Firewall power brake mounting

[don samborski]

Has anyone ever added the power brake booster firewall mounted brake systems advertised to replace the single systems and get rid of the hydrovac antiquated system..

[64V-K7]

Did one on a GT Hawk using 63 Lark components. Project was result of not getting desired performance after changing disc brake systems. Not quick nor easy, but works much better than what I could get out of the original system.

[don samborski]

I was referring to the after market systems to use with non disc brakes.

Did one on a GT Hawk using 63 Lark components. Project was result of not getting desired performance after changing disc brake systems. Not quick nor easy, but works much better than what I could get out of the original system.

[sweetolbob]

Not good enough to know when the switch to firewall mount was made but I'm pretty sure yours is mounted under the floor. If so, you will need to reinforce the firewall quite a bit to stop flexing.

Not what you asked but when I converted my 54K to a firewall mount, I used an 89 IROC boosted dual master cylinder but had to modify the fender liner do to the larger size of the booster. I also went pretty jiggy with some 3/16" plate to stiffen the entire area.

So in summary: firewall flex and booster clearance should be accounted for with this install.

[64V-K7]

I was referring to the after market systems to use with non disc brakes.

One of the iterations of the job I did was to order a 'brake pedal / booster Kit" from some speed shop. What arrived looked like it belonged in a Peterbilt 579. Totally too large for a GT Hawk. So the thought process went to the latest type install in a Lark. The 63 suspended pedal components have everything needed to do the install but had to be modified Shortened) to fit under the GT dash. The firewall side components were discarded for a 'universal mount' which came with a double diaphragm booster. A single diaphragm unit is too large (diameter) to fit under the Hawk hood line, given where the pedal actuator rod comes through. I left the old frame system in place, even the master cylinder by disconnecting the pedal and dropping it onto the floor.
Also what Bob said about reinforcing the Hawk firewall. I used .1875, T-6 aircraft aluminum plate on both sides of the firewall and it's still a little flexy,but works great.

[studegary]

Not good enough to know when the switch to firewall mount was made but I'm pretty sure yours is mounted under the floor. If so, you will need to reinforce the firewall quite a bit to stop flexing.

ALL C/K bodies (Hawks) had a frame mounted (under the floor) brake master cylinder.
Lark style bodys were changed to firewall mount with the 1961 model year.
I have owned a K body with a firewall mounted master cylinder, but I did not do that conversion.

[StudebakerGene]

As an alternative, you might want to consider hydro boost off your power steering, (that's is if you have power steering,) I'm in the process of converting my Champ P/U next week. I have the floor mounted pedals as well. I did a conversion on another Champ P/U and it was "painful" due to the curvature of the firewall, I had to build a spacer for the backside of the booster to accommodate the curvature difference and then there was the pedal mounting and firewall re-reinforcement...hence the reason I'm going with the Hydro boost, no big "clunky" power booster and master cylinder getting in the way...JMHO

[cobraman428]

I have put power boosters on three of my coupes. 53 commander, 54 Champ and 60 hawk. I used the same booster, master cylinder, bracket and hanging pedals as comes on the mustang II fox body. Mounts perfect. The only modification is the brake pedal needed to be modified and re-welded due to swing and length. I continue to run drum brakes at all 4 corners of the cars. The system works perfect. I found on my 53, the proportioning valve (pressure reducer) was not needed. Will likely someday remove it from my 54. The system works perfectly fine. A considerably large hole must be drilled through the firewall for the booster using a hole saw (maybe 3" ...cant remember) along with 4 - 1/2" mounting holes. Measure multiple times cut once because due to the booster with the master cylinder length... if not set properly will hit the bottom of the hood if not accurate. The same booster/master cylinder can be bought from Cardone if your looking for a new unit but will need the hanging pedal and bracket and of course vacuum hose. I have the part number somewhere. Again, could not be happier to do away with the master cylinder beneath the floor board. If you do it, do at your risk unless you have some mechanical experience. Now, installing the hanging clutch pedal is a whole another thread topic.

[Warren Webb]

Perhaps Studebaker didn't convert the Hawks to a suspended pedal setup due to their having fiberglass dashboards? Larks & Champs had metal dash's & along with a reinforcement plate on the firewall it provided enough to strengthen the pedal bracket.

[karterfred88]

Perhaps Studebaker didn't convert the Hawks to a suspended pedal setup due to their having fiberglass dashboards? Larks & Champs had metal dash's & along with a reinforcement plate on the firewall it provided enough to strengthen the pedal bracket.

I don't think so, Avanti's dash and firewall are fiberglass-and flex nicely but still work. I'm sure it was due to cost and thoughts that the old c/k body style was being discontinued anyway-why bother.

[Mike Van Veghten]

WHY...do you need "power" brakes ?
Just get the correct piston size for your system, then you don't need boosters, even with disc brakes.

Those big ugly things were/are a cheap way out for the manufacturers to keep their master cylinder inventory down to one or two for a full line of systems.
My 54 wagon, under-floor master cylinder, four wheel disc brakes, no power booster...a two toe push on the pedal..! Actually two 54's with a similar system, no power on either.

Mike

[AlexM]

Since I was doing away with the stock steering, I welded reinforcing plate across the whole area. I don't remember the thickness of the metal I used. Maybe 1-1/2 or two times as thick as the existing firewall.
You can see from the weld marks how wide I went. I had the booster and pedal assembly from an 87 Cutlass Cierra. I modified the bracket to attach to the steel crossbar and also to bolt to the cowl in the area hidden when the hood is closed.

[1954]

I have put power boosters on three of my coupes. 53 commander, 54 Champ and 60 hawk. I used the same booster, master cylinder, bracket and hanging pedals as comes on the mustang II fox body. Mounts perfect. The only modification is the brake pedal needed to be modified and re-welded due to swing and length. I continue to run drum brakes at all 4 corners of the cars. The system works perfect. I found on my 53, the proportioning valve (pressure reducer) was not needed. Will likely someday remove it from my 54. The system works perfectly fine. A considerably large hole must be drilled through the firewall for the booster using a hole saw (maybe 3" ...cant remember) along with 4 - 1/2" mounting holes. Measure multiple times cut once because due to the booster with the master cylinder length... if not set properly will hit the bottom of the hood if not accurate. The same booster/master cylinder can be bought from Cardone if your looking for a new unit but will need the hanging pedal and bracket and of course vacuum hose. I have the part number somewhere. Again, could not be happier to do away with the master cylinder beneath the floor board. If you do it, do at your risk unless you have some mechanical experience. Now, installing the hanging clutch pedal is a whole another thread topic.

Do you have any under hood and under dash pics of this conversion on your 54?