Engine test stand construction

[jclary]

Hey folks, I have posted regarding this subject before. It has been some time. Instead of digging up an old thread, and having to wade through old posts that don't address my current concerns, I thought I'd start a new thread. Last week, I drove up to Virginia and picked up this 232 V8 from Pete Rutledge (R Pete here on the forum). Besides having a fun "road-trip," I had a great time meeting Pete, his lovely wife, and got to see his pristine '53, and '57 Corvettes that share garage space with his '54 Studebaker Coupe.

Pete helped me load the engine in the back of my truck. Upon returning home, "off loading" it was not so quick or easy. Anyway, I managed to get it off my truck and onto one of those small Harbor Freight/Northern Tool light duty utility trailer frames. I have used this little trailer as a base for an engine test stand in the past. Previously, I had a flat head six installed, complete with a radiator, gauges, so that I could run the engine. For "tinkering" fun, that arrangement worked out pretty good.
Since then, I removed the six cylinder engine. I installed two "C" channel rails and mounted an engine stand on the trailer. You know the kind, "Engine Stand" where you bolt the engine block for disassembly/reassembly. That is quite different than an "Engine Test Stand," where you mount an assembled engine, complete, in a manner that it can be run, tuned, etc. before transferring it into a vehicle. So, now I have removed that engine and stand, and placed this 232 V8 on a temporary wooden pallet until I can fabricate a metal cradle assembly to make it a true "Test Stand."

Here comes my question(s)...What would you consider the ideal working height? How 'bout motor mounts? My plan is to weld up some kind of motor mounts that can slide front to back between those "C" channel rails. The reason for that is that I intend to mount the bellhousing and transmission on the engine at some point. I would like to adjust the entire assembly over the axle to maintain weight distribution balance. For example, currently, the engine with no flywheel, is pretty well balanced slightly forward of the wheels on the temporary wooden cradle it sits in. If I began installing a flywheel, clutch, pressure plate, bellhousing, Transmission...the trailer would flip backwards. So...I need to make it adjustable front to back. In addition to working height, I also want to build the test stand where I can remove and replace the oil pan "in place." That means the oil pan will have to clear the oil pump pick-up tube and filter screen assembly.

Some of the engine transmission assemblies use two motor mount points on the front, and the rear is either on the bellhousing, or transmission...thus, a three point mounting system. Since I plan to use the engine in a truck, I notice that my "parts truck" engine is a "four point" mounting system, with two engine mounts up front and two in the rear.

So...those of you with engine test stands, what are your working heights? If you could change what you have now, what would you like to change? If you have pictures, share them. Right now, I'm in the "thinking it through" stage. I plan to install factory engine mounts, and cut and weld angle iron, perhaps square tubing, to get me from the "C" channel rails up to the engine mounts. Getting the assemblies to be a practical working height, sufficient strength, and oriented to be out of the way for access...is the challenge.

[StudeRich]

How about chest high for the top of the Valve covers, sounds good to me to avoid bending over for Valve Adjustments, Tune Ups minor installations etc.

You will need support room for the Bell Housing and Rear Engine Mounts so you can install a Starter and run it.

[DEEPNHOCK]

Grab your torque wrench.
Hold it out like you are torquing head bolts (without stooping or bending).
That height.

[jclary]

Grab your torque wrench.
Hold it out like you are torquing head bolts (without stooping or bending).
That height.

That's a good suggestion. It also serves to remind me to build it strong enough. When I had the six cylinder on it. I had gotten impatient to run the engine, cut some corners, and constructed the mounts using some old machinery feet. I had that engine staying in place mainly by its weight and a few pieces of dog chain.

I have one of those flimsy Northern Tool engine cradles made for a Small Block Chevy. They might work good enough to keep an engine sitting upright on a shop floor, but don't fit a Studebaker engine, and certainly not for a running engine test stand. However, the construction concept could serve as a pattern to adapt and modify to work with a Studebaker. I'll have to gather up my scrap angle iron and square tubing to begin a "mock-up.

As with a lot of these projects...the trick is to make it strong enough without "over-building" it into an unwieldy heavy pile of crap that ends up more "in the way" than useful.

[Colgate Studebaker]

I agree with Jeff on the torque wrench angle, but also consider that you'll want to adjust timing and carburetor stuff once you fire it up. Bill

[SScopelli]

I'll get pictures of my engine build up and test stand. As you can see from the standard Harbor Freight ones that they bolt to the back where the bell housing is, so you can not put the flywheel and bell housing on it while on this stand

The one I made has two pivots, one on each side of the engine about at the lower deck height. This way the engine is flipped over like a pancake and not rotated.

The base is rather large because the engine sits about 4' up, and don't want that tipping over while under construction. Also the base is useful when torquing stuff down and used as a good foot hold to give you leverage.

I use it for several engine types, including Ford Y blocks. I just have to make mounting bars for each engine types. The Studebaker bars affix to the front mount and uses two bell housing bolt holes. I set the center of rotation a little behind the second cylinders to offset the weight of flywheel and bell housing weight.

When all done, it can be run-in on the stand.

Also I posted another engine stand I built to move around the engine, and I can run it on..

Click here to go to the post ===^
See the video below...
http://vid1286.photobucket.com/album...pstqj7ewbb.mp4

[Mrs K Corbin]

I don't think I would do it like the first picture.... (How you gonna start it with the bell-housing and starter AWOL?)
also way too high and might tip.

[jclary]

I don't think I would do it like the first picture.... (How you gonna start it with the bell-housing and starter AWOL?)
also way too high and might tip.

The first pic is merely an example of what uses I've made of this little trailer. It was never intended for use as a "test" stand. The reason it is mounted this way was due to the fact that the engine was out in a dirt floor barn along with a vintage shop lift. I mounted it for the convenience of towing it to another dirt floor pole building over rough terrain. Since then, I've acquired another engine, and bought (off craigslist) another, more modern, folding engine hoist for less than half price of a new one.

As I stated in the initial post, there is a huge difference in a simple engine "stand"...and a "Test-Stand."