Battery Cable 101

[ReggieFoote]

For those of you that change-out or replace your battery cable, make sure you get a cable for 6 volts if you have the 6-volt positive ground system

Reason is, when I had my 1951 Henry J (also 6-volt positive ground) a few months back, I replaced the "live" cable. Starting was laboring. Someone pointed out that my cable was for a 12-volt system. Changed to an actual 6-volt cable.

Starting/turnover was super fast in my 6-volt system.

So, the lesson is when replacing the NEGATIVE battery cable, make sure you buy the largest diameter cable otherwise smaller diameter 12 volt cable won't provide enough JUICE to get the most out of your battery.

Lastly, for info, when shopping for a battery cable, you'll find most are for 12-volts.

Reggie

[jclary]

Good reminder Reggie. For those of us who have been around the forum for a long time...this is a familiar discussion. However, it is something that needs to be repeated. Another topic that often follows this conversation is, "where to buy" a big enough battery cable. Besides the businesses targeting vintage cars, businesses like farm equipment (tractor repair services), commercial truck equipment services, welding suppliers, and, if you are lucky enough to have an independent auto parts supplier, with knowledgeable folks...all are potential local sources.

Another source, for those with patience, and the time, is to utilize our Studebaker parts vendors, like Studebaker International, and others. If you go to the SDC website, they provide a list and links.

Again, a timely reminder that deserves repeating...thanks.

[Warren Webb]

Since there isn't a ground cable from the battery to the body of our cars I like to include one. It's not a bad need but it cant hurt since the body ground comes only from body bolts. I like the cable found on a lot of earlier Mercedes, usually found from the bell housing area to the body.

[ReggieFoote]

As an addendum to my earlier posting concerning using the wrong battery cable, a friend who's a whiz with anything automotive made an aircraft grade cable for the Henry J. I couldn't believe how "fast" the engine turned-over with the bigger cable. Something so simple can be so overlooked.

Reggie

[Mrs K Corbin]

Welding cable works too....
I've always been told that the cables need to be as big as "Goucho's Cigar!"

[Lou Van Anne]

Yup, that's correct....correct cable makes a world of difference.

[royvaldez]

Thanks for the information.

[rockinhawk]

Most cables for Diesel Truck applications are of the larger diameter. My friend had a problem with his 55 Commander starting and we used a cable from a 3500 Diesel dually that conects the two batterys togather. With 2 cables coming from 1 Terminal,we grounded it to the starter and the body.

[Bob Andrews]

[Cornbinder89]

I'll add one thing to what has been said. I don't have a lot of experience on Stude's but one thing I've notice that either the OEM does (IHC was famous for it) and can happen later in the life of the vehicle is the ground cable (be it positive or negative) often get attached to the frame, and a braided "jumper" is used to ground the engine. This saves a little on copper but adds more connections and cables to fail. Often the braided strap starts to fail and there is high resistance in the strap. I've diagnosed hard starting by grabbing the strap while someone trys to crank it. Often I end up with a burn on my hand, the strap is so hot! On my six volt stuff (and 12 volt big trucks) I run the ground connection right to the starter. It is, afterall, the one thing that draws more then everything else combined. Then I ground the body and frame with braided straps. By doing it this way you have only 2 cabled and 4 connections between the battery and starter. I prefer 000 gauge cable but that can be hard to bend and route on lighter vehicles, never less then 00 gauge. I also prefer battery cable over welding cable. Welding cable is made for flexability, which is needed in welding, but makes the conductors more prone to breaking over time. It really needs to be supported to prevent it from breaking the conductors. It can be a lifesaver when trying to fit 000 gauge in a tight area with lots of bends however. For straight easy runs battery cable is best.

[Green 53]

When I still had my battery business I went real big and used 2/0 welding cable. Worked great

Denny L

[55 56 PREZ 4D]

"The shorter the run of cable, the better."
1/0 min for 2' or shorter. [about the thickness of a Sharpie marker]
2/0 min for anything longer. 3/0 min for very long.
A fully charged battery is essential.
A thorough check of the charging system should be done.
There are 6 volt neg or pos ground alternators available.
Begin with the generator internals then work your way out from there.
-clean
-good brushes and springs
-good bushings [properly oiled]
Regulator "regulating" as it should.
All !!!, wire connections clean [bright and shiny, no rust, paint, oil or dirt]
And tight.
All !!!, wire and terminals free of corrosion. It's the corrosion INSIDE the insulation that will get you.
But just the change to the correct size battery cables will make an astounding difference.

[wayne]

I have got cables at Tractor Supply store . Old tractors used 6 volt

[Xcalibur]

As noted, welding cable affords many more options. For example, when I moved the battery to the trunk of my Avanti 20 years ago I used double-zero welding cable for the "hot" embedded in a heater hose for additional insulation along the length of the frame. It has always cranked like the battery is adjacent to the starter solenoid.

[Flashback]

I agree on the large cable, and use it on 6 and 12 volt cars. The ground to body is something I always do. The ground to starter is also a good idea. We do have a ground from frame to engine that should also stay in place, IMHO. The braided flat has worked for me for years. I am just putting this back on The Saturday Night Special. ( It's not connected, in photo, because I haven't ground paint off at connection point). This is important on all connections.