How long should a lawn tractor last?

[garyash]

I bought my Craftsman LT1000 lawn tractor with 6-speed manual transmission from Sears back in 2001, along with a 3-tub bagger system and a front-mounted snow blower. The 16 hp and 42-inch mower deck are enough for the lawn area I have. However, after 15 summers and 14 winters, the tractor is definitely showing its age. When it's working right, it does cut the grass OK and it throws the snow well. While the body is rust-free (stored in a shed) and the engine runs fine, the chassis and mounting points have developed stress cracks from flexing. It has 800-1000 hours of actual operating time. It may be time to replace it, but it won't be cheap. Here's some of what I have fixed over the years:

Welded multiple stress cracks in the stamped-steel front axle
Replaced the transaxle once (no reverse)
Welded and reinforced the transaxle mounting brackets because of fractures and cracks
Welded on 3/8-16 nuts where threads had stripped from pierced and threaded holes in chassis
Drilled and tapped replacement transaxle for larger mounting bolts due to stripped threads in aluminum housing
Fabricated new skids for the bottom of the snow blower

Of course, this doesn't include replacement of mower deck spindles on 4 or 5 occasions due to hitting rocks with the blade, but that can always happen here in New England. Ditto for replacing shear pins in the snow blower when it tried to eat the Sunday newspaper buried under the snow.

I'd go buy a new John Deere hydrostatic drive tractor, like a D125, but it would also mean getting a new bagger set-up and a new snow blower, etc., doubling the cost. Kind of like CASOs, frugal New Englanders try to avoid spending big bucks. On the other hand, doing full overhauls on the tractor is getting old and tiresome. Winter is coming and I don't want to get stuck without a way to clean my long driveway. Is spending $100 for replacement parts now and then just part of the game? How do I know when to quit fixing the old one and start all over again? How does anyone rate the smaller John Deere products relative to others? It seems like Husqvarna is the company that owns and makes many of the other brands like Craftsman, AYP, MTD, Bolens, Yardman, Huskee, and most of the ones from the "big box" stores, perhaps even the smaller John Deeres.

See this for who makes which brands: http://todaysmower.com/2011/riding-mower-brands/

[Skip Lackie]

Good question -- one for the ages. I generally am pleased with Craftsman products, but we are disappointed in the performance of the new Craftsman riding mower that we we bought last year. Although it has 24hp, it bogs down in deep grass much worse than our 1987, 17-hp Deere that we have been using for 18 years. The hydrostatic trans and the power steering on the JD also make it much easier to operate in tight quarters. The JD is still here, but is beginning to burn oil and smoke a bit when stressed -- but has no frame cracks or other failures after 1000 hours of use. So if you want to come down to take it home, let me know. But it has no bagger or snow thrower.

BTW, a word to the wise. The new Craftsman is loaded with safety features that greatly reduce its utility. For example, there is no brake pedal. Instead there is a "forward" pedal that acts as a sort of gas pedal -- but if you take your foot off of it, the brakes slam on automatically. Extremely inconvenient. Not sure whether that dumb idea came from Sears or from the safety freaks. We're actually thinking of selling it at a loss and buying an older unit without all the protections.

[sweetolbob]

Faced the same dilemma two years ago when my 96 White 18 HP Tractor gave up the ghost. I decided then it was time to separate the functions. My lawn mowing doesn't require a large mower so that was handled by a $700 unit I purchased from the Surplus Equipment Store at Sears.

The snow moving got a bit more pricey as I upgraded the equipment. I do about 1700 ft of driveway between mine and my neighbors drives. That is a killer on the tractor/blower setup. I purchased a used Kubota RTV-900 and 72" plow for about $8000. That handles my plowing with little effort as the 21HP diesel is about unstoppable and will probably out live me going forward.

I have several acres of woods so I can use the Kubota year around but the bottom line is it might be time to separate the function as your lawn mower may be good for grass for another 15 years and another piece of equipment could be the backup you want.



Bob

[wittsend]

I have an 8HP, 1973 Montgomery Wards 38" riding mower. I bought it in 1992 for $90 and I still currently use it. So. Cal has a short mowing season. It probably runs 30 minutes at a mow, - about five times a year. I use it to mow the back half of my "sprawling" suburban 1/3 acre yard (considered quite large for So. Cal.). With our current drought it is now about 3 times a year. The rear tires are original and 42 years old.

