Art Morrison built chassis to suit C/K

[sweetolbob]

On a few other sites that I administer, I stick the thread. And it is always there for later reference.
Packardhawk58, that is a very cool motor ! !

PMS, it looks like you do nice work. Would it be possible to have you post a few pictures of your efforts in a separate thread with a descriptive header. It could make finding them easier in the future and helpful to more people.

Bob

[TrickyRick]

Morrison frames are pretty cool and "interesting" looking.
I need to do a little computer modeling to understand what the extra rails mounted inboard are contributing.

Have you weighed it?

Some of the crossmembers appear to be only tack welded. Have you compared to other Morrison frames to see if maybe it was still in construction?

Morison does not finish the front and rear crossmember so you can adjust as needed.

It probably weighs twice as much as an OEM frame, but it's 10 times less noodley!

[packardHawk58]

Certainly, but why not keep it in this thread for everyone's reference?

Ok Rick or Steve, I have some questions for you.
What width is the 9" you used, flange to flange or axle face to axle face.
Tyre width on rear.
Backspace on your rims.
The triangulated 4 links, would I have to buy from Art?
Your lower and top arms
stub axles,
rotors and hubs
caliphers...I don't need Wilwood,
coil overs front...what size/weight to suit a C/K
coil overs rear
steering rack
front sway bar.
Do I have to purchase all of these parts from Art or can they be sourced from places like Summit Racing?
I am not concerned about fitting the body to the Art frame cause that part I can do and looking forward to building it, I just need to know where to source the parts required.

[packardHawk58]

[TrickyRick]

That's nice until the first corner I take and all the bondo cracks! I especially like the flush glass, I plan to do that with mine.

[TrickyRick]

Ok Rick or Steve, I have some questions for you.
What width is the 9" you used, flange to flange or axle face to axle face.
Tyre width on rear.
Backspace on your rims.
The triangulated 4 links, would I have to buy from Art?
Your lower and top arms
stub axles,
rotors and hubs
caliphers...I don't need Wilwood,
coil overs front...what size/weight to suit a C/K
coil overs rear
steering rack
front sway bar.
Do I have to purchase all of these parts from Art or can they be sourced from places like Summit Racing?
I am not concerned about fitting the body to the Art frame cause that part I can do and looking forward to building it, I just need to know where to source the parts required.

I'll try to get you the measurements.
Mine came as a kit with everything so I cant spec shocks and springs.

[TrickyRick]

Not going over the top with late model chev power like you guys, just a blown Studie engine with a o/drive trans.

Cool motor, I'd rather be blown than injected!


Psssst. Alt belt goes on first! :^)

[Dan Timberlake]

Hi T-Rick,

In the image in Post 15 it looks like 2 of the 3 crossmembers connecting the inner rails are just tack welded.
If they are made of rectangular tube, If nothing else that would leave them vulnerable to catching and holding an inch or so of water.

IH Scout owners are familiar with what happens down the road when a closed sway back frame member has water and dirt entry holes up high.

http://forum.ih8mud.com/proxy.php?image=http%3A%2F%2Fi109.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fn46%2F83BJ60%2Fframe%2520repair%2Fdriver-side-rot.jpg&hash=46741e8e25302c14dcf9a4fbb58c855b

http://forum.ih8mud.com/proxy.php?image=http%3A%2F%2Fi109.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fn46%2F83BJ60%2Fframe%2520repair%2Fpassenger-side-rot.jpg&hash=e1a2239561320cb86d2fcd7c591a747d

[TrickyRick]

Ok Rick or Steve, I have some questions for you.
What width is the 9" you used, flange to flange or axle face to axle face.

flange to flange with discs 54 1/4

Tyre width on rear.

285/40/17 on a 10" wheel 64 1/4 outside to outside of tire

Backspace on your rims.

looks like 5 1/2

The triangulated 4 links, would I have to buy from Art?

No

Your lower and top arms

A/M

stub axles, (spindle?)

Wilwood? A/M

rotors and hubs
caliphers...I don't need Wilwood,

coil overs front...what size/weight to suit a C/K
coil overs rear
steering rack
front sway bar. rear sway bar

^^^^^^^^^A/M^^^^^^^^^

Do I have to purchase all of these parts from Art or can they be sourced from places like Summit Racing?

