valves adjusted from the factory [cold static or warm running ?] and did the valves need to be adjusted at the dealer before delivery ?

I think that it was part of the 1000 mile service/check up in the early 1950s.

I just looked in a 1953 Commander Owner's Manual. Spring and Fall services both include torqueing head bolts and valve adjustment. This is when the average car was driven about 10,000 miles, or less, per year.

[JoeHall]

I think too much is being made here, of a simple task. You can set them cold, warm or hot with engine stopped or running. If opting for engine stopped, there are probably half dozen ways to find a suitable spot on the cam heel to adjust each valve. You can set them on the tight side of spec, as I understand some racers do, or way loose (I set them at .030"). Any way you choose to adjust them, the end goal is the same: clearance at or near spec when running. If adjusted properly, each valve usually has a light tic, at idle.

No matter how you adjust them, you should plan on doing it again in 10,000 to 15,000 miles.

[55 56 PREZ 4D]

Warm, running would mean adjustment done either on a test stand or somewhere near the end of the assembly line.
In either case there would have been a mess to clean. With evidence of stains on the engine and vehicle.
An oil stained new car wouldn't have been a good selling point.

[Dan Timberlake]

My most favoritest type of feeler gages -

https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-68150-Go-No-Go-Feeler-Gauge/dp/B000HI9E7U

It was about the only way to make sense of 1996 Honda Accord 4 cyl valve adjustment, and really good for just about everything else.

[Joe V]

This is the way I always do the valves in mine. Always cold, and always on the small side when gapping. Some will say its better to have some clatter. I prefer to have as little noise as possible. Its fast, easy and I haven't broken anything with this method in almost 50 years.

Get #1 to Top Dead Center
Exh.- 1 – 3 – 4 -8
Int.- 1- 2 – 5 - 7

Get #6 to Top Dead Center
Exh.- 2 – 5 – 6 – 7
Int.- 3 – 4- 6 - 8

My first adjustment attempt was at operating temp with the engine running...what a mess. After a week or so the vehicle started idling very rough. After a few forum searches I determined I probably did some bad exhaust adjustments. I was getting ready to either buy a valve cover I can cut the top so I wouldn’t make such a mess or have a shop down the street do it for me. After seeing Sal’s method I thought I’d give it a try, one thing I found out halfway through is i need to manually move the rocker arm up and down a few times then move it up so I can slide the gauge in for a proper reading. I went back and redid everything just to make sure and wouldn’t you know some of the gaps were out of spec.

The vehicle fired right up, idled fine with just a little bit of valve chatter. It drove well with good power. I now feel confident enough to do this every 10k miles. Thanks Sal!