Thanks for the feedback Matt....... I have 2 studes and plan to restore them both to show condition..... Show them a couple of 3 years after each is done just to see what they do.... Then I don't care..... will just drive them and keep them as nice as I can.....
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Hey Matt, is someone Now making Delrin Bushings with holes drilled and Zerk fittings, or did you do that ?StudeRich
Second Generation Stude Driver,
Proud '54 Starliner Owner
SDC Member Since 1967Comment
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Rich, I bought the A-arm bushings from Russ Ware, he’s the only source as far as I know. They came with the holes drilled and tapped for zerk fittings.
Update: This afternoon I pulled the oil pan and rear main cap. The leak was coming from the bottom half of the rear main seal.. And I have no idea why. The seal was installed correctly and looks perfect. Crankshaft is NOS and slippery smooth. I don’t get it.
I installed a new seal and put the oil pan back on. Still need to install the starter and exhaust pipes before I can fire it up.
All I can do is cross my fingers that I fixed it. I was really hoping to see something obvious.Comment
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Yesterday I fired the engine and ran it for a while at varying RPM’s. After about half an hour.. It started leaking oil from the rear main seal again.
Last weekend at the local car club gathering I was talking to a few guys about this. One asked what kind of oil pressure the engine had. 45 psi at hot idle, and pushing up to 80 at 1500 RPM. He suggested the oil pressure might be too high and I thought it was funny.. Usually it’s the opposite problem with old cars.
After the new rear seal started leaking I reconsidered his suggestion. I pulled the pressure relief valve out and verified that it was installed correctly. I then added an extra copper sealing washer to space the screw out a bit.
The hot idle pressure dropped down to 35 psi, and 60 psi at 1500 RPM. I ran the engine for another hour and it’s dry. No more leak.
So, apparently, 80 PSI of oil pressure is too much for the rear main seal.
Last edited by mbstude; 03-19-2023, 04:00 AM.Comment
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Matthew,
It sounds like along with a healthy dose of horse shoes, you also had the luck of the Irish helping you!
BillComment
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I’m just glad it worked out. This is the smoothest, nicest running engine I’ve put together thus far. The thing really runs great.. I wasn’t happy when it puked oil all over the floor.Originally posted by Buzzard View Post
Leaks aren’t allowed!
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It's not leaking... it's marking it's territory!There's one in every crowd, fer cryin' out loud... why was it always turnin' out to be me?Comment
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My dogs already do enough of that.. I don’t need cars doing it too!Originally posted by Silver Hawk 59 View Post
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Last edited by mbstude; 03-21-2023, 02:05 PM.Comment
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That's an interesting dealership in that aside from selling Studebaker, they also sold Checker and Citroen. I can't imagine there having ever been another dealership to handle all three of those makes. Without Studebaker, they wouldn't have had any trucks to offer to their customers... until 1965 came along, maybe they then took on another manufacturer like Datsun or Toyota being they offered pickup trucks. -
You missed out on a beauty last week!
Maybe you can reach out to the seller. Maybe has others.
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This weekend’s progress shifted towards the back of the car. I rebuilt the rear brakes, serviced the axle, and installed NOS axle shafts (one shaft was bent).
The least fun job on the car so far - replacing the shackle bushings in the frame. One down, one to go.
I wasted a lot of time trying to figure out a way to do it. Using a piece of all-thread with various spacers and sockets in an attempt to draw it out resulted in breaking the all-thread.
I ended up using a pneumatic Body Saw to slice the inner sleeve. That made it possible to collapse the outer sleeve just enough to push the bushing out with an air hammer.
Once I get the other bushing installed, I can put the new leaf springs in, and then run new metal brake lines. Once that’s done it “should” be a driver.. Which means I can change gears and focus on adding AC, the sliding sunroof kit, new carpet and NOS seat upholstery. Getting there!
Last edited by mbstude; 04-02-2023, 10:46 AM.Comment
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I had every intention of finished up the brake system rebuild today, but cutting a big hole in the roof seemed more fun.
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Matthew,
It seems you are now the official "sky top" expert.Comment
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I don’t know about “expert”. The manufacturer offers a handful of really good “how to” videos, and I learned a few tricks when doing the ‘63 a couple of years ago that made this one go a lot easier.Originally posted by Buzzard View Post
When I added the sunroof to the ‘63, it made the car 1000% more fun to drive. In the end, the bright gold paint started wearing on me (I like colors that are more understated), and I didn’t like being confined to back roads with the OHV 6. Rather than repaint and repower the car, it went to a new home while I told myself I’d do a V8 Lark with a sunroof sooner or later.
The friend I bought this ‘61 from actually owns another ‘61 Lark four door with a factory Skytop sunroof.. But he won’t sell me that one.
Attached FilesLast edited by mbstude; 04-25-2023, 01:39 AM.Comment
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This past weekend’s update:
Installed new rear leaf springs and finished up what was left of the brake system rebuild. Only thing left on that is shaping new metal brake lines. Once that’s done, I need to drain the rear axle and replace the pinion seal and cover gasket.. And then the car should be a “driver”.
I still had a few things to install under the hood; radiator, voltage regulator, etc. Got all of that done and started the engine for the first time since hanging the front sheetmetal in place. I ran it through the gears and up to about 60 MPH on jack stands. I think I’m gonna like having a Stude with a floor shift.
Getting close to the next “phase”. Once the mechanical bits are sorted, l’ll install the AC, put in the carpeting and NOS seat upholstery, buff the paint, and start driving it.
Last edited by mbstude; 05-01-2023, 04:28 AM.Comment
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