You can buy from whoever. What to buy would be the next question.

I just need to know where to source the parts required.

I can't give you part#'s or application. Morrison spec'd & supplied it all.

I did not start this project and only had marginal input up to this point

[ProMetalShop]

Hi Brian
the upper and lower control arms would be best if purchased from Morrison. Before that, you would want the stock tracking width. Which many here have that info. The two Studes I'm involved in the shop, one is a gasser (Jason's) , and the other (Sony's) is closer to stock (but t hot rod des) and the rear drum to drum measurements I can get. The front is aftermarket and the track width may not be factory. Morrison will be able to tell you what the width will be with his control arms. I will try to get the info of of Sonys this week.
Tricky Rick has about summed up what you need, so let's see where Sony's may differ.

[ProMetalShop]

PMS, it looks like you do nice work. Would it be possible to have you post a few pictures of your efforts in a separate thread with a descriptive header. It could make finding them easier in the future and helpful to more people.

Bob

Bob, I would be more than happy to post some of my metal work, with hopes that it may help in some way. Be warned, I do get descriptive....

[Studebaker-Buick]

Without getting too personal, what is the rough cost of one of these Morrison frames? $5k? $10k? $15k?
I imagine they build them to order as the order is received. If some finish work is left to the customer(such as no front cross member or rear suspension mounting points) I wonder what cost level they'd be looking at? Basically just the main frame members and structural crossmembers without suspension details.

Thanks.
Wayne

[swvalcon]

I'am sure it's not a CASO frame by any means.

[48skyliner]

You will have a nice front suspension, seems like a shame to compromise on the rear suspension, assuming this is for street driving. If ride quality matters, I would certainly consider independent rear suspension. Of course Art Morrison will sell you a kit for about $10k, and it is good for pretty high horsepower. But assuming you will be running no more than 400 hp, you could do what we did with my 48 Champion and on the 68 Mustang we recently upgraded - use a Nissan rear suspension. We bought a unit at the local pick-and-pull from an Infiniti J30, complete from the viscous limited slip to the disc brakes, for $250. It is all mounted on a subfame that bolts under the frame with 4 bolts, and will probably all fit under the frame you have without any cutting. The coilover shock struts are very long, so you probably will have to get some smaller ones like we did, but everything you need is well under $1k. The ratio is 3.9, so you need overdrive for highway driving, and the tuner guys say the diff is good for at least 400 hp. These have 5 by 4.5 bolt pattern. The photo is my 48 Champion chassis, actually a Skyline rear suspension, which is very similar to the Infiniti.

You can make a solid rear axle handle very well, or you can make it have a smooth ride. There is a good reason why the Jags, BMWs, and other high class cars have IRS. People who have driven my Champion and the Mustang are very impressed with the ride and handling.

[Pat Dilling]

You will have a nice front suspension, seems like a shame to compromise on the rear suspension, assuming this is for street driving. If ride quality matters, I would certainly consider independent rear suspension. Of course Art Morrison will sell you a kit for about $10k, and it is good for pretty high horsepower. But assuming you will be running no more than 400 hp, you could do what we did with my 48 Champion and on the 68 Mustang we recently upgraded - use a Nissan rear suspension. We bought a unit at the local pick-and-pull from an Infiniti J30, complete from the viscous limited slip to the disc brakes, for $250. It is all mounted on a subfame that bolts under the frame with 4 bolts, and will probably all fit under the frame you have without any cutting. The coilover shock struts are very long, so you probably will have to get some smaller ones like we did, but everything you need is well under $1k. The ratio is 3.9, so you need overdrive for highway driving, and the tuner guys say the diff is good for at least 400 hp. These have 5 by 4.5 bolt pattern. The photo is my 48 Champion chassis, actually a Skyline rear suspension, which is very similar to the Infiniti.

You can make a solid rear axle handle very well, or you can make it have a smooth ride. There is a good reason why the Jags, BMWs, and other high class cars have IRS. People who have driven my Champion and the Mustang are very impressed with the ride and handling.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]50030[/ATTACH]

Wow that is very interesting. Would love to see more pictures of it. Thanks for sharing