Studebaker Basics...Looking at Buying My First

[Erik Smith]

I have been looking for a non-big three car for a while, and I am seriously considering a 1965 Commander. What do I need to look out for? What's good, what's bad? Links to learning opportunities? I have spent some time "Googling", but any and all advice would be appreciated! Of I do manage to get this car, or another, I look forward to being a part of the community.

[RareBird]

Welcome to the forum. You already have one advantage going for you, living on the west coast you can find a solid car minus all the rust that we in the "rust belt" have to deal with. A good portion of restoration gets eaten up with body work.
Plenty of good people here to help you with your quest. I'm sure that you will be pleased that you chose a Studebaker.

[rockinhawk]

Going with a 65 means you will have a Chevy engine. Totally different from anything Studebaker built, but parts are easier and cheaper.
The rest of the car is All Studebaker. Check out the A-frame bushings and center pivot for loose motion.

[Kurt]

My first Stude was a 66 Commander. My opinion, for what it's worth, is the 65-66 are the best"starter" Studebakers. They are still quite a few around. They are inexpensive. They have the Chevrolet engine. The big issue with these cars is rust. Most of the late Studebakers were pretty unloved and while mentioned that their seems to be a few around most are rusty or beat up. Mine was no exception. However it was a great learning experience and a very fun car.

[sals54]

I have been looking for a non-big three car for a while, and I am seriously considering a 1965 Commander. What do I need to look out for? What's good, what's bad? Links to learning opportunities? I have spent some time "Googling", but any and all advice would be appreciated! Of I do manage to get this car, or another, I look forward to being a part of the community.

Erik, Sounds like a plan. There are plenty of Stude folks there in Spokane that can help you. Look for the Studebaker Drivers Club in your local area. You will find those people to be delightful to help you in your quest for info and parts. Good luck.

[Erik Smith]

Thanks for the replies.
Yeah, the Chevy engine was a bit of an incentive - cost and availability of parts.
Plus I love the simple lines...

[StudeRich]

'64 to '66's

Good to have you in the "Fold" Erik. If you join the International Organization you will get a first year discount and you will truly enjoy the Monthly Publication "Turning Wheels" that you will receive, and you will be able to connect with Local Members there in the Spokane area as well.

We have a lot more Members over here on the "Other side of the Mountain" in our 5 Chapters, where you may want to visit some of our events over here as well.

The link to the Main Page is on the Med. Blue line at the top of these pages, then click "ABOUT", then "Membership" and then "Join" to get the deal, you'll be glad you did.

When looking for '64 to '66 Lark Type Models, my suggestion is avoid the urge to "save on fuel' by going with a 6 Cyl. there is a way lower "Fun Factor" with those, no noticeable savings on fuel and less Durability than the Dependable Stude. 259 or 289 V8 in '64's or the 283 McKinnon Motors GM Engines in '65 & '66 Models, just my personal experience and opinion of course.

Also, if I were you I would not kick any Daytona 2 Door Sport Sedans or Cruisers to the curb either!

[Pat Dilling]

If my information is correct, the Pacific CanAm Zone meet is just down the road from you in Post Falls, ID in mid August. That will be a great opportunity to meet Studebaker folks in your area. Welcome to the forum and hopefully to Studebakerdom. I am sure there will be a car corral at the Zone meet where you can find Studebakers for sale if you have not found one by then.

[GTCruiser]

Be aware of a common rust issue at the rear of the front fenders, just before the doors/cowl. If there is no outside rust there the fenders/cowl were probably already repaired/replaced or you have an original car that has escaped this. If it is there expect this to probably be the more significant bodywork needed.

[1962larksedan]

Be aware of a common rust issue at the rear of the front fenders, just before the doors/cowl. If there is no outside rust there the fenders/cowl were probably already repaired/replaced or you have an original car that has escaped this. If it is there expect this to probably be the more significant bodywork needed.

My 1962 Lark (similar body to a 1963-66 below the beltline/window sills) did have some rust at where the batwing bolted just inboard of the sills and it was a native Phx, Az. car.