The starter gear was broken when I acquired it but it was replaced for $3. The hard rubber front tires eventually failed and I replaced them with $5 Harbor Freight, air fill, hand truck wheels/tires. Other than that I've change the oil about twice in the time I've owned it.

I kind of think of it as the Hoyt-Clagwell tractor Oliver Douglas drove on Green Acres.

[studegary]

I suggest/recommend the solution that I came to many years ago. I used to mow my lawn and use a snow blower for the driveway. Now, I hire someone to come and mow and to plow the driveway. I think that it is cost effective when one considers the cost of equipment, upkeep cost and operating cost, plus I do not have to go out in sub-zero weather in blowing snow.
There are a lot of people in this business (in this area) but I have to find a new vendor every few years due to turnover.

[Jeff_H]

My circa 1968 Snapper rear engine rider finally got retired in 2011. My dad bought it 2nd hand about 1975 and it was used to mow on the farm for many years. Original 5hp tecumseh engine wore out and was overhauled by me in HS ag shop class in 1982. That lasted a few more years until a replacement short block was put in. The timing was never set right after that and it was too hard to start so it was left to set in the back corner of the shed. I got it in 1998 and got the timing fixed and a new carb. I used it until the rod must have let go while mowing in 2011 as it sounded like a box of rocks was dropped in the engine and after it coasted to a stop, there was 0 compression. The mower chassis was well worn and as with your Craftsman, stress cracks had been welded up a few times. I think the base of the steering column had been welded at least 3 times.

I replaced it with a MTD (generally considered a low end brand) 42" lawn tractor. The first thing I did after getting it out of the crate was disconnect the safety switch that would shut off the engine if you tried to back up with the blades engaged. I have a lot of trees and other maneuvering obstacles in my yard and shutting off the blades to back up and turn in tight corners was unacceptable. The only real issues I have had so far is 1 deck spindle blew its bearings this summer and its now on the 3rd set of blades. I never even get the chance to sharpen the blades before it wears off the wing tips so that it won't throw the grass out very well anymore. It sure uses a lot more fuel compared to that old snapper for the same size of yard. Takes less time though.

[Skip Lackie]

Faced the same dilemma two years ago when my 96 White 18 HP Tractor gave up the ghost. I decided then it was time to separate the functions. My lawn mowing doesn't require a large mower so that was handled by a $700 unit I purchased from the Surplus Equipment Store at Sears.

The snow moving got a bit more pricey as I upgraded the equipment. I do about 1700 ft of driveway between mine and my neighbors drives. That is a killer on the tractor/blower setup. I purchased a used Kubota RTV-900 and 72" plow for about $8000. That handles my plowing with little effort as the 21HP diesel is about unstoppable and will probably out live me going forward.

I have several acres of woods so I can use the Kubota year around but the bottom line is it might be time to separate the function as your lawn mower may be good for grass for another 15 years and another piece of equipment could be the backup you want.


Bob

I should have added to my post above that I did the same thing as Bob -- separated the functions. We have a fairly new Craftsman walk-behind snow blower that works well. And left over from when we had a much longer driveway, we still have a low-end (ie, non-hydraulic) snowplow that mounts to my 1/2-ton, 4WD pickup. Haven't used it lately though.

[sasquatch]

I've got a 1978 Dayton (MTD) tractor with a 16HP single cylinder B&S engine with hydro static drive that I bought used 25-30 years ago. I've replaced the tires and the three point hitch hydraulic lift cylinder and had the starter/generator rebuilt. No grass and very little snow here but I do pull a 48" rear blade for clearing the weeds off my acre of dirt. It's the only tractor I've ever owned so I can't compare it to anything but I feel it's a decent tractor.

[Colgate Studebaker]

After building a new house on 1 3/4 acres in Wisconsin in 1987, we bought a used Case 44" with the blower for the drive. In 1991 I traded it in on a new Simplicity 48" and a separate Ariens walk behind blower. All went well for years until 2007 when the clutch went out. I replaced it, then the spindles bearings went out. I replaced them and then it became one thing after another. I then bought a new 2006 Simplicity 54" and sold the '91 locally. It is nice having power steering and some of the goodies on it. When we moved to Florida in 2013 we decided to have a lot less lawn to cut, and didn't think the big tractor would be needed. I'm glad we kept it, as the 25' around the house and garage only take about 30 minutes to cut, trim, and pretty up. So how long "should" they last depends on lots of factors. It doesn't matter the make and model, I think, as much as how it is used and maintained. My 2 cents worth, Bill.

