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1947-1952 Starlight back window trim

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  • #16
    Originally posted by TWChamp View Post
    It's too bad you don't live closer to Wilmar, Minnesota. This looks like it might have what you need, and is at Rohner's junk yard.[ATTACH=CONFIG]40781[/ATTACH]
    That is the trim alright I wish I was closer

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    • #17
      Rob,
      Your draft is pretty good to give an idea of the clips. I tried to do a real quick drawing of the three clips from different angles. Each has a "lip" on each side to catch the edge of the moulding; also a slight notch to keep them in place on the indent in the moulding. Left are parallelogram in one direction and right in the other. Center is pretty rectangular. In addition, the nutserts are also slightly angled on all. Your draft would be a good start on fabrication if you make them wide enough to bend and trim to application. The good news is, if you can make something that works, no one will ever see it. The originals were of spring steel but still rusted. That's why I made mine from stainless.
      I also checked the '47-'50 catalog and they are not in there as well.

      Click image for larger version

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      Last edited by rockne10; 01-28-2015, 04:13 PM.
      Brad Johnson,
      SDC since 1975, ASC since 1990
      Pine Grove Mills, Pa.
      '33 Rockne 10, '51 Commander Starlight. '53 Commander Starlight
      '56 Sky Hawk in process

      Comment


      • #18
        [QUOTE=rockne10;897667]Rob,
        Your draft is pretty good to give an idea of the clips. I tried to do a real quick drawing of the three clips from different angles. Each has a "lip" on each side to catch the edge of the moulding; also a slight notch to keep them in place on the indent in the moulding. Left are parallelogram in one direction and right in the other. Center is pretty rectangular. In addition, the nutserts are also slightly angled on all. Your draft would be a good start on fabrication if you make them wide enough to bend and trim to application. The good news is, if you can make something that works, no one will ever see it. The originals were of spring steel but still rusted. That's why I made mine from stainless.
        I also checked the '47-'50 catalog and they are not in there as well.

        Click image for larger version

Name:	back glass clips.jpg
Views:	1
Size:	32.5 KB
ID:	1695198Thanks for that drawing and description about each one. I wish I could free hand like that but I have to use a computer. Anyways its starting to look like I'm going to have to make them. A friend of mine that works at a body shop said he might have something that might work. If it does then I will post about it so others can benefit from it when they have the same problem

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        • #19
          I usually don't go to junk yards in the winter, but if I come across the glass and trim, as I pictured above, what is the procedure to remove it without bending the trim or hurting the glass. I'd also like to save the rubber if it's good. What tools do I need? Do I use any lubricant, wire, string, pry tools, etc? Thanks

          If the glass is cloudy at the edge, is it still worth pulling? And, what should be the most I'd pay the junkyard per section? I'd be pulling this for someone that needs it, so I really don't want it setting on my shelf and have money tied up in it.

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          • #20
            You start on the in side. If I remember right the screws go all the way through. There is a trim piece inside the car that has three screws in it. You take the screws out and the trim piece will come off with it. The stainless stays in place because the rubber holds it in place. There might me another set of screws behind the trim on the in side but I honestly don't remember and I don't believe there is. Anyways once all the screws r out get something flat to slid behind the stainless and they will just pop off. As for saving the rubber good luck. Almost everyone I have talked to ends up cutting the window out. I even found my self doing that on my car once I found out Studebaker international sells the seals for the back window.

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            • #21
              Tom,
              If you are removing this at a salvage yard, unscrew trim from the inside with a Phillips screwdriver. Save inner reveal trim, screws and outer stainless. CUT THE RUBBER ! Unless it has already been recently replaced and is flexibly new, it is unusable. Your goal is to save the glass. New rubber seals are available and of excellent quality. The glass is available new so, if it's not too cloudy, I would ask the yard if they would pay you to take it off their hands. Just kidding! It's worth something to them but, if you don't buy it...who will?
              Last edited by rockne10; 01-28-2015, 11:53 PM.
              Brad Johnson,
              SDC since 1975, ASC since 1990
              Pine Grove Mills, Pa.
              '33 Rockne 10, '51 Commander Starlight. '53 Commander Starlight
              '56 Sky Hawk in process

              Comment


              • #22
                I didn't have any clips i went thru 3 different bins and none look like that. Sorry
                101st Airborne Div. 326 Engineers Ft Campbell Ky.

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                • #23
                  I should correct that drawing. I was going from a twenty-year-old memory. The barrel of the nutsert should be on the other side of the clip. The bent clip edges pull the trim towards the body but the nutsert barrel needs to face out, protruding in to the hollow of the stainless. Hope that makes sense.
                  Brad Johnson,
                  SDC since 1975, ASC since 1990
                  Pine Grove Mills, Pa.
                  '33 Rockne 10, '51 Commander Starlight. '53 Commander Starlight
                  '56 Sky Hawk in process

                  Comment

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