Generator brush life?

[Ron Dame]

I don't know if anyone makes a electronic regulator for a Generator.
Bob's Page is http://www.studebaker-info.org/
As for shorting the field terminal. Works with Delco Generators and some Autolite and Prestolite. Other Autolite and Prestolite generators need the field terminal powered to produce a output.
Also Prestolite Alternators need their field terminal powered to test for output.
Ron

The main pages are there, but the tech tips is 404

[christophe]

The site worked just fine for me. Here is what he says about it but, as said previously, I think this applies only to alternator regulators.

If you have your old regulator housing you can purchase an adjustable
solid state marine unit and place it inside so it looks just like stock.
Once the solid state unit is placed inside the stock housing hook it up
to the original terminals, adjust the output, close her up, and you are
all set. The decals are still available from Stude International and
others if you want to freshen it up. The solid state marine units are
available at NAPA for about $40

The unit was in the Avanti when I bought it. The previous owner said he
got it from NAPA. It came as a kit and I still have the instructions.
The instructions say Prestolite Kit No. 90-2814 Electronic Voltage Regulator
Retro-fit Package. The actual regulator is a Transpo unit but different
from the number in your book. On the regulator it says Transpo
M5-IS6A 12V-221.

Transpo website is http://www.transpo.de/Catalog Once in the web site
I located my electronic unit and another electronic unit specifically
designed as a replacement to be used with Prestolite ALE type alternators.
The Transpo site also has cross referances to all other major parts supplier
numbers. My unit is Transpo P8-404A 14.2V Adjustable or NAPA part No.
VR1006. The Prestolite ALE replacement unit is Transpo P8-352A 14.2V
Adjustable or NAPA VR1008. The only apparent diffence is in how the
connections are made. Dimensions may be different also since they did
not give physical specs. The Transpo website list a number for technical
support also if you want to call and verify dimensions. The site also has
electronic regulators in what appear to be stock cases but again I don't
know if the mounting holes are the same. Another possible question for
Transpo tech support.

Jason Ford jford@greenbaynet.com June 2001

======================================================
(Another: Jan 2003)

Basically, the update gives you two choices: Use the larger Transpo
regulator (it no longer is able to fit into a stock regulator housing
without being cut down on either side and the top.... but it is
possible, and I am doing just this with one).
Again, one of our members wrote to say he bought and is using this new
Transp regulator and reports that is bolts DIRECTLY into the same
location on his 1963 Avanti, using the original screws and mounting
holes...... and works great. Unlike the Prestolite electronic
conversion, this one has a set screw that lets you vary the voltage
output of the regulator.

The other choice is to get the Prestolite replacement, Prestolite part
# #90-2814, which will fit very nicely inside a gutted, original
Prestolite regulator housing. The wiring diagram will be similar to the
one published in AOAI / Issue 120.
=======================================
Another (JAn 2003)
I put a Napa/Echlin solid state unit into my old can, and it's been
working fine. It's a very small unit, so it fits nicely. It was VR-1006
==================================
The Prestolite 90-2814 is a voltage regulator kit, the regulator alone is
8-410.
I had checked with Prestolite on the availability of the 90-2814 or of the
8-410 which is the voltage regulator I used 10 plus years ago and did an
article on.

Bad news! It has been discontinued as of 10/29/2002
---------
(Jan 31, 2003)
1 1/2 years ago, Transpo discontinued the Transpo 590

There is another company that makes an almost identical unit. but it is
available only from auto-electric rebuilders. The unit is WAI #35-113. WAI is
the name of the company.

Go to my website listed below, go to the Updates and
Qustions page, and look at the entry for 10/1/01 for information on cost and
a source to order from. In addition to the article in AVANTI MAGAZINE, I show
how to do the conversion on p. 87 of my book.
Stan Gundry, Author/Publisher
What The Shop Manual Won't Tell You: Studebaker Avanti Restoration and
Maintenance. For information about this book, go to: www.AvantiPublishing.com
If you have questions, write me at:

sgundry@aol.com

[Ron Dame]

Thanks. I can get to Bob's main page, but still the link to tech tips comes up 404 for me.

[altair]

The manual is only telling you how to polarize it does not say you have to polarize after connecting and disconnecting. Polarizing is only used to confirm current direction, by disconnecting and re-connecting terminals will not effect current flow direction. If the battery is momentarily connected up backwards, well that is a different story.

[christophe]

The manual is only telling you how to polarize it does not say you have to polarize after connecting and disconnecting. Polarizing is only used to confirm current direction, by disconnecting and re-connecting terminals will not effect current flow direction. If the battery is momentarily connected up backwards, well that is a different story.

You're right. I took it from there.

[Ron Dame]

Hells bells. I installed the new regulator, and still no charge. Grounded the field (B Circuit) at the genny and had virtually no voltage at the the armature terminal. Stupid, lazy, useless, only guy in town 'rebuilder'.

[TWChamp]

Hells bells. I installed the new regulator, and still no charge. Grounded the field (B Circuit) at the genny and had virtually no voltage at the the armature terminal. Stupid, lazy, useless, only guy in town 'rebuilder'.

I could see that coming. Wish you were closer, then I'd check it out for you. I never turn a commutator unless it has rough or burned bars, which is almost never. I polish the commutator on my lathe by using fine crocus cloth and spinning the armature both directions. This will leave each bar with a very slight rounded edge as the brush enters and leaves the bars, and with the smooth finish I expect the brushes will outlive me.

With the belt removed, when you polarize the generator, it should spin fairly slowly in the same direction it normally runs. If it fails this test, then you know it needs to be repaired. If it passes this test, then it still might need to be repaired, but at least this is a good first check.

[Ron Dame]

Arrgghh

Found another generator shop in a nearby town and took the genny there. $35 later, I have a good genny.

It seems that a few months ago, when I lost a washer, never to be seen again, it bounced inside the genny and wedged shorting out the field coils. But I got new brushes and a new bearing for my money, so ok, I did good for the money.

A stupid washer.

[RadioRoy]

That washer was on a mission of intrigue and espionage.