[jackb]

I have a 26 yo Toro for the grass (needs some ether to start, burns a little oil... but does the job. I have a 73' Gravely LS with 30 in. mower head, pivoting snow blade & a blower. Very labor intensive, but a good workout for me.

[SN-60]

This is the MOST depressing thread I've ever read on this forum......I WAS just beginning to forget about last February!

[Kurt]

I have a 1993 John Deere 322 with a 50" deck. I bought it at my grandfathers estate sale in 2004. He bought it brand. new. Power steering and hydraulics front and rear. Use it only for mowing. It is a great old mower. When it breaks I fix it. I am not sure it won't run another 22 years.

[jclary]

After building a new house on 1 3/4 acres in Wisconsin in 1987, we bought a used Case 44" with the blower for the drive. In 1991 I traded it in on a new Simplicity 48" and a separate Ariens walk behind blower. All went well for years until 2007 when the clutch went out. I replaced it, then the spindles bearings went out. I replaced them and then it became one thing after another. I then bought a new 2006 Simplicity 54" and sold the '91 locally. It is nice having power steering and some of the goodies on it. When we moved to Florida in 2013 we decided to have a lot less lawn to cut, and didn't think the big tractor would be needed. I'm glad we kept it, as the 25' around the house and garage only take about 30 minutes to cut, trim, and pretty up. So how long "should" they last depends on lots of factors. It doesn't matter the make and model, I think, as much as how it is used and maintained. My 2 cents worth, Bill.

Here we are...A bunch of STUDEBAKER folks discussing how long a lawn tractor last. I mean, if our combined collection of thousands of Studebakers ...the newest being a half century old...if we can keep them going, surely we can keep a lawn tractor working way beyond average statistical expectation. I'm soon to be seventy one years old. Last summer, I bought my first "NEW" mower...ever. I'm not hurting for mowers. I've got plenty I've rescued from those with the, "I'd rather replace than repair," attitude. Currently, I have two Allis-Chalmers lawn tractors (built by Simplicity), a Simplicity, and a John Deere commercial walk behind with a riding sulky. The new mower is a Hustler Super Duty zero turn with a 54 inch cut. I'd been wanting a Zero Turn for some time, but had difficulty justifying the expense to "HER" standards. All it took to overcome that was for two of my old standby tractors to develop mechanical problems a couple of days before company was coming. She couldn't stand the thought of visitors seeing a few blades of grass too high. So...now I have a zero turn toy. As us incurable tinkers are prone to do, the first thing I did, was modify it by installing a set of LED headlights. That way, I can use more daylight playing with my cars and still mow the lawn.

This is the MOST depressing thread I've ever read on this forum......I WAS just beginning to forget about last February!

Funny 'cept to you folks who live where snowy winter is the norm. Mowing grass is about the most harsh thing we southerners do with a lawn tractor. You guys in winter-land take it to a whole new level. One of my Allis-Chalmers tractors was originally owned by a New Englander who moved south. I've never used the snow plow that came with it. I believe it is a late 1970's model, hydrostatic drive, electric actuator controlled lift, and built like a tank. The cast iron Kohler engine uses a shaft drive connected to a gear box, that then drives the hydrostatic trans-axle. Even more "over-built" is the variable speed power take-off pulley that operates the mower deck, snowblower, and rear tiller.

How long should a lawn tractor last? For you northern "year 'round" users...'bout half as long as one would here.

[sweetolbob]

How long should a lawn tractor last? For you northern "year 'round" users...'bout half as long as one would here.

JC

I've cut a lot of grass and plowed a lot of snow in my life and the majority of wire and rod I've burned and mechanical work I've done on my equipment has been caused by plowing/blowing snow. I'd guess the snow removal eats the equipment up at at least 3-4 times faster than the grass cutting. Not many folks up here care what you hauled in the 4X4 pickup they are buying but you'll really get their attention if the answer to "Did it plow snow?" is yes.

Bob

[jnormanh]

Grandpa worked as a carpenter from the time he was a teenager until about age 70. He only ever owned one hammer, although he did have to replace the handle or head from time to time. He never bought a new hammer because he never saw one he though was better then the one he had.

I have two cars. One is 56 years old, the other is 19. They both suit me, and, other than a Tesla which I cannot afford, I see no new car I'd rather have. My wife would prefer to still be driving her '92, but it suffered a terminal illness. I just repair the cars I have.

So my advise is: If you like your present tractor, and it does what you want, keep repairing it.