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  • Rear Axle: jeep Dana 35 swap

    Has anyone tried to swap out the studebaker rear axel for a Dana 35 or 44 out of a wrangler or Cherokee? I haven't measured them yet to see if the width is the same but I think it should be close. I was wanting to try this in my 62 lark to get away from the tapered axels.

    Thanks
    Jasper

  • #2
    I'm putting a 65/66 Mustang rear in my daughter's 59 Silver Hawk. It within 1/8" (width wise), bolt pattern is the same also.


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    Treblig
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    • #3
      That's a good idea. Is it a bolt in swap or are you having to move the spring mounts?

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      • #4
        Originally posted by jwitt View Post
        That's a good idea. Is it a bolt in swap or are you having to move the spring mounts?

        Yes, you have to move the spring mounts but you end up with a rear end that you can easily/quickly get parts for at the local parts store. I plan to reuse the spring plates so that the shocks aren't a problem.

        treblig

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        • #5
          Are you using that Lincoln 125 mig to set the spring perches.

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          • #6
            I use either my wire feed welder (good to 3/16" thickness) or my 220 stick welder. I weld an inch or so in one spot then move to the other perch and weld a little that way I don't overheat one area too much. I also give each weld some time to cool off before I continue. This way there's no chance of warping the tubes.
            Also if you use a wrangler or Cherokee rear end you'd have to get it narrowed AND move the perches!!

            treblig

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            • #7
              The stick is a much better choice in my opinion, I have done a number of them using a miller mig 210. As you mentioned be real careful not to twist the tubes. I had to fix one that was brought in and i stripped it and sent it to Curry, actually I didn't send it but I took it as they are 8 miles away from the shop I was in. They had to cut the ends off and start over, it was a 9 inch ford.

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              • #8
                A ford 8.8 out of a later ford explorer is real close in width if you shorten up the long side and add spring perches. I think 57" and some change. Just under 58"

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                • #9

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                  • #10
                    Still not sure why you decided to change the rear end, was it the way the axels look or some weakness I haven't had time to learn about just yet. I got the truck it had a good well used puller that made removal of the rear drums a piece of cake.

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by jwitt View Post
                      Has anyone tried to swap out the studebaker rear axel for a Dana 35 or 44 out of a wrangler or Cherokee? I haven't measured them yet to see if the width is the same but I think it should be close. I was wanting to try this in my 62 lark to get away from the tapered axels.

                      Thanks
                      Jasper
                      The wheel bolt pattern may be different-multiple Jeep patterns depending on year and model http://www.wheelsupport.com/jeep-bolt-pattern/

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                      • #12
                        Why not call Phil Harris and Fairborn Studebaker and get the Moser axle kit.. No axle change or tapered axles. I did this on my R1 Hawk and it worked perfectly.
                        Dan White
                        64 R1 GT
                        64 R2 GT
                        58 C Cab
                        57 Broadmoor (Marvin)

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                        • #13
                          My brother and I have used three set of Fairborn /Moser axles replacement easy to do. I think if you break one your car is way more powerful than most. Also the stock brake system fits on and also you have new outer bearings and wheel studs when finished no need for axle puller when servicing brakes.

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