I suppose the biggest hurdle is that you can't sell something this expensive all at once, so you can't recoup your investment, let alone make a $$ or two, for several years. People will want them WHEN they want them, and when that expenditure fits into their restoration plan. i'm all in though, thinking perhaps the polished aluminum would be great.
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Has anyone ever made repro '53 or '54 grills? Thinking of starting a business venture.
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I sold one set of N.O.S.ones for $2400.00 (1954 style) to a restoraton shop
I have another set for sale.
They are in original Studebaker boxes.
Make a close offer.
Robert Kapteyn
studebaker@mac.com
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Originally posted by sals54 View PostThe originals are made from molded pot metal. Very hard to work with. By the looks of your moniker, you may be the one we're looking for to resolve this issue...? ? ? What are your thoughts?
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I starting to research the repair process, and finding it's needing temperatures around 350 degrees. So I'm thinking it may be a better candidate for soldering than tig. I found on the lowest setting on my welder I could easily start to see a molting start to apear. I thought I may be able to run the gap into itself but it did not look as though that was going to happen. So I jumped on here to find out more of what I was dealing with. If I had a real bad set, I would experiment a bit. I'll keep you folks informed.
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Originally posted by ProMetalShop View PostSo following this old thread, what alloy are the originals made from ? Are they a cast aluminum ? Thanks in advance
Some have been reproduced in brass that require a lot of tweaking, fitting and finishing before plating.
At this point, reproductions that fit and last could be made from just about any material that suits the purpose and is capable of receiving chrome plating, including aluminum or even plastic. If chromed plastic versions were available at a reasonable cost, they could be replaced every decade or so. As it is, having originals re-plated can run from $1000 to $2000.Brad Johnson,
SDC since 1975, ASC since 1990
Pine Grove Mills, Pa.
'33 Rockne 10, '51 Commander Starlight. '53 Commander Starlight
'56 Sky Hawk in process
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Originally posted by rockne10 View PostAs Sal indicated, they are simple pot metal, http://www.wisegeek.com/what-is-pot-metal.htm
Some have been reproduced in brass that require a lot of tweaking, fitting and finishing before plating.
At this point, reproductions that fit and last could be made from just about any material that suits the purpose and is capable of receiving chrome plating, including aluminum or even plastic. If chromed plastic versions were available at a reasonable cost, they could be replaced every decade or so. As it is, having originals re-plated can run from $1000 to $2000.
chrome. Side grill bezel bezels usually cost about $400. ea to re-plate.
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That cast zinc does not take a lot of heat. Not sure it can be brazed or welded at all. To fill in pits, what is done is to get the old plating off down to base metal and then grind out the pits with a dremel or some bead blasting so the corrosion is gone. Then they plate over the part and fill the pits in with soldering on the copper and grind/sand that flush. More copper coats and buffing after that until the surface level is restored before it gets the actual chrome plating. All that work is done by hand which is why restoring these is so $$$$$$
I have a crusty spare pair of these in case the unthinkable were to happen to my '53. One has a chunk broke out of it and I acquired part of another one that was totally trashed (from old wreck) but that missing pc is intact. The thought being that perhaps it could be grafted in to make a whole one if the need arose.
Jeff in ND
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Watch out for plating aluminum! G.M. couldn't do a very good job on the wheels on the '03 Buick Regal. Many complaints on the internet about them. The inside and the inner rim on mine are almost pure aluminum and I can't find any good ones in the junkyards.- Jim
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die cast repair
Originally posted by Jeff_H View PostThat cast zinc does not take a lot of heat. Not sure it can be brazed or welded at all. To fill in pits, what is done is to get the old plating off down to base metal and then grind out the pits with a dremel or some bead blasting so the corrosion is gone. Then they plate over the part and fill the pits in with soldering on the copper and grind/sand that flush. More copper coats and buffing after that until the surface level is restored before it gets the actual chrome plating. All that work is done by hand which is why restoring these is so $$$$$$
I have a crusty spare pair of these in case the unthinkable were to happen to my '53. One has a chunk broke out of it and I acquired part of another one that was totally trashed (from old wreck) but that missing pc is intact. The thought being that perhaps it could be grafted in to make a whole one if the need arose.
Great care must be taken to
avoid putting too much heat into the item as it is being worked or item will become wavy or distorted. The initial coat of copper must be copper/cyanide to adhere to the base metal. Additional applications over copper plating or solder can be the cheaper and more common acid copper process. Copper can not be used to fill in any but the tiniest imperfections, but is like applying primer before applying spot putty. Too much copper will make the item heavy and risk poor fit.
A special cad plating must be applied to aluminum parts prior to the copper & nickel to avoid peeling.
A wise customer should ask a plater if he has the proper chemicals for the material being plated, and if he is offering a warranty or guarantee of satisfaction. After all of the work, it is common for a blister to appear on old die-cast parts after the nickel or the chrome is applied, requiring further work & more plating. It is a very unforgiving medium and many shops so not have craftsmen trained to do the work necessary to restore old, damaged or pitted die-cast parts. Welding of items of this matl are never clean or smooth, so after cracks or chips are repaired it is always necessary to copper plate & apply solder, similar to applying lead, body putty or bondo after doing the metal work on sheet metal body parts. Even on iron or cast brass, it is frequently necessary to smooth out pits & imperfections with solder before final finish is applied for show quality work.
Have a look at my web site: www.custompolishchromeplating.com for more info.
I have some cores for my plating customers & am always seeking more repairable cores. It is amazing how many repairable cores get scrapped just because they have cracks, pits or missing chips when they could be repaired & plated as good as new.Last edited by TX Rebel; 10-02-2015, 05:35 AM.
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Check out this site:
Our shop did all of the chrome work on these stunning classics. Mr Mitchell, the owner, does not like second place awards.
He turned down a 2.7 mil offer for his Lancefield Stutz from a well known late night TV show host, insisting on the $5 mil asking price.
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