Electrical: Putting a one wire alternator in my 62gt hawk

[Jimmie]

Ready to install a one wire alternator:
1. The fellow at the parts store said that I would need to run a small wire from the hot wire coming from the alternator over to one of the blades where it looks like a plug might be inserted. Is this true and to which blade?

2. Also, the pulley on the "new" alternator is quite a bit smaller than the one currently on the car. Again, the fellow at the parts store said that the size of the pulley doesn't matter. This is going to cause the new alternator to turn faster but I suppose that the regulator within it will regulate the output as it needs to be?

3. I plan to install a volt meter in the car where the AMP meter is now. Hoping to find a volt meter that will fit the same opening.

Suggestion will be greatly appreciated.
Jimmie

[TWChamp]

I'm not a fan of one wire alternators, because they don't excite right off like the stock wiring, and they don't give you the same accurate regulation of the stock wiring. The reason for the smaller pulley is to make them excite sooner that the larger pulley. In fact I like the stock generator just fine. I find them very reliable and easier to work on than alternators, if something needs to be repaired.

Here's a link to the picture for a one wire connection.

http://www.disconnecteddocumentary.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/11/combination-black-delco-alternator-wiring-diagram-themes-sample-ideas-wire-themes-important.jpg

[Hawkowner]

I am in the process of doing the same thing . There is a neat program on Google that figures belt and pulley speed.
A 6 in crank pulley and a 2/1/2 alt pulley will turn the alt 9200 at 4000 engine rpm.
The Delco 10 si will stand 12000 rpm intermittently per the Delco application manual.
A true one wire alt needs only one 8 or 10 gauge to the starter solonid.
The volt meter only needs a B+ source an a ground . If you install the volt meter in the dash opening you will need to connect the wires on the two terminals together because the volt meter will not Cary the load.
Hawkowner

[Bill A]

Personally I like an alternator upgrade from an old genny. There is a company that takes a generator body and installs an alternator in the frame. I have read about them but have never installed one. The single wire units have been installed on upgrade conversions for a long time usually because they are much simpler to do and work. Face a big alternator many years ago was a 35 amp and generators didn't come close. You couldn't run a modern set of headlamps and a modern stereo at the same time. The cars I used to work on have alternators that have in excess of 200 amps, some are water cooled so all that info and a buck will get you a small coffee today... Good luck

[E. Davis]

The one wire alternator on my Hawk works just fine with no problems so far. I might mention that someone recommended running the wire from the alternator to the solenoid through a circuit breaker. I don't remember why but I notice mine is that way but I didn't install it. Someone on this forum probably has the reason if there really is one.

[Mike Van Veghten]

Jimmy -

If you have a true "one wire", all you need to do is run a large gauge wire from the Batt post on the alternator to the battery or the battery post on the starter.
Depending on your alternators output will provide the size of the wire. An 8 or 10 gauge wire will work with most medium/higher amp alt's. There are many tables on the internet if you want to be sure. Try Power Master Alternators, Ron Frances, American Auto Wire, PainLess Performance Auto Wire for wire recommendations.
Some sort of fuse or breaker is also recommended.

Don't worry about the "excitement" rpm. The one wire regulator has a specific rpm it needs to "start" working. Under normal conditions, the "choke" rpm is plenty to get the alternator working. Once it starts working, the rpm can go below that "exciter" rpm, and it will still function just fine.

Been using them for years on many cars with zero problems.

Mike

P.S. - Just make sure that you've chosen the proper amp alt. Add up all of the items you have, their amp draw, and get that amp alternator. Headlights, radio, heater, etc., all on at the same time. Most of the above company names will provide this information.

[wdills]

I used an Autozone DL7127-12M alternator (63 amp) for my Hawk. A 10 awg wire from BAT terminal on alternator to battery. I also ran a 16 wag wire from Terminal 2 on the alternator back to a 12V wire under the dash. Can't remember exactly where I connected it under the dash. This is a sensing wire and is supposed to cause the alternator to run at a slightly higher output voltage to compensate for voltage drop through the wiring under the dash.

Mike is right, my alternator always excites (starts working) at choked RPM during start-up.

I used an Autometer 2592 voltmeter. It fits the hole in the dash and looks a lot like the stock Studebaker gauges.

Good Luck.

[345 DeSoto]

This is what you need, and it's what I used on mine. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Alternator-A...5XZGQD&vxp=mtr
It works with a 10SI or a 12SI alternator. Simplest thing to install, and prevents current feed back through the alternator when the engine is of. Any questions, PM me...

[fh4ever]

a little confused here...I have been running a store bought GM 10SI one wire alternator on a non stude vehicle for 15 years and the 2 male blade connectors are not even used...so I know it is self exciting. It works fine and just a quick pump on the gas pedal, charging begins...no issue here. ..I am now investigating converting a 10SI alternator to 6v by installing the internal regulator kit. I am under the impression that all 10SI has the internal regulating but I am not sure if they all are self exciting... especially when I am seeing wiring diagrams using the exciter connection.
So...are some 10SI's self exciting like mine (no exciter wire connected) and other 10SI's need that exciter wire ? or are they all the same its just that the second wire excites it instantly?
I also saw where an internal 40 ohm resistor has to be removed to make it self exciting..is this the primary difference ?

http://www.disconnecteddocumentary.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/11/combination-black-delco-alternator-wiring-diagram-themes-sample-ideas-wire-themes-important.jpg

[JoeHall]

I too have been running the 1-amp alternators on Studes for years, and agree with the others who posted on the merits of a 1-wire alternator; also agree with the adapter in post #8, which makes the alternator instantly begin to charge, upon starting the engine; no need to flick the throttle, for it to begin charging. Also, the OEM amp gauge in all Hawks 56-64, will work just fine with the alternator. For alternator output, I have learned to stay below 70 amp, as the higher amp ones tend to whine, or "sing", and the extra amperage just is not needed. A 60-65 amp powers the EFI, AC, and whatever else is on the two GTs in our stable. Do not worry about the amp gauge limit, the higher amp alternator will not hurt the gauge whatsoever.

You may need to buy a slightly shorter belt, due to the smaller pulley on the alternator. A side benefit is, your lights will all run a bit brighter too. Enjoy

[fh4ever]

my goal was to get an used 10SI , buy the internal regulator to convert it to 6 volt, and connect only the main battery lead...and have no connections to terminal 1 and 2...just like my non studebaker vehicle which has been working just fine 15 years without the other two wires ever being connected. In fact the two terminals have a blank cover over them. So that is the true single wire version! My question is can the standard used junkyard version of the 10SI work without the #2 terminal energized? will it self energize with a tap on the gas pedal? or did the supplier I bought mine from do something internally to make it work without #1 and #2 terminal connected? does my question make sense?

[studebakerkid]

I went with a 95 amp in Pinkie and I am glad that I did as it charges up the battery faster and allows be to run plenty of radio and amp which takes 35 amps by its self. I put a 95 amp in my 65 and it too worked great. I only have a 35 amp in the wagon and that aint enough. I had to drive the wagon a few months this Winter as my Bronco II manual self destructed and driving at night I had to run with the defroster on low and the heater fans off.